Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread
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spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
@hamish, I got no interest in the Husky splitter. As you may know it is built by Ariens, and I'm an Ariens dealer. Both the 22 amd 27 ton Ariens are a much better deal than the Husky unit. What they've given Husky is a joke really. They have taken the 22 ton frame, (without the nice jackstand which has been replaced with a troy bilt style stand), and made it a 27 ton. For $1799. Crazy marketing. Got to think it will be a flop.
I've done great with the Ariens splitters. Mostly 22's, but I can finance the 27's with Sheffield @ 0% for 36 months so that has been an option for a customer who doesn't have the cash to lay out. People around here like the Subaru engiones that Ariens uses also.
I've done great with the Ariens splitters. Mostly 22's, but I can finance the 27's with Sheffield @ 0% for 36 months so that has been an option for a customer who doesn't have the cash to lay out. People around here like the Subaru engiones that Ariens uses also.
Doggone you gentlemen, I couldn't take it any longer. I was just fine and dandy with my dull no name 8 lb maul until reading this thread for the past week. I've just finished placing my order for the 6 lb council tool model and will report back on its performance.
I've almost made it a full year without buying a saw, and now I fear CAD can spread to other firewood tools as well!
Good thread and good info. There may be some hair-splitting (pardon the pun) with some of the info but it's all interesting and maybe make the stacks grow a little easier too. Thanks!
I've almost made it a full year without buying a saw, and now I fear CAD can spread to other firewood tools as well!
Good thread and good info. There may be some hair-splitting (pardon the pun) with some of the info but it's all interesting and maybe make the stacks grow a little easier too. Thanks!
Pretty much what I thought, I was afraid to put a box of beer on it in fear that it might fallover! When released it was $2499 up here, now its only $2199, and cheaped up over the Ariens as you have mentioned. I can buy a Ariens at my local Sthil dealer for almost my cost on the Husky one.
Oh why can't I be an Ariens dealer!
Where have I been?? Did I miss something?? Ariens makes the Huskee sold at Tractor Supply??
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Can somebody else please read post 141 specifically the question #1 to mikey517, then read post 168 first paragraph.........
When you buy one of those dull cheapo mauls are you supposed to grind there flaws off or leave them, because the "lumps" seem to be intentional?
When you buy one of those dull cheapo mauls are you supposed to grind there flaws off or leave them, because the "lumps" seem to be intentional?
Now, now. Matt, do you know what I meant in #168 by a "bevel"? It's a measuring tool that you use to measure an angle, in this case I was talking about the angle of the head. When you do that with the Council 6-pounder over the bulges near the edge, you see clearly how up to the bulges the angle of the head is ~30 deg., as on Mueller and Wetterlings mauls. That does not continue behind the bulges; the head is well away from the bevel in that area.
What do you mean by "supposed to"? Does not compute here. My tack was to remove the minimum, period, with maybe five minutes invested with Dremel & sanding drum. Nothing like what Steve induced @benp to do. Because of seeing that most of the splitting work is done in the first 3/4" to 1" of entry into the wood, that region was my focus. As noted earlier, on later using the maul, it was clear to me from seeing marks from the wood on the bulges, those bulges were effective in spreading the splits. Then seeing the same on other mauls, as I said, ... What's the hard part here?
What anyone else wants to do with whatever, that's no mi trabajo. My intent was to remove the minimum metal with my maul to get the job done. It's real hard to put it back on, never mind restore the effect of the heat-treatment, one thing that differentiates it big-time from some Finnish tools.
IMO, there's a huge difference between "cheapo" and low-priced, using both regularly. This repetitious stuff is getting boring.
Or, maybe package up inquiries for a future GTG, where we won't have to be distracted with bizarre tools. There'll be an assortment of tools to try and hopefully @spike60 could bring a demo of the new Husqy tool.@mikey517 just look for threads on upcoming NY-area GTGs. You may have to contact the host beforehand- no biggie; sometimes there are space limitations. There's no private distribution on this info. Hopefully this answers your earlier question.
Good post John. (Pardon my partial quote due to length)
That conversation we had opened my eyes, as I thought that the factory edge on most of this stuff was good enough. "Hey, it's only a maul." Like you, I was wasting energy swinging dull tools. It sure doesn't take a lot of work to touch up those edges, and the nice edge I put on my Collins 6lb maul does make a noticeable difference. I think it's common thinking that a maul really doesn't need to be sharp, but that's just not the case. I just touched up a cheapo maul for a buddy that had an edge that could be described as "factory indifference + years of abuse". He thought the idea was a waste of time until he tried it after I sharpened it. Then he brought over two more of them.
That lesson, plus using my old axes for the lighter stuff are the kind of useful things that we can pick up from these discussions.
@mikey517 and I did some splitting with the 22 ton Ariens at the GTG here back in OCT. And I noticed him positioning the blocks to be split much like he did with the hand splitting. Just a slightly different way to attack the block to be split, whether by hand or hydraulic. I usually take the same route that John does. Half, quarter, and on down. Does one method lend itself better to some tools than others I wonder?
Bob, not trying to get cute or picky, but now you see why you raised my pucker-factor big-time a couple years ago at Jimmy's when you tried my Mueller maul on rounds sitting on the dirt. At that point in time, my assumption was that the Austrian smiths wouldn't have honed such a nice edge just for show, and that stones in frozen dirt wouldn't have helped at all. For me, taking a few seconds to put a round up on a block doesn't waste time, in the long run. Now we have "proof" of why a sharp edge is desirable.
Another possibly interesting point re Mueller 3 kg maul, it arrived with only the first inch or so back from the edge polished. Seems they saw no value to going further. With use over 3 years, that polished region has extended back further, like some graying at the temples.
Why are you so upset about this? Are you jealous that @benp has the best looking CT maul on AS now? You say you don't care what others do but you've already shamed two different CT owners. Interesting that you are apparently now the self appointed CT police and obviously an expert being you've probably split three rounds with yours. Not only that, if you look back to my post you will see that I posed a question about the smoothness, nothing more.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
No Mike. Huskee, with the 2 E's is a TSC house brand. Their splitters are made by Speeco, and their tractors and snow blowers are made by MTD.
Husky with a Y is Husqvarna. Ariens makes their splitter and some of the turf renovation units. Husqvarna in turn makes the Ariens tractors and some push mowers.
@hamish, I'm very happy they laid an egg with this new splitter, cause there are too many husky dealers in the area, and I'm the only Ariens dealer. That's another reason that I only sell the Ariens snow product. That plus our tech says if we ever sell any more Husky snowblowers he's gonna quit.! It's really not a good blower at all, and the supposed redesign is nothing more than some cosmetic updates. Things that fail, like the chute rotator, or the drive gears, can only be purchased in expensive kits. Belt life is short. Who the heck came up with the cast iron impeller idea on the 300 series? LOL No offense to our Southern members, but snowblowers shouldn't be designed in South Carolina.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
Guys, I spoke to Jimmy yesterday and the GTG is on providing he gets a load of logs brought in. I also know the logger involved and told him it's not just firewood, it's a party. I think we'll be OK.
John, I will bring one of the new Husky S2800's to the GTG. I still haven't tried one yet myself. And all splitting will done on raised blocks.
But understand that I was operating from the previous mindset that mauls aren't, and don't need to be sharp when I drove your's into the ground that day. And you and Steve need to stop bickering or you're both getting sent to the principal's office. LOL
Hey guys first post here, I love splitting wood by hand and thought the friskars was pretty attractive, but was just looking for a splitting axe with a replaceable handle and after many hours of searching found this:
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4...l-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath
I liked it because it seems to have a similar style head to friskars but with a wood handle. It will be used to split everything I encounter. I currently own a craftsman splitting maul that was given to me, so I think almost anything will be an improvement.
Any thoughts?
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4...l-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath
I liked it because it seems to have a similar style head to friskars but with a wood handle. It will be used to split everything I encounter. I currently own a craftsman splitting maul that was given to me, so I think almost anything will be an improvement.
Any thoughts?
Welcome to the site!
Not a lot of data on this tool but the one review recommends it for difficult wood. Not sure what the user's idea of "difficult" is so take it with a grain of salt. At that price it wouldn't hurt to give it a try and let us know. As you spend time in here you will notice that certain tools may get a cult following LOL. Perhaps this could be the next one....
zogger
Tree Freak
Might be OK, who knows until you try one!
Put an edge on the craftsman you have, that should work good too.
Put an edge on the craftsman you have, that should work good too.
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yeah, welcome to the site @86indy. 
That head seems more similar to the head on my Total maul, but with a wood handle. It's OK, and it will work. But that style head falls short of my others. That's just my opinion, and that's all this thread is, our opinions. Plus we've got everything under the microscope here looking for details that most people would never notice or pay attention to. That being said, you do notice differences between these tools when comparing them, and naturally there will be some likes and dislikes.
And, I'd bet that your Craftsman maul would benefit from working up a sharp edge like we've been discussing here. Only takes a few minutes and makes a world of difference.
That head seems more similar to the head on my Total maul, but with a wood handle. It's OK, and it will work. But that style head falls short of my others. That's just my opinion, and that's all this thread is, our opinions. Plus we've got everything under the microscope here looking for details that most people would never notice or pay attention to. That being said, you do notice differences between these tools when comparing them, and naturally there will be some likes and dislikes.
And, I'd bet that your Craftsman maul would benefit from working up a sharp edge like we've been discussing here. Only takes a few minutes and makes a world of difference.
Welcome to AS!
Key difference with the Fiskars is that almost all of the weight is focused in the head - hence the hollow, composite handle. Less overall weight. Less fatiguing. It's replaceable: free with a phone call or e-mail.
Can't say that the heads are that similar. The one you show has more flare. Could only really compare them by splitting side-by-side.
Philbert
Thanks for the welcome guys!
Im 19 and enjoy splitting wood in the summer a few days a week (that's an odd thing in todays times isnt it? haha) so I'm not entirely concerned about it being fatiguing I dont mind the exercise, I just want a nice tool that has the potential to be passed on eventually. I have noticed the cult around certain brands, one of those would be Wetterlings...But I dont have $150+++ for a splitting tool, thats almost my budget for a new to me saw
. I should try and sharpen and polish the Craftsman I have..can anyone direct me to a How To? I dont wanna mess up the tool, that would be a shame.
Im just hate relying on friskars for the replacement....
Ive also found myself to prefer a little longer handles for splitting (Im 6' tall)
@spike60 what is your preference out of the ones your own?
Thanks guys!
Im 19 and enjoy splitting wood in the summer a few days a week (that's an odd thing in todays times isnt it? haha) so I'm not entirely concerned about it being fatiguing I dont mind the exercise, I just want a nice tool that has the potential to be passed on eventually. I have noticed the cult around certain brands, one of those would be Wetterlings...But I dont have $150+++ for a splitting tool, thats almost my budget for a new to me saw
. I should try and sharpen and polish the Craftsman I have..can anyone direct me to a How To? I dont wanna mess up the tool, that would be a shame.Im just hate relying on friskars for the replacement....
Ive also found myself to prefer a little longer handles for splitting (Im 6' tall)
@spike60 what is your preference out of the ones your own?
Thanks guys!
woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
The shape of that head will make it likely to stick in a round without splitting, if you buy it plan on learning the flip and only splitting woods that pop apart fairly easily. I'm not a fan of the fiskers but it will split better than the condor will. The x27 has a 36 inch length so it is longer than the condor.
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