sharpening problems

[Steve Bunyan]

Husky 371xp 24 inch bar

As the teeth get smaller I can't get the saw to cut straight. I sharpen by hand with a file guide but leave the rakers alone. I do my best to get the teeth all the same size but can't get a perfectly level stump. This is for residential work and the customer always wants it cut " as low as possible" and it would be nice to do it in one cut.

I'm sure that the bar is too big and maybe my sharpening skills are lacking but is there maybe something else I'm missing? The chain seems to be getting enough oil.

 

[Stumper]

The bar isn't too big-but it may have worn rails and need a bit of TLC. WHY are you leaving the rakers untouched? If you have reduced the tooth by a third and the depth gauges are unchanged you are doomed to have problems because the teeth can only bite if there is pressure on the system forcing it to cut. That pressure is bound to cock the chain in the groove and lead to crooked cuts (and all sorts of other consequences of equipment abuse). Of course it is important to have the chain equally sharp on both right and left cutters. having the teeth all the same size is desirable but far less important than most people think. What is important is to have all cutters sharp and all gauged equally.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

You must set the raker at the manuf. specified level as stumper said. Most chains are between .025 and .030.

Also as you file the chain down switch to a size smaller file. This will keep the cutter shaped properly, and you wont file into the tie straps.

A 24" bar is fine for a 371. As stumper said the bar sounds like the problem. If so it has probably screwed up the chain also. I would reserve this bar/chain to dirty wood duty.

Check to make sure the saw is oiling properly, as a weak oiling system will kill a new bar quickly.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Dressing the bar

Not setting the rakers to the right height could cause the chain to dull more quickly. When cutting edges don’t get enough bite, they can rub some and the rubbing action will cause dulling.
A also agree, the bar needs to be trued every so often. The top rails will ware unevenly and should be dressed.
There are some good tools for doing this that are not very expensive. Check the online places or your dealer.

 

[WRW]

It could be the bar, but I think " as low as possible" may be part of the problem. Cutters touching soil or even dirty wood (bark) will dull within the cut. That leaves all the cutters on the right side of the chain dull with all the cutters on the left side still sharp(er).
Semi-chisel chain is a little more forgiving in this application.
Try lowering the depth guides as others have suggested. You'll be pleased with the results.

 

[Stumper]

Bill, Good point about dulling one side in the cut. I used to struggle with the 'low as possible' stuff before I got a stump grinder. Now, 2" IS a LOW stump. If they want to mow over it lets do it right and grind it out. If they don't want the stump ground then 2"-4" is as low as I go-That last cut made lower is worth half the cost of grinding it out!

 

[tony marks]

man thats was my problem. in my case i could see the difference in angle of top plate on one side versus the other after i was done... but i couldnt see it when i was sharpening the chain. u dont by any chance have one eye thats not up to par ,and mabe have a stigmatism in it .. thats my problem .
the top riding roller guide sent to me by russ ,cured the problem... although,to my eyes at first ,,it looked like the dam roller,, had to be wrong. but it was not ,and the problem was solved.

 

[WRW]

Stumper,
You're right. Stump grinder is The Way To Go. Lacking that, Steve should factor in a sharpening when customers request a buzz cut.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I have a stigmatism - it allways messes with me when filing

 

[Tree Machine]

Here's an image of how I deal with not hitting dirt low down on a stump. This pic was a blow-over, but I use the same method on stumps when dirt is definitely going to be an issue. -TM-

 

[Tree Machine]

... and then....

-TM-