k7iou1
ArboristSite Lurker
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Show me your Woodshed designs
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LoneMadrone
I'm staying, finishing my coffee.
Wood shed discussion? I'm in.
WHATEVER you do, hang tools off one side, and PLEASE hang a dart board off the other. You owe it to yourself. Deschutes Brewery dart cabinet I won by getting my name pulled out of a twelve pack.
WHATEVER you do, hang tools off one side, and PLEASE hang a dart board off the other. You owe it to yourself. Deschutes Brewery dart cabinet I won by getting my name pulled out of a twelve pack.
Trapper_Pete
ArboristSite Operative
you sound like you have a good idea
here is mine , I threw it together in a day with a very limited budget and mostly scrounged wood
I had four 8 foot 4x4 , and a bunch of 8 and 10 foot salvaged 2x4
I purchased the roofing and some 12 foot 2x4
keep in mind that when they build pole barns around here they often run 9'6" centers on the posts and they run trusses then they run 10 foot 2x4 overlapped at the ends set on the short edge for purlins then screw the congregated steel to the purlins with 1 1/2 inch hex head screws with the rubber washers
if you set every 8 feet bolting a 2x6 to each side of the 4x4 pots and used 2x4 purlins you would hold a lot of snow load , I would try and set the back 8 foot to the underside of the 2x6 in back and 9 foot 6 inches in front that will tilt your roof 16 inches in 8 feet ver close to 2 feet over 10 feet of tin set it so that the south side or south east side is open
this will give 8x8 foot open bays stacked 2 high each bay will be 4 cord and allow you to fill a bay at a time and use it without disturbing the next till it has had a chance to dry as a bay emptied you will be able to start filling it again
it depends how wide your tin is but assuming 3 feet if you purchase one more or two more pieces of tin depending on the overhang at each end you could have 4 bays time 4 cord in each bay 16 cord if your stacking right to the roof a bit more in each.
one thing about tin used like this is there are some days of the year it sweats a lot generally it doesn't get the wood wet but on those 40 degree damp days it sweats
when I buil this free standing shed I built the roof frame ont he drive way were it is flat then had my wife help me carry it over tp this location I held one end up while she put the posts in the sockets I left for them then I picked up the front and she stuck those posts in I went around with a hammer and a level got the posts as strait as I could and screwed the posts to the roof then put bracing around I think this is about 8 years old I always meant to stain it or make it look nicer just never got to it
I wand to say my total cost was lie 140 dollars and a hundred of that was the steel roofing
the roof 8 foot front to back and 12 foot wide a little smaller on the inside the read height is about 6foot 6 inches and the front 7 foot 6 inches byt he time you get pallets in for the floor the pallets are screwed to the bracing so that it helps hold it all down
real close to 4 cord
I would love to have a second maybe little nicer one sitting just to the right of it then rebuild this one it isn't pretty but it makes very dry wood I cut mostly down or standing dead wood if it is in the shed for months it is ready to burn
a shed that holds everything you need for one year would be perfect fill on shed whilel the other empties
I end up with a pile of splits next to this one or as you can see in front of it also that will need to be stacked soon
here is mine , I threw it together in a day with a very limited budget and mostly scrounged wood
I had four 8 foot 4x4 , and a bunch of 8 and 10 foot salvaged 2x4
I purchased the roofing and some 12 foot 2x4
keep in mind that when they build pole barns around here they often run 9'6" centers on the posts and they run trusses then they run 10 foot 2x4 overlapped at the ends set on the short edge for purlins then screw the congregated steel to the purlins with 1 1/2 inch hex head screws with the rubber washers
if you set every 8 feet bolting a 2x6 to each side of the 4x4 pots and used 2x4 purlins you would hold a lot of snow load , I would try and set the back 8 foot to the underside of the 2x6 in back and 9 foot 6 inches in front that will tilt your roof 16 inches in 8 feet ver close to 2 feet over 10 feet of tin set it so that the south side or south east side is open
this will give 8x8 foot open bays stacked 2 high each bay will be 4 cord and allow you to fill a bay at a time and use it without disturbing the next till it has had a chance to dry as a bay emptied you will be able to start filling it again
it depends how wide your tin is but assuming 3 feet if you purchase one more or two more pieces of tin depending on the overhang at each end you could have 4 bays time 4 cord in each bay 16 cord if your stacking right to the roof a bit more in each.
one thing about tin used like this is there are some days of the year it sweats a lot generally it doesn't get the wood wet but on those 40 degree damp days it sweats
when I buil this free standing shed I built the roof frame ont he drive way were it is flat then had my wife help me carry it over tp this location I held one end up while she put the posts in the sockets I left for them then I picked up the front and she stuck those posts in I went around with a hammer and a level got the posts as strait as I could and screwed the posts to the roof then put bracing around I think this is about 8 years old I always meant to stain it or make it look nicer just never got to it
I wand to say my total cost was lie 140 dollars and a hundred of that was the steel roofing
the roof 8 foot front to back and 12 foot wide a little smaller on the inside the read height is about 6foot 6 inches and the front 7 foot 6 inches byt he time you get pallets in for the floor the pallets are screwed to the bracing so that it helps hold it all down
real close to 4 cord
I would love to have a second maybe little nicer one sitting just to the right of it then rebuild this one it isn't pretty but it makes very dry wood I cut mostly down or standing dead wood if it is in the shed for months it is ready to burn
a shed that holds everything you need for one year would be perfect fill on shed whilel the other empties
I end up with a pile of splits next to this one or as you can see in front of it also that will need to be stacked soon
Do you have to brush the snow off the roof? I'd be a bit scared to span 2x4s that far with a good snow load.
k7iou1
ArboristSite Lurker
Inexpensive way to go.
I'm working on my design right now.
More later!
Keep posting your woodsheds!
Thanks!
I'm working on my design right now.
More later!
Keep posting your woodsheds!
Thanks!
Mines just a 12x28 lean too off the side of the garage.
Trapper_Pete
ArboristSite Operative
I haven't had to move snow off the roof in the 8 years it has been standing never had more than 20 inches of snow at a time however , remember they build pole barns in the UP of Michigan with 8 foot centers on the trusses and 2x4 purlins I am only asking a little more out of it with about 11 feet of span
I am in southern Wisconsin , our record snow is 108 inches for the year the UP of Michigan gets more like 240 inches
in southern Wisconsin they will put posts for pole barns up to 10 feet on center
I worked for a plumbing company in the 90s that got a new building posts were 9"6" on center with a truss at each post notched in , I did the electrical for the building , I could take 10 foot planks and put them over the trusses and walk down the center of the building hanging lights and fans the building was 50 by 90
my roof only has about a foot of rise over 8 feet of run if you get closer to 2 feet over 10 it should shed the snow faster as soon as things warm up a bit
also if you go down to 8 feet of span with 2x4 purlins 16 on center and more rise for the run there should be no issue
my design isn't the best but it works and it was very low cost it should give ideas of what can be done
I have drawn up other designs that would be much more sturdy most of them would be built on 3 skids and have stud walls on 3 sides but I figure would cost more
I am in southern Wisconsin , our record snow is 108 inches for the year the UP of Michigan gets more like 240 inches
in southern Wisconsin they will put posts for pole barns up to 10 feet on center
I worked for a plumbing company in the 90s that got a new building posts were 9"6" on center with a truss at each post notched in , I did the electrical for the building , I could take 10 foot planks and put them over the trusses and walk down the center of the building hanging lights and fans the building was 50 by 90
my roof only has about a foot of rise over 8 feet of run if you get closer to 2 feet over 10 it should shed the snow faster as soon as things warm up a bit
also if you go down to 8 feet of span with 2x4 purlins 16 on center and more rise for the run there should be no issue
my design isn't the best but it works and it was very low cost it should give ideas of what can be done
I have drawn up other designs that would be much more sturdy most of them would be built on 3 skids and have stud walls on 3 sides but I figure would cost more
I'm glad it works for ya. I walk into houses being built with beams and double joists and lam beams every where my house has none of that but I tend to over build stuff around the property. I framed my steel shed with 2x4s on the inside for the snow load. I figured Wisconsin gets some what similar snow to what we get. Damn construction industry gets the best of me.
10' deep x 22' wide. Metal 4 x 4 post were some light poles I removed from a job at work. I cut them down to size then welded the scraps together to make more of them. The I beam across the front was left over off a job also (free), there were 2 of them. One I remodeled into the 2 uprights that support the center beam. The horizontal wood was from a contractor building a big deck, a little to crooked to use (free). It straightened out when screwed to the metal posts. Made the light fixture, 4 lamp T8 fluorescent. Large enough for a little over 2 years of firewood. Wood comes off the trailer, onto the splitter, then tossed into the shed. Only the front is stacked. Tossing/piling is 3x quicker than stacking. I burn left to right one year, then right to left the next year. Concrete all the way from the shed to the garage, I move the 3' square wood box from the shed to the garage with a pallet jack.
Trapper_Pete
ArboristSite Operative
I tend to way overbuild also , but I saw a roof like this over a dog kennel near by and was short on money and in need of cover for my fire wood. maybe the best 140 dollars ever spent on fire wood , wood under a shed is just so much drier than any tarp I ever used and no trying to duck under the tarp and grab some wood just to have a bunch of snow come off and go down your back or when it rains for a week in march and the tarp is holding water.
the roof on my 108 year old front porch roof is all 2x4 joists , the support beams were 1x12 with 2x4s scabed to them and another 1x12 on the other side , they were still solid when I took them out , I didn't remove the roof because if I did it changed the building permit and more than doubled the cost of the project
the roof joists on the house my great great grandfather built in 1888 are 4 inch cedar poles 24 on center with doubled up 1x12 for the ridge pole when we re-roofed it in 2003 and put sheeting over the one by planks , he was a boat builder by trade he used every knot holed board he couldn't use on a boat on that roof
driving nails into 115 year old cedar poles is interesting there is a lot of bounce when you hit it with a hammer , we borrowed an air nailer and that made it go a lot faster the house and roof are still holding well today 129 years old , that house is in North east Wisconsin and gets a lot more snow but also has a 12/12 pitch roof
the roof on my 108 year old front porch roof is all 2x4 joists , the support beams were 1x12 with 2x4s scabed to them and another 1x12 on the other side , they were still solid when I took them out , I didn't remove the roof because if I did it changed the building permit and more than doubled the cost of the project
the roof joists on the house my great great grandfather built in 1888 are 4 inch cedar poles 24 on center with doubled up 1x12 for the ridge pole when we re-roofed it in 2003 and put sheeting over the one by planks , he was a boat builder by trade he used every knot holed board he couldn't use on a boat on that roof
driving nails into 115 year old cedar poles is interesting there is a lot of bounce when you hit it with a hammer , we borrowed an air nailer and that made it go a lot faster the house and roof are still holding well today 129 years old , that house is in North east Wisconsin and gets a lot more snow but also has a 12/12 pitch roof
Willy Firewood
I may look my age, but I sure don’t think my age!
I heat with wood also. I built a woodshed - 8' x 24' pole building with 8' walls. It has 1' overhang on sides and rear. 3' overhang in the front. I left the eaves open for air circulation. It has a concrete floor with drainage behind and around the sides. It is wired with lights and outlets. It looks ok because it is back against the edge of the woods with my kennel building next to it. It is close enough to the house. It is divided into 3 sections with a framework of treated 2x4s to make staking easy and tidy. It has two overlapping sliding doors on the front so it opens fully. Each section holds 4 cords of split stacked wood. It has been a wonderful woodshed for 25 years! My only regret is that I should have built is 16' x 24'.
I'm starting to get wood shed fever.
Gotta build a garden first I got rid of my snow fence one last year.
Gotta build a garden first I got rid of my snow fence one last year.
k7iou1
ArboristSite Lurker
Very nice! I like your system! Convenient near garage. Can you come over and build one for me?
I like the proverbs quote!
Anyone build a hoop barn out of 3/4 pvc and a tarp? I lined a bunch of pallets up today and nails them together to hold my wood stacks and I was thinking about throwing a hoop roof on it because it's cheap. Will it handle snow is the question.
No it won't handle the snow. I've known several folks try the actual metal pole ones and if the snow didn't get them the wind will.
I built one using 3/4 emt conduit. Something like 32' long by 10' wide if my memory serves me. It's held up to 2 winters with the same tarps. The ropes I used to tie the tarp down are failing, but the tarps held up just fine.
I've dismantled half of it, and the other half will come down once the pole barn is done. But here's the half still sanding.
That's as close as I can get at the moment. The tarp is desheveled because it was attached to a second which has been removed. I bent all the conduit to form a peak and had 5' in the ground as anchors.
Sent from a field
My main thing was to have a more sturdy way of stacking my wood but this post got me thinking mayb I could put a roof over it instead of just tarping it. I see a lot of small hoop buildings but don't know how well they work
We sit on top of a hill, and get some hellacious winds. Just a couple weeks ago we had 60mph+. And its still there. Ive got a better picture of it somewhere, let me see if I can find it.
Here ya go. Normally it would shed snow like a steel roof.
There lots of threads on firewood storage ideas... Heres the one where I originally posted those pictures...
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lets-c-your-firewood-storage-shed.288802/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/lets-c-your-firewood-storage-shed.288802/
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