Stihl 026 problem.
- Thread starter brandonstc6
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Try taking your starter off and checking the intake boot for a rip.
Also while you're there, look at the coil gap, and see if the crank has any up/down play in it.
Also while you're there, look at the coil gap, and see if the crank has any up/down play in it.
I have been following your thread each day/evening and still see the saw is not pulling fuel. One thing I have not seen is if you actually checked to see if the saw has impulse at the end of the line where the carb plugs in.? I know this means the carb has to be pulled out til the nipple clears the end of the rubber impulse line, jamb a good blob of hard grease in the end of the line, with the sparkplug removed and the switch shut off pull the engine over rapidly, watch to see if the grease is pulsed in and out at the end of the line. If you have a vacuum gauge, that can be used in place of the grease, the hand will waver if their is impulse. If the impulse is weak or the is no sign then it could mean a large air leak or the line is cracked or plugged between the crankcase and the carb.
brandonstc6
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That's a great idea. Thanks! I will try that.
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drf255
BAD CAD
I'm voting impulse line also.
Still don't fully understand the symptoms though. Does it die idling or at throttle?
When these issues last a while, your best bet is to tear it all down and go back to basics so you don't drive yourself nuts. A stitch in time, as they say.
Detach tank. Vacuum test case and cylinder. Gorilla tape over a port cleaned with acetone is a cheat that actually works, but no good for pressure testing only vacuum.
Then inspect and test boot, impulse, fuel line. You have the more readily available S shaped 260 line.
Check for spark. A bad coil usually takes longer to cause a problem then 20 seconds if there is spark at cranking. Takes time to heat up.
Then run the Saw briefly with the tank vent pulled off. See if that makes any difference.
Did you gap the coil correctly? Is the piston near TDC with the crank magnets aligned with the coil legs?
My vote is a bad impulse line.
Still don't fully understand the symptoms though. Does it die idling or at throttle?
When these issues last a while, your best bet is to tear it all down and go back to basics so you don't drive yourself nuts. A stitch in time, as they say.
Detach tank. Vacuum test case and cylinder. Gorilla tape over a port cleaned with acetone is a cheat that actually works, but no good for pressure testing only vacuum.
Then inspect and test boot, impulse, fuel line. You have the more readily available S shaped 260 line.
Check for spark. A bad coil usually takes longer to cause a problem then 20 seconds if there is spark at cranking. Takes time to heat up.
Then run the Saw briefly with the tank vent pulled off. See if that makes any difference.
Did you gap the coil correctly? Is the piston near TDC with the crank magnets aligned with the coil legs?
My vote is a bad impulse line.
brandonstc6
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The reason the saw was running before I think is because the air filter was soaked in gas because i was trying to get it to start on a prime. Basically the saw will not pull gas from the tank. Also I do not have a vacuum pump to test for vacuum.
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drf255
BAD CAD
Change the impulse line. Check the fuel line.
The grease in the end of the impulse line is a good cheap and effective test to just see if there is an impulse signal. If there is impulse then its the carb or fuel line,fuel filter. Just about everyone has some form of hard grease around, even vaseline will work. If there is no impulse, the grease does no pop in and out at the end of the hose, then further disassembly and investigation is necessary. A cracked impulse hose, not attached to the hose barb or a bad air leak could be a cause for poor or no impulse at the carb.
brandonstc6
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I will check that first and then If that checks out then I'll replace the fuel line
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brandonstc6
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I know my impulse line is good and attached but i agree that I need to check for impulse
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Yes, its better to use a method for diagnosis than to just guess what`s wrong with a machine. Once we know whether there is impulse or not then further diagnosis is one step at a time til its revealed what is going on with your saw. I have built more than 40 of these 026`s up from the crank and a lot of them came to me as parts in a box.
brandonstc6
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I am out of town today but I will check it tonight or tomorrow and let you know, thanks
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brandonstc6
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I checked the impulse and it's good. I took off the fuel line and found a crack in it. So hopefully that is the problem.
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brandonstc6
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Does anyone know typically how much a new ms260 fuel line cost? At the stihl dealer. If it is too much I will get an aftermarket one online
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Was the crack above the tank, just under the carb?
There is too much of a difference in our monetary system for me to give you a price for a fuel line. I get them here from my Stihl dealer for $12. I havn`t seen or found a good AM fuel line yet.
There is too much of a difference in our monetary system for me to give you a price for a fuel line. I get them here from my Stihl dealer for $12. I havn`t seen or found a good AM fuel line yet.
brandonstc6
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It was right where the line goes into the tank. I tried to remove the fuel line and it broke off there
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I seen the wetness around the line if that was a pict of your saw. The fuel expansion in the tank will cause a leak in that area if the line has a hole above the tank.
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got a new aftermarket fuel line. I don't have any good dealers near me. The air filter is pinching my new fuel line. Either my fuel line is too long or my air filter is sticking out too far past the carburetor. I'm going to have to fool with it some more and get the fuel line not to pinch
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brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wish you better luck with AM fuel lines than I have had with them so far, only used 3 diff ones and they all shrunk terribly or turned to mush in less than a month. I for one would like to hear back about if your line lasts a couple months or more just to know if there are better lines out there. Happy sawing..
