So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

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The deposits castor oil leaves behind is what protects the piston skirts from scuffing. Running it occasionally isn't a bad thing and will decrease wear over the long run. Finding old engines nearly lockedup from running it is priceless. It cleans up with common solvents.
Ymmv
That's bot true at all. Those burnt on carbon deposits just lead to more cylinder wear.
 
Oh man this thread... still consuming lives, oil threads are literally banned in some forums...
Haven't we all just agreed to run Red Armor or Power Blend yet? My equipment loves that stuff.
I will say this... I've now started creeping my oil mix back up to 32:1 (from 40:1), for that little extra lube in the bottom end. I'm noticing no real difference in smoke or oily exhaust, or fouled plugs. No need to retune either so far, in case anyone is wondering.
I'm also using up my cheap 2-smoke oil (the stuff that's supposedly usable in everything from a chainsaw to a snowmobile to a dirtbike) in my cheaper equipment, and to no surprise it works fine.
I have sworn off using marine oil in anything air-cooled, I can credit that to these discussions.

Carry on.
 
Oh man this thread... still consuming lives, oil threads are literally banned in some forums...
Haven't we all just agreed to run Red Armor or Power Blend yet? My equipment loves that stuff.
I will say this... I've now started creeping my oil mix back up to 32:1 (from 40:1), for that little extra lube in the bottom end. I'm noticing no real difference in smoke or oily exhaust, or fouled plugs. No need to retune either so far, in case anyone is wondering.
I'm also using up my cheap 2-smoke oil (the stuff that's supposedly usable in everything from a chainsaw to a snowmobile to a dirtbike) in my cheaper equipment, and to no surprise it works fine.
I have sworn off using marine oil in anything air-cooled, I can credit that to these discussions.

Carry on.

People love to hate oil threads, but deep down they love them lol.
 
Oh man this thread... still consuming lives, oil threads are literally banned in some forums...
Haven't we all just agreed to run Red Armor or Power Blend yet? My equipment loves that stuff.
I will say this... I've now started creeping my oil mix back up to 32:1 (from 40:1), for that little extra lube in the bottom end. I'm noticing no real difference in smoke or oily exhaust, or fouled plugs. No need to retune either so far, in case anyone is wondering.
I'm also using up my cheap 2-smoke oil (the stuff that's supposedly usable in everything from a chainsaw to a snowmobile to a dirtbike) in my cheaper equipment, and to no surprise it works fine.
I have sworn off using marine oil in anything air-cooled, I can credit that to these discussions.

Carry on.
Most have agreed on what decent quality oil is, but it's a never ending debate..... so round and round we go.
 
No, it doesn't clean up with common solvents very easily. It's very tight on remove. Such that most guys that use it in applications that need it just replace the pistons.
And the gum castor leaves behind begins to buildup on the ring grooves, which hamper ring mobility and increases wear.
There isn't a single good reason to use it in a chain saw or most other machines for that matter.
Yep , absolutely correct Ben . I have utilized Castors extensively back in the day when , they ensured your engine would finish the race . However , even during high rpm & temperature snowmobile & dirt bike racing applications , routine engine tear downs were required for decarbonizing . Originally , Klotz Benol & R-50 were big sellers where gall prevention was required in the old free air modified triples & twin cylinder sled racing engines of the day . Today there are several modern synthetic oils , even FC rated mineral oils that offer far superior protection without the dirty downside of bean oils . As far as carbon providing protection ? I cannot think where hardened carbon would provide any form of benefit , only damage from wear or eventual hot spots & potential catastrophic engine failure , especially within today's liquid cooled lower operating temperature sleds & bikes , let alone small air cooled handhelds . Very similar to utilizing Marine grade oils in Aircooled engines , wrong oil for the application basically . I believe both Sean & Ben are spot on within their rational !
 
No, it doesn't clean up with common solvents very easily. It's very tight on remove. Such that most guys that use it in applications that need it just replace the pistons.
And the gum castor leaves behind begins to buildup on the ring grooves, which hamper ring mobility and increases wear.
There isn't a single good reason to use it in a chain saw or most other machines for that matter.

People who run waste veggie oil in their diesels can tell you all about this, too.
 
I've said before... I've seen the abuse saws will tolerate using Husky XP oil, I'd use that stuff all day every day too.
Husqy xp is an excellent oil, same as their red max brand but can be had a bit cheaper. Red armor is better imo, I've never seen an oil leave such a strong film on a piston, very clean burning as well.
 
Neighbor has a 6.9 idi diesel that is ran on 80/20 WMO and diesel. He strains it through a few paint filters.
Had a buddy that did that in his first gen cummins. Worked great till the weather got cold, then he switched back to diesel. Had a heck of a filtration and water separation set up.
 
So what is the flavor of the month now? Looks like everyone hates ultra and loves the red armor. I can remember when it was Mobil 2T and before that it was... and ... and... and...

I just bought the John Deere dealer out of Stihl Super 1 gallon bottles because it had the 10 year old price on it. Cheaper than the orange bottle and I have a lot of woods to clean up now.
 
People who run waste veggie oil in their diesels can tell you all about this, too.

Neighbor has a 6.9 idi diesel that is ran on 80/20 WMO and diesel. He strains it through a few paint filters.
And when you aren't looking they dump a jug of Power Service in the tank.
 

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