Shaver Improvement Forum

[david78]

I had a cap on mine for awhile; what some call a shanty cap. Flat top, four large openings, one on each side. No screening. It plugged up with creosote in short order so I took it off and the furnace performed much better. I have never seen sparks coming out, even with roaring fires. I have a 4 foot extension on mine, which may be part of the reason. Also, I keep all the coals raked forward toward the grates and most of my wood isn't any longer than the distance from the door to the chimney, so there's usually not much coals/fire in the back of the firebox. I think any kind of screen or cap will require frequent cleaning and may cut down on draft.

 

[yodayoda]

John, if I remember right, you did the damper flap mod to your stove. Did you remove the adjustable flap that comes on your draft motor? If so I wonder if the extra draft you are getting is making your spark situation worse.
Last fall I was burning pine and it did make alot of sparks, but I haven't noticed as many burning birch and poplar. Just a thought, I could be wrong, I still have the flap on my stove and run it about 1/3 open, maybe I will try opening it up all the way to compare the spark situation. Or you could put some duct tape over some of the inlet on yours and see if it helps.

 

[John D]

John, if I remember right, you did the damper flap mod to your stove. Did you remove the adjustable flap that comes on your draft motor? If so I wonder if the extra draft you are getting is making your spark situation worse.
Last fall I was burning pine and it did make alot of sparks, but I haven't noticed as many burning birch and poplar. Just a thought, I could be wrong, I still have the flap on my stove and run it about 1/3 open, maybe I will try opening it up all the way to compare the spark situation. Or you could put some duct tape over some of the inlet on yours and see if it helps.

I'm sure the fully open air door is a contributing factor here,as it couldnt get that hot so fast without that much air.As it warms up I thought about just unhooking the fan,and see if the air opening is enough to hold temperature,esp since it really isnt providing much heat anymore.

 

[Fishhead]

I went through 3 fan motors on my shaver and in between motors i opened up the draft flapper all the way and yes even in winter it was enough to heat my home as long as the ashes were kept up. The only way I believe you can run a cap is if you do the tripple wall pipe mod on the stack, other than that its a task to keep the stock stack open. Mine builds up in the 6" pipe like crazy and needs a good wack once in a while. how about a homemade version like peaked roof made out of 1/8th inch steel?

 

[Windwalker7]

Anyone running their Shaver with the Ranco thermostat but without the blower mod?

How'd it work this winter?


I just ordered the Ranco and was wondering about whether I should order the solenoid and an extra blower too.

 

[John D]

Anyone running their Shaver with the Ranco thermostat but without the blower mod?

How'd it work this winter?


I just ordered the Ranco and was wondering about whether I should order the solenoid and an extra blower too.

I ran a few days the other way around,w blower mods,and stock stat,and it was horrible,huge temp fluctuations.

 

[ngzcaz]

Since the days are much warmer than a few weeks ago, I can see why a blower mod that lets just a wisp of smoke out the stack is a good idea. The smoke stinks, especially if you're burning the junk I am..

:monkey:

 

[John D]

Anybody else have there circulator pump go out yet? last week,I changed the wiring to the circulators,so they cycled with demand instead of running 24/7. It worked fine for 3 days,the 4th morning I awoke to a running oil burner,and found the indoor loop circ running fine,but the outdoor one on the Shaver DOA. I turned it off,then back on again,and it started working.So I switched the circs back to 24/7 and have been hoping for the best until i find a replacement.Anyone know how to get warranty on it?I was thinking of using a 3 speed grundfos like i have inside on the loop,but im not sure its got enough power even on high to keep up.I am not buying another Taco circ they are out of the question.Ive had 3 failures in 11 yrs on 3 zones with them.Im stuckjwith 3 of them on due to the integral 24V(or add a big relay controller).They seem to last 4-7 yrs tops.My old house (now my parents)has a grundfos,its 23 yrs old,still going strong.

 

[fletcher0780]

I've got a 3 speed grundfos on my outdoor loop cycling on demand, but It is in my basement. these pumps are not rated for outdoor use, I don't understand why everyone installs them on the OWB.

 

[John D]

I've got a 3 speed grundfos on my outdoor loop cycling on demand, but It is in my basement. these pumps are not rated for outdoor use, I don't understand why everyone installs them on the OWB.

Which 3 speed do you have? I found 3 of them,the smallest one is what I have on my indoor loop pump. It is the UPS15-58FC.It was cheap,around 70.00.Im not sure if it has the GPM to run 105ft,and my pex runs up the side of the house 12ft,then down into the boiler room.The next larger circs go from 70.00 up to over 200.00.
I installed the pump outside because I was always told electric circ pumps were designed to push water not pull it.Putting it in the boiler room it would need to pull the water up the side of the house thru the attic,and it just didnt make sense to me to do that.Otherwise Id have it in there as well,much easier to get too.Putting it outside it was able to take advantage of the constant water supply,(owb tank).Also Shaver shows,and recommended it on the unit,not that that matters,but my buiding dept and UL permit showed everything in the unit,not a big deal,but another issue.

 

[fletcher0780]

I've got the 15-58, 160' one way. But I'm using 30mm ID pex. If you're using 1" pex you'll probably need the larger pump. I've always used the pump to pull the water. FYI the grundfos pump says for indoor use only.

 

[John D]

your 160 one way,Im 210 both ways.Thats a big difference,I may try the smaller pump,and if it isnt enough,keep it for a spare on the indoor loop. Im pretty sure the Ranco,solenoid and blower are also for indoor use only as they are delivered,unless put in an approved enclosure.The Shaver back door is adequete protection,except for the condensation,which ive taken care of.I dont think moisture had anything to do with mine failing,I think its got a bad spot in the motor.Its been working great now that i have it on 24/7,but i know its on its way out.

 

[yodayoda]

John If you don't mind, could you measure on your 250, the distance from the front of your firebox to your chimney?

I have a 165, 34" long fire box and aprox 25" from the front of the firebox to the chimney
.
I see the 250 firebox is 50" long, but was wondering where they put the chimney, ie how long of logs you can put in it.

I am debating getting rid of my shaver, or the dealer I bought it from will let me trade it in for a bigger one, don't know how much $ yet.

My main reason is my burn times suck, 8 hours at best when below zero.

I really like the woodmaster, huge firebox, but that would require me to sell my stove to some poor bas****

Does the longer firebox allow you to get significantly more wood in it? maybe the 290?

Seems to me the larger models should have a bigger diameter firebox, longer may not gain me that much.

I don't know maybe I should just do the mods to mine and live with it.

 

[fletcher0780]

I've got the 290 an can put almost 4' logs in. I normally load 2 rows of 20" plus wood on the real cold nights, but burn time still isn't great because of the limited insulation. This summer I'm goind to add 2" hi density rigid foam boards all around the boiler, including beneath it. I think that should extend my burn times greatly. The woodmasters are nice until you need to clean out the ashes. I'm not sure how well the ash auger works, but the ones without can be a pain to clean.

 

[yodayoda]

I've got the 290 an can put almost 4' logs in. I normally load 2 rows of 20" plus wood on the real cold nights, but burn time still isn't great because of the limited insulation. This summer I'm goind to add 2" hi density rigid foam boards all around the boiler, including beneath it. I think that should extend my burn times greatly. The woodmasters are nice until you need to clean out the ashes. I'm not sure how well the ash auger works, but the ones without can be a pain to clean.

Thanks Fletcher, I am considreing insulating mine the same way,
How long of burn times can you get?
And yeah, I was thinking the same thing about the woodmaster, too bad they dont have a grate and ash pan setup.

 

[fletcher0780]

When it is in the sigle digits I can get about 8 hours fully loaded, but I'm heating a 3000 sq.ft. house, domestic hot water, a 1000 sq.ft. garage, and a 900 sq.ft apartment above the garage. We keep the house at 75*, garage at 50* and apartment at 70*. I'm burning green hardwood. I hope to extend my burn time to 12 hrs after the insulation.

 

[yodayoda]

When it is in the sigle digits I can get about 8 hours fully loaded, but I'm heating a 3000 sq.ft. house, domestic hot water, a 1000 sq.ft. garage, and a 900 sq.ft apartment above the garage. We keep the house at 75*, garage at 50* and apartment at 70*. I'm burning green hardwood. I hope to extend my burn time to 12 hrs after the insulation.

I'm heating 1400 sq foot house not including basement, house built in the 50's, drafty, not very well insulated,DHW and 36*42 shop with 14' ceiling. Heat house to 70, shop to 45.

So maybe I'm not doing so bad, Burnt aprox 12-13 cord so far, mix of birch and maple. Wood was green last September. So maybe I should just Insulate stove better, do Ranco mod,I have next years wood all cut, aprox 15 cord of Birch, so it should be pretty dry next winter.

You must have used allot of wood if your filling that beast full every 8 hours when cold out, I don't know about you, but it has been a long cold winter here.

 

[Fishhead]

What about going with a Natures Comfort? I had a shaver 250 yes you can get a long log in it but with the small door opening its near imposable to get a 12x48" green log in it without killing your back. Read my thread on my shaver 250 it was a nightmare. My dad has a Natures comfort 250 and loves it. 4' wood and a huge door, removable ash pan, blower with flapper, honeywell stat. Yes there more money but with the mods you need to do to the shaver and the extra quality you get with the NC its well worth it. Set the two side by side and youll be going home with a NC boiler.

 

[yodayoda]

What about going with a Natures Comfort? I had a shaver 250 yes you can get a long log in it but with the small door opening its near imposable to get a 12x48" green log in it without killing your back. Read my thread on my shaver 250 it was a nightmare. My dad has a Natures comfort 250 and loves it. 4' wood and a huge door, removable ash pan, blower with flapper, honeywell stat. Yes there more money but with the mods you need to do to the shaver and the extra quality you get with the NC its well worth it. Set the two side by side and youll be going home with a NC boiler.

Yes I've looked at them on their website looks like a really nice unit. Problem is, in order to trade mine in I have to go with another shaver from where I bought it, unless I put it on Craigs list and try and sell it myself.I just don't know if I would feel right about selling it to some unsuspecting person.

 

[John D]

John If you don't mind, could you measure on your 250, the distance from the front of your firebox to your chimney?

I have a 165, 34" long fire box and aprox 25" from the front of the firebox to the chimney
.
I see the 250 firebox is 50" long, but was wondering where they put the chimney, ie how long of logs you can put in it.

I am debating getting rid of my shaver, or the dealer I bought it from will let me trade it in for a bigger one, don't know how much $ yet.

My main reason is my burn times suck, 8 hours at best when below zero.

I really like the woodmaster, huge firebox, but that would require me to sell my stove to some poor bas****

Does the longer firebox allow you to get significantly more wood in it? maybe the 290?

Seems to me the larger models should have a bigger diameter firebox, longer may not gain me that much.

I don't know maybe I should just do the mods to mine and live with it.

I am getting about 42" from the front of chimney to the front of firebox.Thank god I went with a 250,I changed my order at the last minute.I regularly load in 3 3 1/2ft logs,the ony place I cant get a 4fter is right dead center on top.I wish I'd went with a 340 now.I cut my large wood to 30",since thats my splitters max log length.The smaller wood i cut to 36+ usually,sometimes leave them longer.
As for another OWB.I think I am going to build my own here in the near future.Im not sure what shape or the details yet,Im still gathering info on it.But Im going to concentrate on maximum exchange area more than anything else.I think the Shaver really suffers there,the entire bottom of the unit has zero heat transfer area,and I hate losing 1/3 of the firebox to an ashpan,that combined with the small door are my single biggest beefs right now,just not enough capacity,and its hard to get the firebox even 3/4 full sometimes,you end up having to move the wood around alot to wedge the firebox full for real cold nights or long burn times.