Stihl 024AV Clutch/Oil Pump Question

[autobaun70]

going through an old 024AV, and doing seals. From what I have read this is the "old style" oil pump drive. Before getting it apart I ordered a new clutch drum as the spur drum that was on it is fairly worn. The replacement that came in has a deeper cup, and the notch for the newer plastic worm drive wire. Will this work in place of the older style drum without modifying the oil pump/pump drive?



Oil pump/drive

 

[64poncho]

Will this work in place of the older style drum without modifying the oil pump/pump drive?

I think it will rub on the case. Too thick. I have one that I ordered it before I knew there were two different ones and got the new version. I have access to a lathe at work, so I trimmed it the width of the old drum.

 

[autobaun70]

I think it will rub on the case. Too thick. I have one that I ordered it before I knew there were two different ones and got the new version. I have access to a lathe at work, so I trimmed it the width of the old drum.

Any idea what the part number is for the smaller version? Was trying not to open the incorrect one but can’t seem to find the smaller version.

Hadn’t thought about cutting it down. May just do that. I have several lathes at work

 

[autobaun70]

All back together. Ended up turning down the replacement drum. Spur drum isn't completely gone, but not great either. I could find new shallow spur drums in several places, but nobody had the ring drums in stock anywhere. I was surprised at how hard the clutch drum steel was. Not an issue to cut, but definitely very hard.

Jug looked great. Saw has all new OEM rubber/seals other than the main case seal and oiler output hose, new rings & piston, and cleaned up. Waiting on new fuel/oil caps, and a brake tension spring and it should be good to go. Hopefully have time to test run it and run in the rings this evening.

 

[HumBurner]

You've given me food for thought on an issue I had with some 024s when I converted to 3/8 and rim instead of the spur.

Thanks!

 

[nedsim]

Sounds like it's too late to be helpful, but I ran into the same issue about a year ago. The solution for me was the same -- turn the extra width off on the lathe.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/024-026-clutch-drum-confusion.370978/

 

[autobaun70]

Got it running this evening. Does all the normal chainsaw things. Drools oil, smokes a bit, stinks, makes lots of noise that annoys the Prius driving neighbors.

Does most of the optional chainsaw things too…stays running, idles, cranks without being an a**hole. Hopefully it will make power too.

 

[autobaun70]

Sounds like it's too late to be helpful, but I ran into the same issue about a year ago. The solution for me was the same -- turn the extra width off on the lathe.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/024-026-clutch-drum-confusion.370978/

Perfect. Appears that if you remove the inside cover and replace both the clutch and drum, the newer version works. Turning it down was easy enough to not warrant that extra expense. Nice to know of that option should the need arise in the future. I didn't even think about using a collet mount at the time, but that makes sense. We have a bunch used for specific manufacturing tasks, and mostly old south bend manual stuff for maintenance tasks, that are typically running 3 jaws. I was pleasantly surprised at how true the outer dome was. Set it with a flat bearing tailstock and it was pretty much spot on measuring off the rim and the bearing surface.

 

[nedsim]

Perfect. Appears that if you remove the inside cover and replace both the clutch and drum, the newer version works. Turning it down was easy enough to not warrant that extra expense. Nice to know of that option should the need arise in the future. I didn't even think about using a collet mount at the time, but that makes sense. We have a bunch used for specific manufacturing tasks, and mostly old south bend manual stuff for maintenance tasks, that are typically running 3 jaws. I was pleasantly surprised at how true the outer dome was. Set it with a flat bearing tailstock and it was pretty much spot on measuring off the rim and the bearing surface.

I imagine I used a collet to avoid the chance of the thin, hard clutch bell slipping in a chuck. Or the collet closer was already on the lathe and I didn't feel like swapping it out...

 

[HumBurner]

Perfect. Appears that if you remove the inside cover and replace both the clutch and drum, the newer version works. Turning it down was easy enough to not warrant that extra expense. Nice to know of that option should the need arise in the future. I didn't even think about using a collet mount at the time, but that makes sense. We have a bunch used for specific manufacturing tasks, and mostly old south bend manual stuff for maintenance tasks, that are typically running 3 jaws. I was pleasantly surprised at how true the outer dome was. Set it with a flat bearing tailstock and it was pretty much spot on measuring off the rim and the bearing surface.

It's been ~2yrs since I've looked at my 024s. What are you referring to as the inside cover?

Thank you

 

[autobaun70]

I imagine I used a collet to avoid the chance of the thin, hard clutch bell slipping in a chuck. Or the collet closer was already on the lathe and I didn't feel like swapping it out...

I understand completely. Changing setups is a pain. I just chucked the splines in the 3 jaw and they landed evenly enough for it to turn true.

It's been ~2yrs since I've looked at my 024s. What are you referring to as the inside cover?

Thank you

I’ll try to post a pic tomorrow. Covers the chain brake components. Doesn’t appear to do anything functionally other than keep debris out. Saw is sitting at work with the chain brake still out of it, waiting on a tension spring to come in.

 

[Mad Professor]

Good to know.

I've a few 026/024 parts carcasses, and running 026s.

I'm on rim drives, 3003 mount 16" bars, 16" 0.325 RS/RM chains. Same on my 028S.

 

[autobaun70]

Good to know.

I've a few 026/024 parts carcasses, and running 026s.

I'm on rim drives, 3003 mount 16" bars, 16" 0.325 RS/RM chains. Same on my 028S.

That’s basically the setup I have for this one. It has a pretty worn .063 .325 67 link bar with it, and I have a couple of chains. I picked up a new 16” .050 Rotary bar for it yesterday that was $12 at the hardware store which matches what’s on my brothers MS250. This saw is a backup to my 346xp, and his MS250 is a backup as well. Will be nice long term to be running the same bar/chain setup on them.

 

[Mad Professor]

That’s basically the setup I have for this one. It has a pretty worn .063 .325 67 link bar with it, and I have a couple of chains. I picked up a new 16” .050 Rotary bar for it yesterday that was $12 at the hardware store which matches what’s on my brothers MS250. This saw is a backup to my 346xp, and his MS250 is a backup as well. Will be nice long term to be running the same bar/chain setup on the

026/260 are 3003 bar mounts, won't fit a 025.

I have a NOS 16" Stihl E bar to fit a 025. PM if you want + shipping

 

[autobaun70]

026/260 are 3003 bar mounts, won't fit a 025.

I have a NOS 16" Stihl E bar to fit a 025. PM if you want + shipping

Didn’t think about mounting. What is the link count on a 16” .325 250? I had pictured in my head having a pair of them matching so that chains especially could be shared. We work together in the same business and I tend to be the one that ends up doing all the chain sharpening while at work. Uniformity in that regard would be nice.

 

[HumBurner]

I understand completely. Changing setups is a pain. I just chucked the splines in the 3 jaw and they landed evenly enough for it to turn true.


I’ll try to post a pic tomorrow. Covers the chain brake components. Doesn’t appear to do anything functionally other than keep debris out. Saw is sitting at work with the chain brake still out of it, waiting on a tension spring to come in.

Awesome! Much appreciated!