Sprocket nose replacement

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z4lunch

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Steve here...
Do any of you guys have any hot tips on flatening out the rivets when you replace a sprocket nose. Should I just use a hammer or put it in my arbor press. What will get them the flatest and smoothest.
Thanks,
Steve
 
I think the got a cheaper version of the bars and an expensive one.
 
Stihl bars

B Walker,
Steve here... I bought them from a guy in Texas on Ebay. They are marked Made in WEST Germany. I would guess there at least 15 to 20 years old. They have 404 tips and i'm putting 3/8 tips on them. The 404 tips, that came on the bars have 6 rivets holding the pin wheel in and grease holes. The new tips have 4 rivets and no grease holes. The one bar is 17" and the other is 21" both large mount 063 rails. The tails are a little taller than any of my other bars, exept my 60" belly bar. I will post a couple pics of the differences.
Steve
 
I have always peened my rivets over with a 12 ounce ball peen. Then maybe take the high spots off on the belt sander.

There should be a little chamfer on the holes in the new tip on the side you are peening. If there isn't, put a little there. That way you can smooth the tops off the peening job a bit and still have good metal holding the tip.

I've changed very few tips over the years,mostly in cases were I wanted to change the pitch on the bar.

That hammer you had sitting there was a joke, I hope.
 
Last edited:
When I change tips, I always use the old rivet or rivets...they may not appear that they will be good, but trust me...they will never come out and there is no belt sanding or excess hammering. I can honestly say that I have changed in excess of several thousand bar tips. If it is necessary to use a new rivet, peaning over with the hammer and a belt sander to follow is the easiest route as Tony said. Too much hammering on a rivet can cause cracking or splaying of the tip edges(mostly found on Oregon PM single rivet tips).
 

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