Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[benp]

Didn't pick up that one.

The fit and finish was pretty good on the 8#. Grain was about 90 degree angle from the head of the axe.

That's cool!! At least a little restored faith that some are attempting to do things right.

BTW - I emailed Gardena today to see if there are plans to come out with a 36" version of the splitting axe.

This would be the Ape Arm version of the S2800.

I could give two craps if I was swinging an aqua handled or orange/red splitting axe. All I want is that head design on a 36" handle.

 

[svk]

For 100 bucks for the 2800 I'd definitely want to swing before I buy. I'm sure I could get used to the shorter handle if necessary.

 

[benp]

For 100 bucks for the 2800 I'd definitely want to swing before I buy. I'm sure I could get used to the shorter handle if necessary.

I would spend the $100 on a 36" version but not the 28" with hopes that I could try and get it to work for me.

I have enough skittish moments with the Fiskars let alone something with the eating end 8" closer to me.

 

[Ambull01]

Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age.

Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.

 

[benp]

Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age.

Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.

Your not alone. Trust me.

The ONLY reason why I would spring for that axe is that I am a firm believer in that head design and the fact I couldn't break the handle in the first couple hours of using it.

ETA _ Shouldn't break the handle. lol

 

[Ambull01]

Your not alone. Trust me.

The ONLY reason why I would spring for that axe is that I am a firm believer in that head design and the fact I couldn't break the handle in the first couple hours of using it.

ETA _ Shouldn't break the handle. lol

So it passed the benp test, nice. Companies should pay you to test handles. Put a sticker on it, "Benp Approved".

 

[SteveSS]

My Pop's has one of those red handled ones on the top right, with the wings. I swung it in some pretty straight grained red oak (16") a couple weekends ago. Seemed to do pretty well.

 

[svk]

Guess I'm alone. I'm seeing guys say $100+ is not a bad price for an axe but I was a bit taken aback by the $50-ish price tag on the Fiskars. The thing that made me buy it was the lifetime warranty. I think what really gets me is when I think about it, an axe is just a wooden stick with a sharp metal object attached on the end lol. The thing was probably invented in the stone age.

Anyway, not sure why I just wrote that. I've been wrenching on my new used beautiful old Poulan. Probably huffed gas fumes too long.

Here's my take: It's all relative.

I can rent a splitter for $50 a day. Or I can buy an axe for $50 that allows me to split 98% of what the splitter would have split (noodle the rest) and I can do it at my leisure. I am also getting exercise by swinging the axe and it should last for a lifetime (side note: I've heard there's an urban legend that if you hit the dirt with a cheap axe, it will spontaneously combust. But that hasn't happened to me yet).

Guys drop anywhere from $500 and up to get a pro saw. Then PPE, extra saw chains, sharpeners, winches, chains/cables etc. Then second, third, fourth saw.... So why skimp when it comes to a tool that is going to touch nearly every round that you cut?

You can split it all with an 8# maul. But that's damn hard work. I'd still recommend someone have a 6-8# maul for knotty stuff where a splitting axe has troubles.

 

[benp]

I swung into Fleet this morning to check out their Splitting items.

The splitting mauls were Tupers. Wood handles were 6/8 lbs and the fiberglass ones were 6/8/10 lbs.

I picked up a 10 lb and said screw that noise. lol

This was the average handle grain for the wood handle mauls.

And the grind.

A little fluff and buff and I think the Truper would be good to go. Even though the heads had "Hecho in Mehico" stamped on them, the casting looked good and the head profile/design reminded me of a softer/ not as pronounced Wetterlings. If that makes sense.

I was impressed with the QC of the Trupers. Straight grinds and good handles.

AND speaking of handles......I started going through the replacements for the CT maul. Holee Schmolee.....

This one.....I laughed out loud.

So, now I will be on a quest for a good handle.

 

[El Quachito]

I have to confess I bought a splitter this year and I intend to use it as much as possible. I love pulling that lever. But I still quarter or halve my rounds so I can handle them with no back strain.

It really is all relative, why skimp on a premium axe, why cut with a budget chainsaw? The argument is almost always the same. I first prefer something that works properly for my needs. So for me that makes it a 460 Rancher, a six pound maul, axe and a used splitter. Both the saw and splitter were the best I could afford and I value them both very much. The mauls are a homely bunch, but they are good tools.

 

[El Quachito]

Mexican steel files like butter or lead from my experiences.

 

[svk]

I swung into Fleet this morning to check out their Splitting items.

The splitting mauls were Tupers. Wood handles were 6/8 lbs and the fiberglass ones were 6/8/10 lbs.

I picked up a 10 lb and said screw that noise. lol

This was the average handle grain for the wood handle mauls.

And the grind.

A little fluff and buff and I think the Truper would be good to go. Even though the heads had "Hecho in Mehico" stamped on them, the casting looked good and the head profile/design reminded me of a softer/ not as pronounced Wetterlings. If that makes sense.

I was impressed with the QC of the Trupers. Straight grinds and good handles.

AND speaking of handles......I started going through the replacements for the CT maul. Holee Schmolee.....

This one.....I laughed out loud.

So, now I will be on a quest for a good handle.

Mills? Or L and M?

That's definitely a close OE match for the CT handle

 

[benp]

L&M Fleet.

I wish it was a Mills....

 

[svk]

My friend has one of those glass handled 3.5# axes. It's pretty nice but one of his employees cracked the handle inside the head so we've got to locate a replacement.

 

[Philbert]

I like L&M of the four: Mill's, L&M, Blain's, Runnings. Especially for saw stuff.


Philbert

 

[benp]

I like L&M of the four: Mill's, L&M, Blain's, Runnings. Especially for saw stuff.


Philbert

I agree about the saw stuff. Ours a has a good selection of Husky, Jonsered, and Stihl. I see a lot of Husky 555/562 AT's and 372/576's disappear from their shelf.

Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.

 

[svk]

I agree about the saw stuff. Ours a has a good selection of Husky, Jonsered, and Stihl. I see a lot of Husky 555/562 AT's and 372/576's disappear from their shelf.

Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.

Agree as well. Although they used to have a locally owned feel despite being a chain. That definitely has been lost.

We rarely see a saw over 365/2166 up this way. But they do a huge volume of sales which allows them to offer a lower price.

 

[Philbert]

Our L&M went through a huge improvement once Maynard's opened up right on their back stoop.

And I remember how Menard's went through a big improvement when Home Depot came to town!
(Builder's Square and Knox just left town when that happened).

I have only visited the L&M near Virginia, MN. The Mills stores near the city seem to be more focused on general merchandise than hard core farm and implement stuff.

Philbert

 

[svk]

And I remember how Menard's went through a big improvement when Home Depot came to town!
(Builder's Square and Knox just left town).

I have only visited the L&M near Virginia, MN. The Mills stores near the city seem to be more focused on general merchandise than hard core farm and implement stuff.

Philbert

That's the one I go to. You should have seen the tiny spot they started out at in town.

They've significantly increased their hunting, clothing, and horse/farm gear over the past couple of years.

 

[Ambull01]

Here's my take: It's all relative.

I can rent a splitter for $50 a day. Or I can buy an axe for $50 that allows me to split 98% of what the splitter would have split (noodle the rest) and I can do it at my leisure. I am also getting exercise by swinging the axe and it should last for a lifetime (side note: I've heard there's an urban legend that if you hit the dirt with a cheap axe, it will spontaneously combust. But that hasn't happened to me yet).

Guys drop anywhere from $500 and up to get a pro saw. Then PPE, extra saw chains, sharpeners, winches, chains/cables etc. Then second, third, fourth saw.... So why skimp when it comes to a tool that is going to touch nearly every round that you cut?

You can split it all with an 8# maul. But that's damn hard work. I'd still recommend someone have a 6-8# maul for knotty stuff where a splitting axe has troubles.

lol. Man, I love how you always take potshots at a certain someone regarding the Fiskars.

Well you really do need a pro level saw to cut firewood, it's a proven fact. If I could, I would probably take this Makita back and just buy a few more old Poulans. Maybe a 475 or 8500. I don't understand why people aren't falling over themselves trying to snatch these saws off the market.

I have to confess I bought a splitter this year and I intend to use it as much as possible. I love pulling that lever. But I still quarter or halve my rounds so I can handle them with no back strain.

It really is all relative, why skimp on a premium axe, why cut with a budget chainsaw? The argument is almost always the same. I first prefer something that works properly for my needs. So for me that makes it a 460 Rancher, a six pound maul, axe and a used splitter. Both the saw and splitter were the best I could afford and I value them both very much. The mauls are a homely bunch, but they are good tools.

Isn't a 460 Rancher considered a budget saw, in Stihl terms? I can definitely see splurging a bit on a splitter. An axe, no way. I'm not going to fell trees all day long Paul Bunyan style.