So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

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Husqy xp is an excellent oil, same as their red max brand but can be had a bit cheaper. Red armor is better imo, I've never seen an oil leave such a strong film on a piston, very clean burning as well.
My oil expertise is literally just based on my personal experience and what I've observed with using different oils. I've been using Red Armor and... well, everything runs great, no fouled plugs, no seizures.
If I'm being honest with myself... I've never observed a burndown in a 2 stroke that didn't have another causal factor, like a lean fuel air ratio, overheating, or an overly hot plug. Not once could I solely blame a failure on the oil.
You guys that are much more diligent at tearing your motors down and observing the good results of Echo oil are what steered me in that direction, and since then it's been my go-to. My very positive experience using Husky XP in the tree business is why I believe in that stuff, we never had a top end failure, and those saws got rode hard and put away wet.
 
My oil expertise is literally just based on my personal experience and what I've observed with using different oils. I've been using Red Armor and... well, everything runs great, no fouled plugs, no seizures.
If I'm being honest with myself... I've never observed a burndown in a 2 stroke that didn't have another causal factor, like a lean fuel air ratio, overheating, or an overly hot plug. Not once could I solely blame a failure on the oil.
You guys that are much more diligent at tearing your motors down and observing the good results of Echo oil are what steered me in that direction, and since then it's been my go-to. My very positive experience using Husky XP in the tree business is why I believe in that stuff, we never had a top end failure, and those saws got rode hard and put away wet.
Almost all two stroke engine failures are related to air leaks of some sort.
Husky has always sold good oil.
 
Correct oil for a Lawnboy.
Marginal at best even in Merc's , never buy Manfacturers high priced oils for your useage . Buy any Premium aftermarket oil , Redmax , Red Armor , Amsoil , Motul , Castrol 2T even , ....etc ! Any high ( density ) or viscosity premium grade 2T oil will easily neet or exceed any Mercury outboard motor oil within protecting a OMC Lawnboy 2 cycle mower today within 2 cycle oils ! P.S. If you have an old 2 cycle weed-eater grass trimmer have at it with Quicksilver , .....GARBAGE OIL !
 
Marginal at best even in Merc's , never buy Manfacturers high priced oils for your useage . Buy any Premium aftermarket oil , Redmax , Red Armor , Amsoil , Motul , Castrol 2T even , ....etc ! Any high ( density ) or viscosity premium grade 2T oil will easily neet or exceed any Mercury outboard motor oil within protecting a OMC Lawnboy 2 cycle mower today within 2 cycle oils ! P.S. If you have an old 2 cycle weed-eater grass trimmer have at it with Quicksilver , .....GARBAGE OIL !
When I was running fleets of outboards in Canada I mostly used Yamalube 2M. Found it cleaner than Merc or Shell Nautilus. ESSO made a semi synthetic outboard oil that was also pretty good, but it cost more than 2m.
I also ran Amsoil in my personal boat for a season. Couldn't tell that it was any cleaner or better than 2M.

With that said any TCW3 rated ashless oil good in a LB mower. Low ash FD oils really do cause problems in LB mowers at least in the Duraforce models of which I've owned several along with several mower Toro snow commander which is the duraforces piston port cousin.
 
Almost all two stroke engine failures are related to air leaks of some sort.
Husky has always sold good oil.
I had a burndown from a constricted fuel filter on a 2 stroke ATV, and then a snowmobile that seized on a frozen lake because it was jetted too lean.
Small 2 strokes I agree, it's the air leaks that get em almost every time.
 
I had a burndown from a constricted fuel filter on a 2 stroke ATV, and then a snowmobile that seized on a frozen lake because it was jetted too lean.
Small 2 strokes I agree, it's the air leaks that get em almost every time.
Even sleds and bikes succumb to air leaks.
Although obviously anything that leans out the air to fuel ratio is a problem.
 
When I was running fleets of outboards in Canada I mostly used Yamalube 2M. Found it cleaner than Merc or Shell Nautilus. ESSO made a semi synthetic outboard oil that was also pretty good, but it cost more than 2m.
I also ran Amsoil in my personal boat for a season. Couldn't tell that it was any cleaner or better than 2M.

With that said any TCW3 rated ashless oil good in a LB mower. Low ash FD oils really do cause problems in LB mowers at least in the Duraforce models of which I've owned several along with several mower Toro snow commander which is the duraforces piston port cousin.
Yamalube is a quality product have experience with it , TCW3 is fine in pretty well any LB . As long as the mix is rich enough for the bottom end in question . Their pretty tough , I have had pretty well every engine model they produced after the early 60's . Only ran Amsoil (Saber) in one 2T outboard a 79 Evinnrude 90 HP V-4 @ 70:1 for 25 yrs . Water skied & trolled with it , never fouled a plug , just replaced them every 3 yrs lol. Shell has had some quality 2T oils over the years , used some in sleds & bikes . Nothing but Amsoil for the last 10 yrs , except Red Armor recently , which i'am impressed with .
 
Even sleds and bikes succumb to air leaks.
Although obviously anything that leans out the air to fuel ratio is a problem.
Yep I see that all the time when they get a bad crank seal or a torn carb boot, kills em real fast. Snowmobiles usually lose the crank seal on the PTO side. They also have to worry about a failed oil injection from a broken oil line etc.
I still have a 1996 KTM 300cc dirtbike and a 1996 Polaris triple sled, no issues yet with seals, bike is premix and the sled is oil injected.
I used to run the Mobil 2 stroke oil in the KTM while it was still around, now I'll need to use something else, probably a good synthetic since it's got that mechanical power valve deal on the exhaust port.
 
Yep I see that all the time when they get a bad crank seal or a torn carb boot, kills em real fast. Snowmobiles usually lose the crank seal on the PTO side. They also have to worry about a failed oil injection from a broken oil line etc.
I still have a 1996 KTM 300cc dirtbike and a 1996 Polaris triple sled, no issues yet with seals, bike is premix and the sled is oil injected.
I used to run the Mobil 2 stroke oil in the KTM while it was still around, now I'll need to use something else, probably a good synthetic since it's got that mechanical power valve deal on the exhaust port.
I ran Interceptor @ 40:1 in my Can-Am 370 MX for quite a few yrs after Shell 2T became scarce locally . Also in my current Polaris Assault Axis 850 Twin . My current Polaris RXL Triple ran Dominator pre mix for over 10 yrs until I trialed Red Armor last winter successfully & 50:1 . Really like the Red Armor . P.S. lots of PTO bearing & seal failures within today's Deep Powder Mountain sled models , unless they are warmed up properly they turn bearings with the crazy torgue they produce . Aftermarket twin super bearing pto kits resolve the majority of these problems , prior to the release of the new "Patroit Series" engine platform .
 
I ran Interceptor @ 40:1 in my Can-Am 370 MX for quite a few yrs after Shell 2T became scarce locally . Also in my current Polaris Assault Axis 850 Twin . My current Polaris RXL Triple ran Dominator pre mix for over 10 yrs until I trialed Red Armor last winter successfully & 50:1 . Really like the Red Armor . P.S. lots of PTO bearing & seal failures within today's Deep Powder Mountain sled models , unless they are warmed up properly they turn bearings with the crazy torgue they produce . Aftermarket twin super bearing pto kits resolve the majority of these problems , prior to the release of the new "Patroit Series" engine platform .
You've got some fun toys haha, my Polaris sled is an Ultra 680, infamously slow stock, and a monster when it's piped and tuned. I always had an affinity for the RXLs, sometimes I wish I had one instead of the Ultra (mainly because of the problematic water pump.)
I have some random bottles of synthetic 2 stroke oil around (Interceptor, Klotz, Artic Cat, on and on...) Do you think I should run Red Armor in my KTM? Is it friendly to power valves?
 
You've got some fun toys haha, my Polaris sled is an Ultra 680, infamously slow stock, and a monster when it's piped and tuned. I always had an affinity for the RXLs, sometimes I wish I had one instead of the Ultra (mainly because of the problematic water pump.)
I have some random bottles of synthetic 2 stroke oil around (Interceptor, Klotz, Artic Cat, on and on...) Do you think I should run Red Armor in my KTM? Is it friendly to power valves?
The Red Armor 50:1 premix trial on the 1978 650 RXL , which is piped rather hot , convinced me to run it premixed in my 370 Qualifier that has no power valves of course , the Red Armor has cling qualities. The exhaust is clean though . No sponge or carbon deposits . I have ran interceptor in any engine with power valves after Dominator caused an issue with the 2013 850 Patroit engine on my Assaults valves , deep powder running has that effect at high elevation with big liquid cooled fuel & oil injected twins . On the flats with the throttle wicked up no issues lol. However the Interceptor is a recognized injection oil & a buck cheaper a quart , so it was a no brainer !
 

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