Stihl 024AV Clutch/Oil Pump Question

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autobaun70

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going through an old 024AV, and doing seals. From what I have read this is the "old style" oil pump drive. Before getting it apart I ordered a new clutch drum as the spur drum that was on it is fairly worn. The replacement that came in has a deeper cup, and the notch for the newer plastic worm drive wire. Will this work in place of the older style drum without modifying the oil pump/pump drive?

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Oil pump/drive

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Will this work in place of the older style drum without modifying the oil pump/pump drive?
I think it will rub on the case. Too thick. I have one that I ordered it before I knew there were two different ones and got the new version. I have access to a lathe at work, so I trimmed it the width of the old drum.
 
I think it will rub on the case. Too thick. I have one that I ordered it before I knew there were two different ones and got the new version. I have access to a lathe at work, so I trimmed it the width of the old drum.

Any idea what the part number is for the smaller version? Was trying not to open the incorrect one but can’t seem to find the smaller version.

Hadn’t thought about cutting it down. May just do that. I have several lathes at work
 
All back together. Ended up turning down the replacement drum. Spur drum isn't completely gone, but not great either. I could find new shallow spur drums in several places, but nobody had the ring drums in stock anywhere. I was surprised at how hard the clutch drum steel was. Not an issue to cut, but definitely very hard.

Jug looked great. Saw has all new OEM rubber/seals other than the main case seal and oiler output hose, new rings & piston, and cleaned up. Waiting on new fuel/oil caps, and a brake tension spring and it should be good to go. Hopefully have time to test run it and run in the rings this evening.
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Got it running this evening. Does all the normal chainsaw things. Drools oil, smokes a bit, stinks, makes lots of noise that annoys the Prius driving neighbors.

Does most of the optional chainsaw things too…stays running, idles, cranks without being an a**hole. Hopefully it will make power too.

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Sounds like it's too late to be helpful, but I ran into the same issue about a year ago. The solution for me was the same -- turn the extra width off on the lathe.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/024-026-clutch-drum-confusion.370978/

Perfect. Appears that if you remove the inside cover and replace both the clutch and drum, the newer version works. Turning it down was easy enough to not warrant that extra expense. Nice to know of that option should the need arise in the future. I didn't even think about using a collet mount at the time, but that makes sense. We have a bunch used for specific manufacturing tasks, and mostly old south bend manual stuff for maintenance tasks, that are typically running 3 jaws. I was pleasantly surprised at how true the outer dome was. Set it with a flat bearing tailstock and it was pretty much spot on measuring off the rim and the bearing surface.
 
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