Starting the splitter build.
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You may get away with it. May not. 1/2" for the top plate of the beam would be better. As well as the slider for the push plate. The clamp plates should be fine, I'd have to go out and measure mine for bolt spacing, think it's closer to 8-10" long with the bolts around 1" apart. I had fewer bolts before and snapped the lower side plate off when the push plate twisted. It's worked fine since.
Make sure you have some good gussets for the front of the push plate to the slider plate, and make a bunch of tack welds along the face of the push plate to give it some "grip" on the wood. Another mistake I made on it. Every now and ten it would send a hunk of wood out at suoer sonic speeds from slipping off the push plate.
Make sure you have some good gussets for the front of the push plate to the slider plate, and make a bunch of tack welds along the face of the push plate to give it some "grip" on the wood. Another mistake I made on it. Every now and ten it would send a hunk of wood out at suoer sonic speeds from slipping off the push plate.
James Sawyer
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My Dad had 4 lawn engines on this one. The 1st one was a 12.5hp briggs that I rebuilt. He was cutting 5 cords a day and I think that motor lasted about 5 years. As for a couple don't use a love-joy especially one for a electric motor they last about 1/3 of what a gas motor coupler would. We went to sprockets between the motor and pump and a double roller chain. Never replaced another coupler. The I-beam is just a standard run of the mill 12" I beam. I welded 1" plates to mount the ram and the splitter is all made out 1" plate except couple pieces of heavy angle iron. The foot is made out of water tank flange I think its 1 or 1" or 1 1/4" plate and has a slight dish to it. One thing I would do is mount a removable table on each side.
I believe Northern Tool still sales a lot of splitter parts, it's where I bought my pump and control valve and filter. They also they sale tanks.
There are a lot of worn-out decks on rider mower that still have good motors. That how I got his 1st motor and I cut the dash out for control plane, a course a lot of the dashes are plastic now. If you buy a two stage pump you can get bit faster cycle time, but I'd look for a 5" ram. Really glad we use a 5".
On the I beam I welded some angle as guide for splitter as it traveled down the beam, wish I'd had use 3/8 angle instead of 1/4. Later we had to heat up and hammered the guide back in place and weld in gussets. If I had a plasma I would just cut and replaced it. Dad loaned the splitter to a friend who was splitting some nary grain oak, and he didn't know enough to back off and let the wood and ram recenter before finishing the split. That splitter rated at something like 47 tons so it got some power. Bent the guide both side... you know oh... we all heard the sorry from friends.... I didn't know excuse, thanks and walked away.
This may give you some ideas. I show how to make a mount for the engine/pump easily. I'f suggest using long sweep 90's or straight loops to combat heat issues. I'm running a 28 GPM on my 5 inch.
https://imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter
https://imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter
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I'd suggest staying away from knotty stuff or rounds with angled cuts on the pusher side. The pusher block looks a little light to take abuse.
This is what I got 3/8 top plate 1/4 steel post I’ve heard will work with plenty of gussets weld holes to top plate to I don’t know
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Are your fluid temps high? That's a lot of fluid going through hard 90's. Generally you want a cylinder with the ports up so you can make long sweeps to avoid some of that.
With a 5 inch cylinder and the frame used I think you may have issues with tougher stuff. Take it slow and avoid nasty stuff.
FYI : I used a 6 x 8 Box beam with 1/2" walls. added 1/2" x 5" plates on both sides. I went with a box on a box for pusher. From working/repairing splitters, this will last a lot longer and the more length the better as you have less chance of side twist. I went with 16 inches on mine. I will tell you, when dealing with nastys where it's basically shearing through, I will get some beam spring with a 5 inch cylinder. I made a 4 way for mine but rarely use it. Multi's just make to much smalls for me and I deal with lots of knotty wood. I cut 24" long as well. It all depends on what wood you have but I think your beam may be weak for a 5 inch.
https://photos.imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter/20230809_104821.mp4
I agree, I have a heavy I beam on my splitter, 3/4 center and 1/2" legs. Anytime you get into the heavy knotted stuff you can bow it. Not ideal. Next one I'm using mic channel to get a double I beam with a 3/4" top plate added on. Possibly go with a 6" cylinder as well, still undecided at this point. The next one will have a hydraulic wedge, and self centering table. Screwed that up on my current splitter. Made a bolt on wedge and it sucks.FYI : I used a 6 x 8 Box beam with 1/2" walls. added 1/2" x 5" plates on both sides. I went with a box on a box for pusher. From working/repairing splitters, this will last a lot longer and the more length the better as you have less chance of side twist. I went with 16 inches on mine. I will tell you, when dealing with nastys where it's basically shearing through, I will get some beam spring with a 5 inch cylinder. I made a 4 way for mine but rarely use it. Multi's just make to much smalls for me and I deal with lots of knotty wood. I cut 24" long as well. It all depends on what wood you have but I think your beam may be weak for a 5 inch.
https://photos.imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter/20230809_104821.mp4
That's why it hard to say what is "best". Everyones situation is different. If I was selling, production or having logs on site, then a processor or push through would be best. I cut on site and mostly on our land. When dealing with large stuff I can not lift, I buck up the log and back down the log length woth the dplitter. Swivel hoist allows me to do that. Throw to the side then back the truck in on the same path and load from the sides. Works great for me but for others it would not.
If you go 6 inch, watch using bolts to hook the slide onto the beam. That is another reason I like the box on a box design. I had a buddy who did that and it would shear bolts and shoot them like rockets when it did. He was powering it from a large backhoe. I saw that thing shear 12 inch wood sideways. LOL
I'm mostly for myself and family. (Somehow I got the **** award for doing all of my dad's wood now too. Lol) I do my best to bring long lengths home, and process everything here.
I'll keep in mind about the bolts on the pusher, the 6" cylinder is available to me for "free". I had planned a modified version of my current push plate,but may re-evaluate I'd the need arises.
Problem with the 6 inch is speed. You'd want at least a 28GPM and run a bypass. Then coolers some into play as well. There is the cool factor but for 95% of what we do it isn't needed unless you have a 6 way plus.
Next "splitter" is going to be akin to a mini processor. Whenever I get around to it, I'll start a build thread on here.
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Depends on what you're splitting, I run a 5" on mine. Probably could get away with a 4" for 70% of my splitting needs.
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