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coos bay, how i used it

Hi Eric and 'Chaser and rooster and everybody else:

I used the coos bay on a few burned leaners where I was worried about stump pull due to burned roots. 20 inch dbh, about 45 or 50 feet with rest of top broken off, most branches buned. probably Coulter Pine.I pretty much followed beranek.

Took about 1/3 off each side laving srip in middle holding tree. middle strip runs parallel to the natural lay/lean of the tree. I snugged a wedge on one side as slight breeze might make tree fall to that side.

All set up to fall it, I then I bored from middle third back towards rear leving holding tab of about 4 inches at rear. So at his point all holding the tree up is about 7x7 piece of middle third of tree left intact at front (side towards lay) and 4 inch log piece of middle third at rear. Then I cut rear (release) tab from the backside in.

Worked great, except did spin some due to no hinge and slight bow of tree. i was away on my safe route so i did not care about spin, burt I learned, neveer underestimate a pecker pole.

if the tree was rotten inside it would have been scary or impossible for me but the fire got this one, not the beetles and the fire :) . Next time I would leave little smaller piece at front. I snaps off up there and the sound aint pretty. Maybe that was why he veed his front in the video?

My 56 k connection made for a small picture, I couldnt see too good.
 
that video was pretty informative. i think it may have been made just for me. i am in the business of storm tree cutting and my roomate is swedish so he'll be able to tell me what the hell that guy with the awesome mustache is saying
 
Thanks for the video. Never too old to learn new tricks (or at least perform them in a different maybe better, safer way). I did notice the orange saw the fellow was using also had some white paint . Isnt that like blasphamy to use that saw in Sweden?
 
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B-Edwards said:
I did notice the orange saw the fellow was using also had some white paint . Isnt that like blasphamy to use that saw in Sweden?

You are correct, and he did in fact got himself a nice little hanging for it :bowdown:
 
An excellent safety vid, apart from one part at 2.30 minutes in, the instructor started to bore into the trunk with the kick back area of the bar.

I admit that being unable to understand Swedish he may have made reference to this possible danger.

What do you all think?
 
kick back

zzrjohn:

Yea I noticed that the first time I viewed this awhile back.
Note that he had no kickback or even the slightest indication of a kickback.

I'm pretty sure he is cutting spruce. A very very soft wood.
If the area you are cutting on a spruce is not under pressure, (compression wood), you can use the tip like he did and get away with it. (I should have mentioned here earlier that a saw that is definitely sharp is also part of avoiding a kickback in a spruce type soft wood. But don't count on that, of course.)

I would suggest that most cutters should stay away from this type of technique. It can get you into trouble if you stray with it to a harder wood.

One thing you can do to educate yourself a bit on kickback in different woods is to deliberately put the wrong part of the bar into a horizontal log.
1) Start with rotten wood,
2) All PPE,
3) Stand perfectly balanced,
4) Thumbs and both hands engaged, functioning chain brake.
5) Hold the saw where the bar is on a plane where it cannot come back at you,
6) Start with lower rpm's, put the tip incorrectly gingerly into the wood.
7) Up the rpm's a little and try again,
8) Go to stronger denser woods,
9) Stop before you get to dead, but still solid hardwoods. I.e. the worst case scenario.

Beginners should watch this as a demo from an experienced cutter.

If done cautiously, I think this can be a valuable learning drill for even many experienced cutters.

All the best.
 
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cool video

thats one cool film wish i spoke swedish coos bay cut on page 309 of G.F. Beranek The Fundamentals of general tree work.
 

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