Support your local dealer? The argument

[PES+]

Lets get some basic physics stated here so we can understand.

The crankcase is the coolest part of the 2-stroke in operation due to the expansion of the fuel droplets and compressed air drawn into the intake the evaporation begins at the instant the transfers open (actually just slightly before) and just like when you let air out of an air hose it cools...If there is too much heat transfered to the crankcase for any reason the engine will stop and go into a form of vapor lock. Before this happens most often a highly lean condition will cause melting of the piston

 

[Lakeside53]

The ms 260 is the only current model that has a sieve like muffler. Yet another reason that saw is less than desirable IMO.

Not sure what you mean here? The 260 muffer is different being two piece, but not that much so than many others in production.

 

[Lakeside53]

Lets get some basic physics stated here so we can understand.

The crankcase is the coolest part of the 2-stroke in operation due to the expansion of the fuel droplets and compressed air drawn into the intake the evaporation begins at the instant the transfers open (actually just slightly before) and just like when you let air out of an air hose it cools...If there is too much heat transfered to the crankcase for any reason the engine will stop and go into a form of vapor lock. Before this happens most often a highly lean condition will cause melting of the piston

Good physics, but explain to me why my crankcase is toasty to touch... and my crank way too hot to touch... and as for the oil warming.. maybe the mag conducts heat real well? Sure there is cooling is the crankcase, but it's realatve, not absolute..... let's get another part of the physics going - the oil temps were talking about are "warm", maybe 75F 'ish.... not boiling etc....

 

[WRW]

Lets get some basic physics stated here so we can understand.

The crankcase is the coolest part of the 2-stroke in operation due to the expansion of the fuel droplets and compressed air drawn into the intake the evaporation begins at the instant the transfers open (actually just slightly before) and just like when you let air out of an air hose it cools...If there is too much heat transfered to the crankcase for any reason the engine will stop and go into a form of vapor lock. Before this happens most often a highly lean condition will cause melting of the piston

Coolest is a relative term...are you saying the crankcase cools the bar oil, or are you making a point I'm not seeing?

Sorry, I'm interrupting.

 

[bump_r]

Umm...he bought a Dolmar.
He read HERE that he should use a winter bar oil.
The Stihl literature I have here says to use Stihl environmentally friendly oil...or in an emergency to use single grade/multi grade motor oil appropriate for the weather. Nothing about summer/winter blends.

Nevermind!

BWAHAHAHAH!!!!

Thanks, dude. 'swaht I get for reading a post befre lunch and replying after.

It WAS a well thought out, presented and supportive post, too bad it was totally irrelavent, huh? Go back to bashing the dood, then. I tried.

 

[bwalker]

Not sure what you mean here? The 260 muffer is different being two piece, but not that much so than many others in production.

The 260 muffler leaks bad. No gasket between the two halves and the halves themselves are pretty poor in the fit department.
The 440,460 muffler is two piece also, but uses a gasket and it also fits much tighter.
I fired my 346 up this morning after it had been sitting outside next to my boiler all night. It was about 5 degrees. Oiled just fine with regular Walmart bar oil.
The exhaust does heat up the oil tank on all saws I have owned.

 

[PES+]

Coolest is a relative term...are you saying the crankcase cools the bar oil, or are you making a point I'm not seeing?

The point that I am making is the crankcase does NOTHING to warm the oil.....the exhaust and possibly some residual cylinder heat soaking do warm the oil.....but the crankcase has to stay at a relative cool value or the motor will fail to run.

 

[rb_in_va]

Wow, congrats to the original poster! 19 people currently viewing this thread!

About dealers: I recently moved to Hampton from Portsmouth, VA (about 25 miles away). In Portsmouth there was a Stihl dealer that acted like he owned a boutique. I went in there for small parts on a saw I didn't buy from him and he acted like I was a low-life or something.

Then I move to Hampton and check out the closest saw shop (just so happened to be a Dolmar dealer). They seemed willing to help, just a little lost trying to get infomation on Dolmar prices. The next closest shop was a Stihl dealer, and I went to them for nickle and dime parts for a mower I was trying to fix. The Stihl shop treated me like gold, even when I was buying a, $.80 gasket! So I have two dealers within 5 miles that I would be happy to bring my saw to for service.

Quite a difference from the experience I got when I lived in Portsmouth!

 

[Hard Knocks]

Wow, congrats to the original poster! 19 people currently viewing this thread!

Ya, What was the topic again?

 

[Lakeside53]

The 260 muffler leaks bad. No gasket between the two halves and the halves themselves are pretty poor in the fit department.
The 440,460 muffler is two piece also, but uses a gasket and it also fits much tighter.
I fired my 346 up this morning after it had been sitting outside next to my boiler all night. It was about 5 degrees. Oiled just fine with regular Walmart bar oil.
The exhaust does heat up the oil tank on all saws I have owned.

Now I understand, and yes the 024,026/260 muffler is 20 years+ old, but I rarely see a 260 with a messy leak.

BTW, the 460 muffler has an optional gasket. It was only used on the NON-dual port mufflers. Gasketing was an EPA issue. Like with exhaust gaskets, it's rare to find one replaced after disassembly, and they are "use once" only.

 

[bwalker]

The 440 and 460 can get away without gaskets as the two halves fit together in a much more precise manner than the 260.
MY 440 and 460 both came with gaskets, and I reused them with no ill effect. The gasket was a very soft, silver colored type.

 

[PES+]

So....to the original post.....as was pointed out by someone Stihl does not have dealers stock winter oil. Stihl has a better way obviously??....dunno....now as to whether the dealer is qualified to adjust the Dolmar carb?....again who knows? Stihl only wants their dealers selling their saws and one could presume working only on the brand.

More new school from Stihl..no need for winter oil....but we recommend our top secret proprietary formula organic bio degradeable precision oil for way more than any sane person would pay to throw oil on the ground.

And clearing a pinch with a chainsaw is mis-use if the plastic handle breaks.

Another thread had a Husky dealer charging a customer to fix an oiler within warranty period because they used summer oil in winter.

This is the current state of the major saw market....new school is cool....but rather expensive no?

 

[adkranger]

Winter grade bar oil

I have absolutely no use for it. Don't need even down to -20 degrees as it tends to get around here this time of year. I certainly wouldn't judge my local saw shops for not carrying it because no one here buys it. All the pros use regular grade oil year 'round. I do have one jug of the stuff, for like the last five years but do not like it's performance in my saws. I find it only works good in a COLD saw, once warm it never seems to make 'round to the bottom of my longer bars. The only places I see it carried on the shelf are the Big Boxes and a few hardware stores.

Give your Dolmar guy another shot, just because he didn't have a 5100 on the shelf doesn't mean he can't help ya out down the road. It would take more than one unsatisfying visit to sour me on a particular establishment. If screwed twice (more than not merely having a full line up on the shelf IMO) shame on me and I'm looking elsewhere. Time is money and short enough to not waste it on no service. Good luck.

I leave the other issues flying 'round here alone, but I'll be watchin' .opcorn:

BTW, all you 026 haters out there can send 'em all my way. I'll even pay shipping.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Lakeside53]

The 440 and 460 can get away without gaskets as the two halves fit together in a much more precise manner than the 260.
MY 440 and 460 both came with gaskets, and I reused them with no ill effect. The gasket was a very soft, silver colored type.

If the saw is relatively new the front gaskets are plyable and seem to be o.k. with reuse. Give them a few years and you are lucky if they evey stay in one piece when they come off. The rear gasket is another story, but few care.

 

[Lakeside53]

So....to the original post.....as was pointed out by someone Stihl does not have dealers stock winter oil. Stihl has a better way obviously??....dunno....now as to whether the dealer is qualified to adjust the Dolmar carb?....again who knows? Stihl only wants their dealers selling their saws and one could presume working only on the brand.

More new school from Stihl..no need for winter oil....but we recommend our top secret proprietary formula organic bio degradeable precision oil for way more than any sane person would pay to throw oil on the ground.

And clearing a pinch with a chainsaw is mis-use if the plastic handle breaks.

Another thread had a Husky dealer charging a customer to fix an oiler within warranty period because they used summer oil in winter.

This is the current state of the major saw market....new school is cool....but rather expensive no?

you trollling again pest? out-of-context options on AS rarely represent the entire universe.:notrolls2:

 

[bump_r]

Ya, What was the topic again?

hell, I sure don't know!!!

 

[stihltech]

oil

HEY! COME TO PIKE!
I stock winter and summer bar oil!
I, and everyone that works here, can make most any chain!
I stock tons of parts!
I will even know what you are talking about, most of the time!
I will work on any color, but I prefer those white and orange ones!

But in the end, the question is,

DOES ANYBODY REALLY CARE!!!!

Thank you for letting me melt down.

Now back to your regular programming...... :bang: :bang:

 

[dingo]

bar oil

I must have missed something about bar oil. I use the same grade year around and it gets below freezing where I cut. I have always cut the heavy oil with 10 wt. non detergent, going on 30 years now and have never had any problems in the winter. I can see being fussy about special applications, but for me a feller, sawyer, common wood cutter, I just want the bar to be lubricated and not get hot and bind. My saws are huskys and stihl; they turn fast and hard.:yoyo: :bang:

 

[GASoline71]

I support my dealer. Always have, always will.

Frig bar oil...

Gary

 

[046]

back on topic... scr*w your winter oil, who cares...

support your local dealer! he's got a huge investment made and needs to make a certain amount of profit to stay in business.

believe me it's much better to have support, than none. I work on all my own equipment, so repair is not a big deal. but no one can do without parts!

general rule of thumb for me is... if it's slightly higher. not a big deal. if it's 2-3x the price. no way! I'm ordering online.

another test is does he have it in stock? If he had it in stock, it costs to have it hanging around and needs to be higher in price. next time your saw breaks on a job... and you need a part RIGHT NOW!

a dealer only needs to be competitive, not the cheapest every time.
there's no excuse for being rude... no one like doing business with someone that rude. that goes both directions.

I can be rude with the best of em, but usually don't start it. someone's got to be pretty rude to me first, before I start acting like an A**