I feel like I've seen this before on a thread but I'll them out I'm thinking of using 1 inch schedule 40 conduit to finish my roof off. I work with pvc every day so I have a feel for it.
Show me your Woodshed designs
- Thread starter k7iou1
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Haha I remember that thread from when I first joined. Didn't read much of it but I remembered ur building. Also don't remember y I was reading it since it was a few years ago.
I highly recommend the wood shed. I stacked and tarped for 30 years. (I must be getting old). Having a shed large enough for 2 years is a huge plus. you get plenty of drying time and you don't worrie about running out of wood, you can always dip into next years wood a little if you need to. I have used mine for 3 years now. I should have built one years ago.
My wood shed is made from pallets and similar, along with recovered 4x4 posts from the kids play center. The only "new" material that went into it was the shingles on the roof. Like Del's above, I made mine with front to back dividers at each post, so I have 5 separate bays each about 6' wide, 5 rows deep, and 8' at the front. I highly recommend the separated bays. Each bay can be emptied and filled separately. We normally work left to right, and I usually start filling the previous bay within a few weeks of it being emptied. We burn about 3 bays worth a winter, so have almost 2yrs wood on hand at any given time. Right now, I have 1 bay half empty (the active heating bay) and the previous bay has been 2/3 refilled with enough wood blocked for the rest. We try to mix poplar / cedar / pine into every row for kindling, but sometimes you "rob" from a future bay if you're into some larger maple / oak.
The back wall of mine faces the prevailing wind, and I have about 50% closure (pallet spacing) on the back and end walls for lots of air movement through the pile.
I planted pines on 3 sides, so it's almost invisible from anywhere other than the driveway.
I looked through my pictures - seems I've never taken a picture of it - it's nothing fancy but it gets the job done.
The back wall of mine faces the prevailing wind, and I have about 50% closure (pallet spacing) on the back and end walls for lots of air movement through the pile.
I planted pines on 3 sides, so it's almost invisible from anywhere other than the driveway.
I looked through my pictures - seems I've never taken a picture of it - it's nothing fancy but it gets the job done.
sledge&wedge
ArboristSite Operative
That's what I do. Everything is stacked outside in open air from whenever I split and stack until the very beginning of the season I plan to burn it. Then I move about a cord at a time into my barn, which keeps it out of the weather until it's time to load the stove. Works for me.
Not a wood shed but 4' x 4' x 7'h racks side by side and 3/4 cord each. I no longer use them (have thirty for sale) but one customer bought eight and covered them with fiberglas panels (last photo).
T. Mainus
ArboristSite Operative
Heres our 40x80 "woodshed" We can get almost 11 cord stacked under that 80' lean to. That side faces south, the wood cooks under there and never gets wet. That is our premium wood.
I think the woodshed part is just a bonus of that building lol nice barn
Trapper_Pete
ArboristSite Operative
I have decided that I am putting a wall down the center of my shed and possibly extending the front of the roof by 2-3 feet it does rain in a bit on the wood for the first 2 feet of my shed when the rain is coming out of that direction
putting the wall down the middle will give me two bays so that I can fill one once I get half my wood used for the season while I continue burning what is in the second bay , this will also provide support for the middle of the roof in the event we get a heavy snow year
currently I end up with a pile of splits waiting for the last of the burning season to get stacked it will be nice to be stacking them in the one side while still being able to get my ready to burn wood out
putting the wall down the middle will give me two bays so that I can fill one once I get half my wood used for the season while I continue burning what is in the second bay , this will also provide support for the middle of the roof in the event we get a heavy snow year
currently I end up with a pile of splits waiting for the last of the burning season to get stacked it will be nice to be stacking them in the one side while still being able to get my ready to burn wood out
k7iou1
ArboristSite Lurker
So the design I'm leaning to is 10'x24' due to my ribbed metal sheets that are 10'. Using 4x4 posts, 2x10 headers, 2x6 rafters, 2x4 purlins.
BUT
My brother says to cut the 10' sheets in half and build 5'x24' with 3 rows deep of stacked firewood. He says a friend had a deeper one and it was difficult to rotate firewood so he changed it to only 5' deep.
He suggests 4" overhangs, 4x4 posts on blocks or post supports, 8-1/2' H front & 7-1/2' H back, with the shorter depth I can use 2x6 headers, 2x4 rafters, 2x4 purlins. 2x4 treated ground level on sides & back inside of 4x4's, then 1/2" treated plywood on sides and back.
My firewood is 18-20" so it's a little short (deep).
BUT
My brother says to cut the 10' sheets in half and build 5'x24' with 3 rows deep of stacked firewood. He says a friend had a deeper one and it was difficult to rotate firewood so he changed it to only 5' deep.
He suggests 4" overhangs, 4x4 posts on blocks or post supports, 8-1/2' H front & 7-1/2' H back, with the shorter depth I can use 2x6 headers, 2x4 rafters, 2x4 purlins. 2x4 treated ground level on sides & back inside of 4x4's, then 1/2" treated plywood on sides and back.
My firewood is 18-20" so it's a little short (deep).
I started building two separate lean-to sheds facing each other so I could drive through between them, and rotate each year. When I finished it looked like this. Go figure... (24' X 32' wide) Siding is resawn 2" x 12" planks, or 3/4"thick. Dirt floor.
Woodyjiw
ArboristSite Operative
Here is my shed, I also live in MI. 12'x24' off the back of my barn. 4x6 posts, 2x10 headers (I believe), 2x8x14 rafters and 2x4 purlins. I put down dolamite then compacted it. Works very well for me and holds around 13-14 full cord, stacked as high as I can reach. I'm 6'1" and have yet to run out of wood in a season when it's full.
I tried pallets on the ground and tarps but it was a hassle to me. I have about $650 into my shed with dolamite and power to it.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I tried pallets on the ground and tarps but it was a hassle to me. I have about $650 into my shed with dolamite and power to it.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
k7iou1
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k7iou1, Do you not have any ash there? A piece of ash would have been a nice finish to the day in the bush.
Trapper_Pete
ArboristSite Operative
I was at the rifle club yesterday for a shoot , the range cover structure was put in in the 50s or early 60s it is a galvanized tin roof it has 12 shooting bays each 6 feet wide the posts define each shooting bay they are 4x4 posts the structure is 10 feet front back between the posts and 6 feet between posts down it's length of 72 feet with about 16 inches overhang at each end.
it also has a 4 foot overhang off the front this is angled opposite the main roof and braced with diagonal 2x4 at each post
running the 75 foot length are 2x6 inside and outside of each post the rafters are a 2x4 on each side of each post every 6 feet then the perlins are 2x4 on edge this structure has stood more than 50 years in all manner of weather it gets wind from the northwest strong and it gets a lot of snow because it sits on the north side of a steep hill it is not uncommon for there to be twice or more the snow drifted in around the building and sitting on top of it than we actually get most of the winter it is knee deep over there even if there is only 6 inches out in the open.
you can add some aditional bracing to the walls so opening up to 8 foot spacing between the posts should not be a problem
I will try an get you a picture at next weeks shoot
it also has a 4 foot overhang off the front this is angled opposite the main roof and braced with diagonal 2x4 at each post
running the 75 foot length are 2x6 inside and outside of each post the rafters are a 2x4 on each side of each post every 6 feet then the perlins are 2x4 on edge this structure has stood more than 50 years in all manner of weather it gets wind from the northwest strong and it gets a lot of snow because it sits on the north side of a steep hill it is not uncommon for there to be twice or more the snow drifted in around the building and sitting on top of it than we actually get most of the winter it is knee deep over there even if there is only 6 inches out in the open.
you can add some aditional bracing to the walls so opening up to 8 foot spacing between the posts should not be a problem
I will try an get you a picture at next weeks shoot
I'm going to try adding the 1"pvc tarp hoop barn roof to my walls and see what happens. It's cheap and if it doesn't work out well. The wife wants chickens in the future so mayb this will help decide on that shelter.
I have 2 wood sheds, the big one holds about 4 cords, it is built from recycled material (pallets).
The small one is make from 4 pallets, and 2by4's for the roof, both have roll roofing.
The small one is make from 4 pallets, and 2by4's for the roof, both have roll roofing.
Sledneck_77
ArboristSite Lurker
I know you guys have seen my she'd before. Built it out of pallets. A few 2x4's and 2x6's for rafters. Including the shingles I kept it under 200 bucks. Pallets aren't just for burning anymore. Hahaha
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