I was joking about the newer M-tronic and EFI saws being easy to tune.
So bought a chinese saw (holz g070)
- Thread starter sliceoflife
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sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Appreciate all the help. I'll turn the H in some more and get more audio.
Throttle was in the whole time in this video... was using the lock until I got it right up to the end of the cut.
I checked placement of H and it was about 2.5 turns ccw. I adjusted it to about 2 turns ccw and I'll try again.
Throttle was in the whole time in this video... was using the lock until I got it right up to the end of the cut.
I checked placement of H and it was about 2.5 turns ccw. I adjusted it to about 2 turns ccw and I'll try again.
For brief moments you can hear the saw "clean up". That's what you want through the whole cut when the saw is working hard. As soon as the motor stops working hard, it should 4 stroke, then clean up instantly when it is working hard again. When it's happy, it kind-of warbles. It sings like the birds.
Your governor vane might be too soft also. Closes the choke prematurely.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Whats the correction for that? Replace it I assume?
Get the tuning dialed in before you worry about the governor.
I
t sounds like you are misinformed completely. I do not understand what any body would use or want a tachometer. The 070 has a governor unless disconnected. So RPMs is useless. I think mine starts to peak out near 8,000 RPMs. Under a load from an idle up it should run clean until it starts to sputter which has nothing to do with tuning. If you want adjust idle you can do so with the clutch. Mine idle a little less than the activation of the clutch which will consistently do so for ten minutes. Since I have two of them I try to adjust both of them similar. They are real work horses that are incredibly reliable. Thanks
No its adjustable, its spring loader with about six stiffness notches.
Do you have a manual or ipl. ?
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah manual is here. I'll see if there's any info in it on the governor if I can't get the saw running strong via h adjustment.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Second try.... After the second time I cross over the camera (moving left to right briefly (~3:10) ), I start adjusting in the H further. I think I adjust it a total of three times... each time ~1/4 turn CW... Moving it to roughly 1.25-1.5 turns CCW from seated; I would guess. Last 50% or so of the film I don't adjust anything.
" I would guess "
it's always nice to establish baseline settings. I have written those on the inside of the filter covers on a couple of saws that are weird, like my Echo 590, for example. Turn your screws all the way in from where you are now and figure out where you are. You are closer.
But I'd say you are still rich.
old saws respond to as little as a sixteenth turn on the screws. Normally you work in eighths or so for a fine tune. I imagine that copy would be similar. oftentimes a quarter turn misses the sweet spot once you are close. And then atmospheric conditions change...
let that thing idle for a bit after your cut and before you shut it down! You want the temperature to stabilize at something not screamin' hot. If you shut it down screamin hot, it will get way hotter fast. If you stabilize it, it will not.
did you watch buckin billy's video? It is worth your time, even though it is long.
it's always nice to establish baseline settings. I have written those on the inside of the filter covers on a couple of saws that are weird, like my Echo 590, for example. Turn your screws all the way in from where you are now and figure out where you are. You are closer.
But I'd say you are still rich.
old saws respond to as little as a sixteenth turn on the screws. Normally you work in eighths or so for a fine tune. I imagine that copy would be similar. oftentimes a quarter turn misses the sweet spot once you are close. And then atmospheric conditions change...
let that thing idle for a bit after your cut and before you shut it down! You want the temperature to stabilize at something not screamin' hot. If you shut it down screamin hot, it will get way hotter fast. If you stabilize it, it will not.
did you watch buckin billy's video? It is worth your time, even though it is long.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Watching it now. Somehow that post slipped past me (at the very bottom of Pg 2 so I missed it when Pg 3 appeared).
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Third time around... ~ a single turn out on H jet from seated... It still will bog down it seems if I lean it right into the wood at a 26"+ section of the log, but did two slabs today (first is the audio recording and took about 7min for the first and less than 4 min for the second. Also used like 1/4 the gas I was using in the first attempt above.) Second slab pictured below (Needs a lot of planing, but got some nice wormy streaks).
Attachments
Almost there, bouncing between four stroking and two stroking while you were in the cut. Still a bit rich.
You really can't hear it yourself by now?
You really can't hear it yourself by now?
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Honestly... It sounds like it's dying to me like 90% of the time with my hearing protection on. I can only really tell if Im in wood (its muffled) or out of wood (It's screaming). Probably should try a cut with slightly less heavy earmuffs. The Tach is still hanging there because I've not bothered to remove it yet... and I'll think the saw is bogging down and peak at it and it'll be at like 8000... just so heavily muffled by my hearing protection if it isn't roaring it sounds bogged. I'll give it another 1/16th turn in and try using some lighter ear muffs and goggles instead of my helmet; see if I can tell better.
@1:04-1:08 in the video... that's the bouncing between you're talking about right? The more consistent, higher pitched, Nasally sound is what I want (two stroking) and the deeper throatier sound that's kinda like a hammer drill is four stroking? Is that right? So 1:20-1:30 is mostly four stroking?
@1:04-1:08 in the video... that's the bouncing between you're talking about right? The more consistent, higher pitched, Nasally sound is what I want (two stroking) and the deeper throatier sound that's kinda like a hammer drill is four stroking? Is that right? So 1:20-1:30 is mostly four stroking?
Interesting, you should be able to hear it just fine, even doubled up on earpro.
Wish you were next door, bet I could show you the sound in about two minutes.
Wish you were next door, bet I could show you the sound in about two minutes.
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah that's kinda how I figure it is. Someone who can hold the saw and show me could explain it in a few minutes. But even with a dozen videos explaining it I'm still not quite positive what I'm listening for.
4:20-4:25 all two stroking with a microsecond blip of 4 stroking right at 4:25 just before it rolls to 4:26, Same at 4:27 and 4:41... little flashes of four stroking? Is that what I'm listening for? Almost sounds like the saw is farting a wet fart?
4:20-4:25 all two stroking with a microsecond blip of 4 stroking right at 4:25 just before it rolls to 4:26, Same at 4:27 and 4:41... little flashes of four stroking? Is that what I'm listening for? Almost sounds like the saw is farting a wet fart?
That's it exactly!
two stroking is a smooth sound.
four stroking is a rough sound.
it's as distinct as black and white, once you can recognize it
it can easily be heard with muffs on.
just listened to the first 15 sec of the vid. Painfully rich. 4 stroking all the way. gutless. Turn your hi in an eighth.
Listening as I type...once the saw gets hot, it starts to 2 stroke more, but is still rich. The saw is struggling. Badly. It's a torquey saw. It shouldn't struggle.Your chain is likely dull...
yup, rich all the way...
four stroking is a rough sound.
it's as distinct as black and white, once you can recognize it
it can easily be heard with muffs on.
just listened to the first 15 sec of the vid. Painfully rich. 4 stroking all the way. gutless. Turn your hi in an eighth.
Listening as I type...once the saw gets hot, it starts to 2 stroke more, but is still rich. The saw is struggling. Badly. It's a torquey saw. It shouldn't struggle.Your chain is likely dull...
yup, rich all the way...
sliceoflife
ArboristSite Operative
Holeycow. You mean literal first 15 seconds? That's Idling. I rev the saw twice but other than that it's just idling until 0:41 in video... If I lean the L up any, RPM climbs and the chain starts to spin. If RPM goes over 1500, chain spins... Saw is supposed to idle @ 2500... but it could practically mill @ 2500 the chain is so active. I assume clutch/springs are low quality is the problem. Any fix for this other than replacing the clutch/springs?
