Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[benp]

Cool. Now put some 400 grit to it over an adult beverage tonight.

I put some 320 to it as it was all there was readily available.

I draw the line. I'm done with it. Worst comes to worst I have another splitting tool.

Imo, this is a 1911 vs glock discussion.

The 1911 guys do not like any polymer pistols and the glock guys can't understand the 7 rounds.

I have both and I like both a lot.

 

[MechanicMatt]

Nice comparison, well put

 

[zogger]

Svk I took your advice.

Before.

After. To quote Jayne Cobb.....shiny.

It's also smooth and soft to the touch. If that makes sense.


That picture was after I took it out and tried it. Still hung up in a piece of black ash and I hopefully feel that is my learning curve with this.

The grain pic for Zog. I "think" this is what he meant. I learned a lot from the how to change a handle thread.

Yes, that is clearer. You can see it is a little sideways from ideal, which would be grain parallel with the head, long ways. Any direction will work, oriented straight just makes a stronger handle.

 

[UnforsakenGhost]

Nice thread, I always assumed that on mauls it didn't matter blunt or not, it was the weight that counts, the more I read the more I learn lol

 

[MechanicMatt]

Mikey517, I too believe yours has a bit of a crooked head, not too bad but a bit off.
CT, man those pics of the maple splits with the evident crushed fibers really drives home the fact that sharp tools work better.

 

[CTYank]

Well, the Council Tools 6lb maul showed up today.

Inital inpressions.......

I like the balance and the weight.

I UNDERSTAND every company spits out a Friday/Monday product. I get that that. No harm, no foul. Things happen. I UNDERSTAND this.

Here is this the maul from the side. What is that buldge in the middle?

As I mentioned earlier, the "lumps" behind the edge seem to be intentional, as they're consistent. If you put a bevel on the head near the edge, it's clear that they form a kind of "first wave" of steel, apparently to keep the bulk of the actual splitting confined to that area. After some use, the wood marks there seem to confirm that. I sure would NOT dress them down, not on my maul.

Again with a bevel on the edge end of the head, the angle of the head in that area is right about what seems to be the "sweet spot" of the effective mauls I've encountered- 30 degrees. Just another reason I wouldn't jump at futzing with it.

As mentioned, mine got just a few minutes with a sanding drum in a Dremel, to sharpen the edge and blend down the ridge behind the edge. With that, it works fine IMHO. The faces seemed sufficiently smooth, so they got no polishing, whatever. Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.

 

[Ambull01]

As I mentioned earlier, the "lumps" behind the edge seem to be intentional, as they're consistent. If you put a bevel on the head near the edge, it's clear that they form a kind of "first wave" of steel, apparently to keep the bulk of the actual splitting confined to that area. After some use, the wood marks there seem to confirm that. I sure would NOT dress them down, not on my maul.

Again with a bevel on the edge end of the head, the angle of the head in that area is right about what seems to be the "sweet spot" of the effective mauls I've encountered- 30 degrees. Just another reason I wouldn't jump at futzing with it.

As mentioned, mine got just a few minutes with a sanding drum in a Dremel, to sharpen the edge and blend down the ridge behind the edge. With that, it works fine IMHO. The faces seemed sufficiently smooth, so they got no polishing, whatever. Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.

If getting rid of the ridge behind the edge is so beneficial, why don't companies sell them without the ridge? Seems like an easy fix. R&D should be pretty simple too. Try splitting with the ridge then without.

 

[CTYank]

Mikey517, I too believe yours has a bit of a crooked head, not too bad but a bit off.
CT, man those pics of the maple splits with the evident crushed fibers really drives home the fact that sharp tools work better.

C'mon Matt. You've had some trigger-time on chainsaws, and that's news? (Not denying that it was an "aha" moment to me.)

Again, to paraphrase Bob, instead of addressing comments to "CT" might as well call out to "John". Both are ambiguous and neither will generate an alert. Go for "@" prepended to user-id, and git-r-done.

Talking about a crooked head, a bit off, how 'bout that funky $110 Finnish widget? People pay extra for getting 'em mule-kicked.

 

[CTYank]

If getting rid of the ridge behind the edge is so beneficial, why don't companies sell them without the ridge? Seems like an easy fix. R&D should be pretty simple too. Try splitting with the ridge then without.

Easy. In the current USofA, lawyers and accountants rule. Why do you think so many edge tools are shipped as bludgeons? Sharp edges are dangerous- so, you got cut with an axe you put a razor-edge on, your bad- "no mi trabajo, pendejo" or similar.

For a tool that can sell in the twenties, don't expect to have it run through a serious sharpening. I've a Mueller and a Wetterlings maul. Both have received serious professional work around the edge. But then, they cost.

Having some clues from seeing a Mueller & a Wetterlings, what I did was a no-brainer. Took me minutes. I was just delighted that the head is made of some really good tool-steel. That's a rarity, most especially for the price.

You seem to think business decisions are made logically, purely in the best interests of the end-user. Good luck with that.

 

[Ambull01]

Easy. In the current USofA, lawyers and accountants rule. Why do you think so many edge tools are shipped as bludgeons? Sharp edges are dangerous- so, you got cut with an axe you put a razor-edge on, your bad- "no mi trabajo, pendejo" or similar.

For a tool that can sell in the twenties, don't expect to have it run through a serious sharpening. I've a Mueller and a Wetterlings maul. Both have received serious professional work around the edge. But then, they cost.

Having some clues from seeing a Mueller & a Wetterlings, what I did was a no-brainer. Took me minutes. I was just delighted that the head is made of some really good tool-steel. That's a rarity, most especially for the price.

You seem to think business decisions are made logically, purely in the best interests of the end-user. Good luck with that.

Hmm, well that sort of makes sense I guess. Although, my question was mainly about the ridge. Seems like an easy fix. If they're concerned about idiots injuring themselves then ship it dull with no ridge. Fiskars axe is sharp as hell and it works fairly well. People that split wood with it rave about it (well most of them) and pushed me into buying one. Seems it would make sense financially for the business to make a tool that actually works. Tack on an additional $5 to the maul and ship it with a plastic blade cover like the Fiskars.

 

[svk]

Hard to figure how someone who's never used one would even suggest that. Not inclined to that sort of arrogance.

You just can't lay off, can you.

Please explain how a rough surface could possibly travel through wood easier than a smooth surface?

SMH. We can agree to disagree but this kind of stuff is simply childish. Grow up.

 

[mdavlee]

Hickory

 

[Ambull01]

You just can't lay off, can you.

Please explain how a rough surface could possibly travel through wood easier than a smooth surface?

SMH. We can agree to disagree but this kind of stuff is simply childish. Grow up.

Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.

 

[svk]

Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.

I keep an open mind, some others feel the need to discriminate against tools because of the shape of the head or the make up of their handle. In this case they are creating a biased opinion of splitting tools while failing to sample a good portion of the available models.

Like I have said before, there are two groups of people in here. One group who makes a lot of firewood and another group who talks about it.

 

[zogger]

Man, ya'll are serious about your splitting tools lol. Perhaps discussing splitting preferences are a bit like talking about religion and politics, can't be done without losing tempers.

Hey, you gotta keep up with things! You lose temper if you burn the old busted handle out of the head!

read it on the internets...

 

[Ambull01]

Hey, you gotta keep up with things! You lose temper if you burn the old busted handle out of the head!

read it on the internets...

I'm trying to keep up lol. When I start reading about metallurgy my head starts to spin. I just want to know what works. K.I.S.S.

 

[svk]

I'm trying to keep up lol. When I start reading about metallurgy my head starts to spin. I just want to know what works. K.I.S.S.

Well you already have 1/2 of a perfect 2 axe plan IMO. Find a good heavier maul for difficult stuff.

Some would have you believe their choice of product is the only one. We know better than that.

 

[Ambull01]

Well you already have 1/2 of a perfect 2 axe plan IMO. Find a good heavier maul for difficult stuff.

Some would have you believe their choice of product is the only one. We know better than that.

Roger that. I think I may just go with a sledge or CT/Collins maul. If the Fiskars or maul fails to split the round in 4-5 whacks, I'll noodle it with the saw. Anyway, this thread was awesome. Helped make my mind up. Keep up the good work fellas.

 

[svk]

Roger that. I think I may just go with a sledge or CT/Collins maul. If the Fiskars or maul fails to split the round in 4-5 whacks, I'll noodle it with the saw. Anyway, this thread was awesome. Helped make my mind up. Keep up the good work fellas.

You are right on there.

A maul does split tough wood better than a Fiskars or any splitting axe. Difference is you can swing a 3.5-4.5 splitting axe (regardless of brand) all day. You can't do that with a maul unless you are the hulk. Different tools for different uses. But some just cant see it that way.

 

[svk]

I know a guy who is retired and works at a very slow pace. In 8 hours in the woods he may work 1.5-2 hours and spend the rest sitting on the tailgate putzing with his tools and shooting the breeze.

If you work 15 minutes then take a 45 minute break it really doesn't matter if you are using a 13 lb "anvil on a stick", a 6 lb maul, or a splitting axe. You aren't working hard enough to get tired. OTOH if you want results, you pick the best tool for the job to maximize output while minimizing energy input.