Impact gun will zip the nut right off.
Sharpening
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
- Start date
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Impact gun will zip the nut right off.
Yup,I love rim drive!Wish I could come up with one for my limbing saw.
Almost ordered a Timberline sharpener from Bailey's last night. Right at $120. plus $20. per ceramic cutter. Then I thought, $140. is $140. ($160. really with two cutters), and I really have not heard much about them, except the ceramic cutters can chip if you crank it the wrong way.
Also, there is no top angle adjustment. 30* I did find on another site an optional adapter is available to do 25*
Anybody use one?
Likes/Dislikes...
Also, there is no top angle adjustment. 30* I did find on another site an optional adapter is available to do 25*
Anybody use one?
Likes/Dislikes...
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
I really like the roller file guide husky markets. It works very well for me and is just as fast as free hand filing. Its a good way to cross the bridge from 'I cant file at all' to 'I can file all the things!' It helped me build up good muscle memory, but it does not leave much hook if you use a 7/32 on 3/8ths chain. Not a bad thing IMO, just something to consider, it still throws big fat chips and cuts quickly.
Anybody else start out sharpening just using a round file with a handle? I even made the handles from a piece of hardwood branch. You could tap the end of the file into the pith in the center of the branch. This was when I was about 13. It took a while but I can make really sharp chain freehanding. You can tell when a cutter is sharp by the feel of the file as it passes along the cutter.
I did it this way for many years and used a flat file for the rakers. This was just eyeballing all the angles except for chains marked on the top of the cutters. You can make as much or as little hook as you want.
I got fancy years later and got the simple file holders that just clamp on to the file at each end (stihl, oregon) and regulates how much hook you can produce. It irritated me that you needed different holders for 3/16 or 7/32". If found you could shim the 7/32" file holder with a match book cover, and then use a 3/16 or 5/32" file in it. Depending on the shim you can adjust how much hook you file into the cutter.
Then I got a chainsaw mill, ripping chains, and discovered all sorts of gadgets used to sharpen chains: grinders, all sorts of file guides, dremel attachments............I ended up still sharpening my milling chains by hand but used a pferd file holder to try to keep the rakers even. I broke down and got a gauge for the rakers on my crosscut chains.
Depending on how dull a chain gets, 3-5 strokes with file usually gets all the cutters sharp. Again you can tell by the feel how many strokes each cutter needs, no sense in filing more steel off a sharp cutter. To even up the cutters, I just put a couple of extra file strokes onto all the cutters that are a bit longer. The shorter cutters only get more strokes if they are still dull.
If the chain hit something, all the cutters that were damaged get filed until the top of the cutter cleans up.
I use my chains until a cutter finally breaks off, and until then they still cut well. Those chains get hung up on a nail for cutting stumps, line trees that may have metal, or very dirty wood.
I did it this way for many years and used a flat file for the rakers. This was just eyeballing all the angles except for chains marked on the top of the cutters. You can make as much or as little hook as you want.
I got fancy years later and got the simple file holders that just clamp on to the file at each end (stihl, oregon) and regulates how much hook you can produce. It irritated me that you needed different holders for 3/16 or 7/32". If found you could shim the 7/32" file holder with a match book cover, and then use a 3/16 or 5/32" file in it. Depending on the shim you can adjust how much hook you file into the cutter.
Then I got a chainsaw mill, ripping chains, and discovered all sorts of gadgets used to sharpen chains: grinders, all sorts of file guides, dremel attachments............I ended up still sharpening my milling chains by hand but used a pferd file holder to try to keep the rakers even. I broke down and got a gauge for the rakers on my crosscut chains.
Depending on how dull a chain gets, 3-5 strokes with file usually gets all the cutters sharp. Again you can tell by the feel how many strokes each cutter needs, no sense in filing more steel off a sharp cutter. To even up the cutters, I just put a couple of extra file strokes onto all the cutters that are a bit longer. The shorter cutters only get more strokes if they are still dull.
If the chain hit something, all the cutters that were damaged get filed until the top of the cutter cleans up.
I use my chains until a cutter finally breaks off, and until then they still cut well. Those chains get hung up on a nail for cutting stumps, line trees that may have metal, or very dirty wood.
Dolphus Raymond
ArboristSite Lurker
After several years of having my chains sharpened on a grinder, I too hand file now. I sharpen my saw after every use and have learned that the best way to sharpen a chain is to never let it get dull. Also, I have a depth gauge and check my rakers each time. Seems about every third sharpening I have to take them down a bit.
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Sandhill, I bought one of the electric sharpeners from TSC and loved it for awhile then I realized that my chains were getting dull faster and weren't lasting as long either. And it seemed to take more time to sharpen them than by hand. I decided to start buying my chains in bulk and files by the dozen and throw them out more often. I have bad bones and joints so I pick the days that I sharpen chains. I also don't let them get very dull and find that a few strokes is all that is needed to get them back to cutting. I bought a decent wheel for it and I still use my electric one but not very often.
Thanks for all the posts.
Post #44. I read about the first fifteen pages, then jumped to the end.
I'm again tempted to try the Timberline after reading of others good/indifferent experiences. And now Timberline has been around awhile.
I also sharpen often, but perhaps not often enough for super chisel style cutters I'm using.
Last time I sharpened I dressed the bar up, and flipped it, noticing I should have done that sooner as well.
Post #44. I read about the first fifteen pages, then jumped to the end.
I'm again tempted to try the Timberline after reading of others good/indifferent experiences. And now Timberline has been around awhile.
I also sharpen often, but perhaps not often enough for super chisel style cutters I'm using.
Last time I sharpened I dressed the bar up, and flipped it, noticing I should have done that sooner as well.
Some people really like it. You might.
If not, there is still a lot of interest in it, and you should be able to sell it in the Trading Post.
Philbert
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
.I use both a file and a grinder......sometimes depends on how many chains I have, how bad they are, or even my mood at the time....
When I use a file, I use a file no wood handle, no guide, nothing.....I get great results....
When I use a grinder, I get great results....
All comes down to how many/much you are sharpening your chains...
Bottom line, the file and the grinder are only as good as the guy operating them, period!!!!!
When I use a file, I use a file no wood handle, no guide, nothing.....I get great results....
When I use a grinder, I get great results....
All comes down to how many/much you are sharpening your chains...
Bottom line, the file and the grinder are only as good as the guy operating them, period!!!!!
sawhoss
ArboristSite Lurker
Sandhill, have a jig with extra stones. Could you pm me, I'll make you a super deal.
Been out of town for several days, and nice to be home.
Pulled the cover off the 357xp.
No nut, so I followed what I saw on several YouTube videos, pulled the plug and found TDC, pushed in a bit of clean pull starter rope.
Used a screw driver and tapped it with a hammer, reverse thread. Sweet...
New rim sprocket. The old one was worn and needed replacing, but not trashed out.
Pick up a hundred pallets in the morning and back to cutting and splitting...
And thanks Sawhoss...pretty country up that way.
Been forty years since I've been there.
right on!! Also throw away a file when it no longer cuts well. I spent too many years filing using files that were long past their service life before I learned to throw them away.
TreeswingerPerth
ArboristSite Operative
As far as I'm concerned hand filling is the way to go , I take great delight in seeing my saw fire out good chips .
I believe you get a better edge than a grinder can produce , and my own stay sharp longer than others that were machine sharpened. I always try to get Save edge files if I can , they seem to cut really well and seem to last longer .
Only my opinion , but plenty of practice will produce excellent results .
I believe you get a better edge than a grinder can produce , and my own stay sharp longer than others that were machine sharpened. I always try to get Save edge files if I can , they seem to cut really well and seem to last longer .
Only my opinion , but plenty of practice will produce excellent results .
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
My last two times out cutting (I get out for an hour or two in evenings when I can - last just last night) my bars found the dirt more than once and they both are now doing the banana cut thing. I guess tonight will be some serious filing time.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you ever ran chains that "you" personally ground, next to chains you have filed???
I am not at all trying to sound condescending....I used to think the same way....I dont cut "cookies" and have never and probably won't ever time a cut in my life...for real world cutting, you can get these chains to cut neck and neck with each other.....IMHO
Khntr85:
Not sure what your saying. Grinding is more repeatable...
I've never used a grinder. Never wanted to because...
(in no particular order)
-it seems the learning curve would burn a few chains.
-I would have to take the chain off the saw. (The thing about that is I've always found the outboard clutch a pain.)
-it would remove more cutter than necessary each time.
-what grinder do I buy???
-what wheel do I use on it?
-when is a wheel replaced?
-I would need more chains to swap out at the wood lot. (right now I have the chain on the saw, and a new one, a back up, in the box.)
Should I be looking to buy a grinder? (I'm still shooting for 100 cord this year.)
Not sure what your saying. Grinding is more repeatable...
I've never used a grinder. Never wanted to because...
(in no particular order)
-it seems the learning curve would burn a few chains.
-I would have to take the chain off the saw. (The thing about that is I've always found the outboard clutch a pain.)
-it would remove more cutter than necessary each time.
-what grinder do I buy???
-what wheel do I use on it?
-when is a wheel replaced?
-I would need more chains to swap out at the wood lot. (right now I have the chain on the saw, and a new one, a back up, in the box.)
Should I be looking to buy a grinder? (I'm still shooting for 100 cord this year.)
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
What you should do is subject to what you WANT to do. I know 15 man tree services that do not own a grinder and exclusively file. But, I also know that I like having a grinder even though I primarily file to true up chains and to deal with 5 or 10 at once.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hello sir.....first off let me say I am NOT saying one or the other is better than the other, just simply saying they compliment each other very nicely....
I heat my home and hot water with wood 6-months out of the year and do tree work on the side...I mainly cut hardwood, so I can't "half ass" sharpen a chain, or it won't last long!!!
Learning curve== yes...
Burning a whole chain, no if you can eat with a fork and knife, you can pick it up very quickly....
Grinder brand and wheel type, many options here....
Do some research, see what you think....I can guarantee you if you are doing 100 cord a year, you will find a good use for a grinder and wonder why you didn't get one years ago....if you are happy with the file after all these years, then keep at it with the file!!!
