Stihl 028 AV Super Rebuild Project

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Dang it, something bad happened in here:

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Brian
opps!!
 
just a little, I will use the MasterMind method and recover it.

Brian
 
I do have a good cylinder for an 028 super. I've already robbed a few parts off of the saw I guess I could take the cylinder too. I have another locked up 028 super with a good cylinder that I could take off too. If you are interested


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dang it! good news, if I wreck this one I will need one. thanks for letting me know.

Brian
 
Good deal. If you can use OEM clips for piston pin. You can probably still get them from a good stihl dealer?


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I was looking at that cylinder pic and marked a couple of spots that caught my (double visioned) eyes.

Did you smooth out or rework the chamfer/radius at the red marked areas?
That looks like something banged into the port edges (the piston ring?) and likely pushed up some metal that would be a problem now.

The other place ( marked yellow), has a streak coming from another place that I would double check the port edges.
 

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Finally getting back to this saw! I have all the parts I needed, got the case halves all cleaned up, just put the bearings on the crank today. Took advantage of the -22°F to cool the crank.



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Took advantage of the super cold weather. Chilled the case half with crank outside, mating half heated in oven set at 350 for 10 minutes or so. Slipped right together. If I torque the case bolts it is very stiff, loosen the bolts it spins freely. I have tried a few good raps with a brass mallet but still too stiff. Any ideas? The mallet trick worked on several other saws I did. Odd thing is that with the heat & cold I easily slipped the mating case half all the way on to the gasket.20190130_144015.jpg

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I think this is one of the reasons why they say to dry assemble or test fit the pieces. I believe you will have to machine the sides of the rod at the bearing slightly to narrow the piece -- filing or maybe even sandpaper might even do it. I would hate to see those fine chips or dust get lodged in the crankcase.

Check to see if it's the needle bearing or the rod itself that is causing the stiff rub.
 
Took advantage of the super cold weather. Chilled the case half with crank outside, mating half heated in oven set at 350 for 10 minutes or so. Slipped right together. If I torque the case bolts it is very stiff, loosen the bolts it spins freely. I have tried a few good raps with a brass mallet but still too stiff. Any ideas? The mallet trick worked on several other saws I did. Odd thing is that with the heat & cold I easily slipped the mating case half all the way on to the gasket.View attachment 700664

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could the new main bearings be slightly thicker in diameter,? thus reducing tolerance and interfering with the fit ? did you measure the new bearings against the old?just a thought CD
 
could the new main bearings be slightly thicker in diameter,? thus reducing tolerance and interfering with the fit ? did you measure the new bearings against the old?just a thought CD

I did not measure the old vs. new but I am convinced it is sideways pressure because the bearings are fully seated cases fully mated without using the bolts, just cold and heat. All I do is back off the torque and everything spins freely. If it was a bearing OD thing it would still be tight because everything is mated.
 
I did not measure the old vs. new but I am convinced it is sideways pressure because the bearings are fully seated cases fully mated without using the bolts, just cold and heat. All I do is back off the torque and everything spins freely. If it was a bearing OD thing it would still be tight because everything is mated.
hi

when I referred to diameter , I meant the actual thickness as it sounds like your new bearings may be ever so slightly thicker, which could nip the crank. did you measure the thickness of old and new? I'm sure the inner/outer fit is fine. CD
 

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