Tonight’s dinner is going to be a pair of cases topped with a cylinder and garnished with 4 bolts and a tank cap served warm.
Stihl 045 AV Rebuild.
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
- Start date
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Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but I have a couple of what I believe are 045AV's (half stripped for parts) that I picked up from a local scrap yard a while back as I thought they may share oiler parts with my 048AV. I'm in New Zealand but happy to send bits if needed (assuming I won't need em for the 048)
Pic added for reference
Pic added for reference
Why are the parts in your oven?
When I have finished washing them even though I use compressed air, the mag would have absorbed the water. Therefore I let them dry properly in the oven. The bolts and cylinder wouldn’t have but meh, ovens on, I may as well stick them in.
I once soaked cases in evaporust and instantly I saw streams of tiny bubbles everywhere, it opened my eyes to just how porous magnesium is. Now I make sure it’s fully dry before sticking it in the clean container.
Cleaned the cylinder exhaust port with sandpaper on a Dremel and the cylinder roof with green scotchbrite on the end of a round brass wire brush connected to a drill.
Very nice.
Thanks Pogo
Out of curiosity, what did you do about the PTO side bearing and seal? I can't recall if you provided details earlier in the thread.
I ask because my recent 045AV rebuild experienced a near catastrophic big end rod bearing failure which has created some concern about re-using the crank bearings. This, of course, is totally dependent on my even finding a good replacement crank with the cam lobe for a points ignition. Doesn't look very promising at the outset, so the initial question may be moot anyway.
I'm curious about suggested methods for cleaning and reusing bearings. I realize new bearings are always preferred, but if they're NLA....
I ask because my recent 045AV rebuild experienced a near catastrophic big end rod bearing failure which has created some concern about re-using the crank bearings. This, of course, is totally dependent on my even finding a good replacement crank with the cam lobe for a points ignition. Doesn't look very promising at the outset, so the initial question may be moot anyway.
I'm curious about suggested methods for cleaning and reusing bearings. I realize new bearings are always preferred, but if they're NLA....
Hey mate!
So I have ordered an OEM NOS bearing with included seal for the PTO side from eBay from a UK seller.
The other side is just a 6004. I brought an NSK. The seal I brought NOS too on eBay from the USA
Warmest regards and hope you’re well mate
Can you convert it to electronic ignition/crank?
More expensive and less reliable than sticking with a points setup. I've been fortunate enough to have run across a complete crankcase with the points crank and supposedly good bearings on both sides. We shall see. If the cranks in those 045's have the cam lobe for a points ignition, they're definitely worth hanging onto along with the flywheels and any other points ignition components that may have come with those cases.
Coincidentally, I also happen to be doing a complete rebuild on an 048. The oil pump assembly itself from the 045 is a direct bolt on replacement for the 048 and several other saws of the era. There are different sizes of gears for different saws, but the pump is interchangeable.
Coincidentally, I also happen to be doing a complete rebuild on an 048. The oil pump assembly itself from the 045 is a direct bolt on replacement for the 048 and several other saws of the era. There are different sizes of gears for different saws, but the pump is interchangeable.
You can totally dismantle the bearings to clean them up, polish the races and inspect each ball for pitting. Most won`t attempt it but it is possible.
I like a challenge, but even I’d have to be incredibly desperate to do that, maybe if there was literally no other option haha.
There are some things best left alone but when there is no other option at the time and one wants to get something back into running condition then there are desperate means available. In my years of repair work in very remote parts a work around or unconventional repair method has saved the day.
Both were electronic ignition, hence my asking. Glad you found a solution, fingers crossed it all comes together nicely.
Thanks for the info, very good to know. I grabbed them as I was a little concerned about my 048 oiler... It makes a distinct clicking noise if you spin the chain backwards. It might just be in my head but I'm sure it's getting worse. Do you know if that's a common issue? Cheers
Yeah, I kinda figured that... I just wasn't sure if that was normal or if it was so noticable because something was wearing/broken. Haven't had the saw long & don't have anything similar to compare it to. Cheers JD
The oiler gear is typically held snug in place by the cover and will simply turn the oil pump backward instead of rising off the gear as it otherwise would if the cover were removed. It should also be pretty well lubricated at the pump plunger gear and not be making noise unless something else is wrong with the oil pump.
A worn sprocket snagging the drive links a little when the chain is spun backward will certainly make a clicking sound -- as will a damaged chain.
As for the points cranks, they were also used in electronic ignition 1115 series saws for a time. The serial number break point when the non-lobed cranks were introduced was x 11 026 121.
And on the bearing cleaning; a highly respected saw builder who used to hang around here a few years ago endorsed my suggestion (question?) about perhaps using a heated ultra sonic cleaner with a non-corrosive cleaner (in a separate container) like Seafoam or similar to de-funk dirty bearings -- at least as a stage 1 restoration method to get rid of residual debris for a better idea of how the surfaces actually felt/sounded once the crap was gone. He just uses Mean Green in a 50/50 ratio with water for a few cycles followed by a fresh water rinse and thorough blow dry, then stored in an oil filled ziplock bag until needed (if they felt ok out of the USC, of course). I'm anxious to try a couple, but don't think I'll be experimenting on a non-obtainium 045 (or 048) bearing as my first try!
Anyway, back to the 045 thread. Apologies for the derail.
And the notifications are back! Yay!
A worn sprocket snagging the drive links a little when the chain is spun backward will certainly make a clicking sound -- as will a damaged chain.
As for the points cranks, they were also used in electronic ignition 1115 series saws for a time. The serial number break point when the non-lobed cranks were introduced was x 11 026 121.
And on the bearing cleaning; a highly respected saw builder who used to hang around here a few years ago endorsed my suggestion (question?) about perhaps using a heated ultra sonic cleaner with a non-corrosive cleaner (in a separate container) like Seafoam or similar to de-funk dirty bearings -- at least as a stage 1 restoration method to get rid of residual debris for a better idea of how the surfaces actually felt/sounded once the crap was gone. He just uses Mean Green in a 50/50 ratio with water for a few cycles followed by a fresh water rinse and thorough blow dry, then stored in an oil filled ziplock bag until needed (if they felt ok out of the USC, of course). I'm anxious to try a couple, but don't think I'll be experimenting on a non-obtainium 045 (or 048) bearing as my first try!
Anyway, back to the 045 thread. Apologies for the derail.
And the notifications are back! Yay!
Chaps, I needed a new piston, current cylinder and piston has C stamped on. The new piston I got today has A on it. Rings are different widths but that’s ok because I have rings for the A piston too.
The pin’s that the rings locate on are also different location. Any reason I can or can’t run this piston?
I have all the comparative measurements. Seems that the A piston I’m wanting to install into the C cylinder is in every case just marginally smaller than the original C
Piston crown diameter intake to exhaust sides
A 49.82mm
C 49.83mm
Piston crown diameter transfer to transfer sides
A 49.84mm
C 49.84mm
Skirt diameter lowest part
A 49.90mm
C 49.94mm
Exhaust skirt width lowest
A 33.34mm
C 34.19mm
Intake skirt width lowest
A 33.62mm
C 34.29mm
Exhaust skirt to cylinder
A 0.10mm
C 0.10mm
Intake skirt to cylinder
A 0.13mm
C 0.10mm
The pin’s that the rings locate on are also different location. Any reason I can or can’t run this piston?
I have all the comparative measurements. Seems that the A piston I’m wanting to install into the C cylinder is in every case just marginally smaller than the original C
Piston crown diameter intake to exhaust sides
A 49.82mm
C 49.83mm
Piston crown diameter transfer to transfer sides
A 49.84mm
C 49.84mm
Skirt diameter lowest part
A 49.90mm
C 49.94mm
Exhaust skirt width lowest
A 33.34mm
C 34.19mm
Intake skirt width lowest
A 33.62mm
C 34.29mm
Exhaust skirt to cylinder
A 0.10mm
C 0.10mm
Intake skirt to cylinder
A 0.13mm
C 0.10mm
