I don't agree at all. The pins and the bar rail slot need the oil the most. The drivers will move the oil to the chain chassis if it has any to deliver.
Stihl MS 400 and a 25” bar
- Thread starter Chewbacca10
- Start date
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The gear is definitely the biggest improvement. My 660 with a gear update uses amost a full tank of oil per fuel tank. The control bolt is a stock replacement OEM also. Summer bar oil is never used in that saw. It runs cannola or thin stuff.
The control bolt alone gains about 20% volume. The gear is closer to 35% gain. Together it's likely over 40%.
They have the cc per minute listed for most of them. Found the spec on all the 1124 models. 088-880 is the most volume until the 084 pump is pulled wide open. Most cables won't do that from being stretched. A good cable will put out 2.3
You can agree or not, but the fact is the rail is harder steel than the chain and by design.
If you under oil the chain it stretches very fast. The tip needs oil too but It can go along time without lube.
Not milling or bucking big logs
.The tip will seize is thirty seconds or less. Your just not educated about this or experienced, obviously. The great white sawyer from mount everest can't be wrong.
Link pin wear in the side strap causes chain stretch reguardless if you agree or not.
Everyone knows the chain chassis is softer than most bars in quality name brands.
No?
The bolt only won't do it. The difference is the ramp on the end of the piston and the amount of oil that the piston will move.
The bolt helps. It is offset on both ramps.
The best tip is to radius the exit hole to the bar rail. Widen that while your there. No need to cut it up or down just wider. It adds 10% with no dust clogs.
The R model 1122 pump with a large radius exit hole in the bar empties the oil tank long before the fuel in the summertime with winter bar oil or cannola. The saw run 14 minutes @WOT milling. The R gear only pump is 1-1 or less on cannola oil. Temperature in the tank effects it. By the second loop swap it empies the tank before the fuel runs out. It's about the same bucking in the cut. It wets a 42" bucking or 36" milling dry dead ash. Short the fuel for ten minute runs is best on the R pump in the heat. I ported the R pump and it made no difference. Drilled all the paths 0.008 bigger. Radius the exit hole also with no change. Drilled the inlet bigger no change. Most pump housings appear to be the same in 1122.
Im not sure this debate is useful.Not milling or bucking big logs
The tip will seize is thirty seconds or less. Your just not educated about this or experienced, obviously. The great white sawyer from mount everest can't be wrong.
Link pin wear in the side strap causes chain stretch reguardless if you agree or not.
Everyone knows the chain chassis is softer than most bars in quality name brands.
No?
Surely friction and heat damages any metal, hard or soft. From personal experience you can destroy a bar, tip and chain in seconds without oil (blocked bar hole in my case). Ever since this mistake i have over-oiled everything and used an aux oiler when milling. Subjectively I think my equipment is lasting much longer now.
Then you get it where most people just don't. Too many others tell me how the thing is fine cutting big timber. They spend more time piss reving then acually cutting in some of the videos they make.
Many people enjoy dumping on me. It only makes me better and more resilient over time like a good bar with air hardening steel. Short that once on oil for a good solid surface at break-in time and better wear in the long run. Not hurting the nose bearing is the fine line there. Most people will say that is BS. I'm Okay
with that. My bars wear extremely well over time. Many wore out long after others were on the second or third replacement of the same kind as me. Mostly Stihl ES.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have had my 461 bout 6-7 years….i have the “regularl” model….i did not like the way it oiled a 25-28” bar at all so I put the HO oil pump in and she squirts now lmao!!!
The standard oiler was absolutely pitiful in my opinion….anyway like any guy said o ce input the HO oiler in it WILL empty the oil before the fuel, so put in a little less fuel or try and remember lol!!!
The standard oiler was absolutely pitiful in my opinion….anyway like any guy said o ce input the HO oiler in it WILL empty the oil before the fuel, so put in a little less fuel or try and remember lol!!!
I use a lot of bar oil.
I run the thin spring/fall stuff in the summer and even thinner winter oil in the winter.
My 660 has a big bore cylinder and is very hard on gas and it still uses almost a full tank of oil per tank of gas. I run a 20 inch bar on it, if I dial back the bar oil, the oiler hole plugs up, if I use lots of bar oil I never have issues.
My small saws are similar, they have 16 inch bars and almost run out of oil before gas.
I honestly dont know how guys run 28-32 inch bars without oiling issues, I cut up mostly rock maple for firewood, it eats up the bar oil. I dont stop mid cut to rev the saw or piss rev it between cuts, the saw is either idling or cutting wood.
I run the thin spring/fall stuff in the summer and even thinner winter oil in the winter.
My 660 has a big bore cylinder and is very hard on gas and it still uses almost a full tank of oil per tank of gas. I run a 20 inch bar on it, if I dial back the bar oil, the oiler hole plugs up, if I use lots of bar oil I never have issues.
My small saws are similar, they have 16 inch bars and almost run out of oil before gas.
I honestly dont know how guys run 28-32 inch bars without oiling issues, I cut up mostly rock maple for firewood, it eats up the bar oil. I dont stop mid cut to rev the saw or piss rev it between cuts, the saw is either idling or cutting wood.
Milling seems like an a poor way to use a saw and wasteful given the large kerf of a chainsaw. With that said.Not milling or bucking big logs
The tip will seize is thirty seconds or less. Your just not educated about this or experienced, obviously. The great white sawyer from mount everest can't be wrong.
Link pin wear in the side strap causes chain stretch reguardless if you agree or not.
Everyone knows the chain chassis is softer than most bars in quality name brands.
No?
I watched a friend burn through almost two tanks of fuel with out adding bar oil. Tip was hot, but not siezed. I still have the bar he used hanging in my shed and I use it occasionally.
Often reality and what you "think" is going on is two different things.
FWIW while I was logging also had a dolmar oiler fail and the bar went months of full time use after that.
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
For a 25" bar with clean rail slot and stock oiler on max output with the correct oil for the outdoor temperature and stock everything else on the saw, cutting reasonably clean "average" wood and not cutting with the tip and blipping the throttle twice between cuts, cutting at a normal pace and not milling, filing the chain per spec and not taking extra of the rakers, letting the saw self-feed and not putting pressure on the bar, with a reasonably sharp chain, the stock oiler is fine, @Juliana Wolf and I spent the last couple days running that configuration with plenty of oil supplied.
I think the issue is:
I think the issue is:
- extreme cutting conditions, or
- the hot-rodders here going beyond the original design
Dennisthemenace
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think this has been mentioned but I reckon it is well worth enlarging the oil holes on any modern Stihl bar. Especially 25"and up. My old 30" Duramax bars came with
holes at least twice the size of my newer 25 " ES bars stock. Both run 063 404.
Doesn't matter how big the pump is if you can't get the oil through the hole
holes at least twice the size of my newer 25 " ES bars stock. Both run 063 404.
Doesn't matter how big the pump is if you can't get the oil through the hole
