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How many do you need?

Jimbo

Anybody got a good one of these? Trigger for 031 and others.

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Since .404 skip chain is a rare deal around here, I'll ask you folks. Need 80 drivers worth, would like chisel but I'm not that fussy as long as its .063. Oregon, Stihl, anything but China and Frostbite, will trade anything I can get here new in multiples if needed (3/8's, .325, VXL, Picco) or them fabulous green rectangular pictures of dead peoples.
 
Can anybody tell me what size, thread, pitch etc, the muffler bolts are on a 625 Jred? And how the hell to keep them tight?

Will locktite work? Which color?

I've never had good luck with any loctite in a high heat application. This is what I do on mufflers with 100% success. Cut a strip of 16 gauge sheet metal about a half inch wide and an inch wider than the bolt holes. Now lay on top of the muffler and drill bolt hole spacing into sheet metal. Take the sheet metal and use as a flat washer under the bolt heads and tighten as normal. Now take the tabs sticking out and bend them tightly against a flat side of the bolt head I use a round punch. The remainder sticking up now gets bent over the bolt head and flattened. This really works good ion Husky 350's but you have to use bolts as nuts on studs the studs may back out and loosen up.
 
Poulan parts

Looking for an oil tank plug for a Super 33, and a flywheel for a 361 (or a spring for one of the pawls)
 
I've never had good luck with any loctite in a high heat application. This is what I do on mufflers with 100% success. Cut a strip of 16 gauge sheet metal about a half inch wide and an inch wider than the bolt holes. Now lay on top of the muffler and drill bolt hole spacing into sheet metal. Take the sheet metal and use as a flat washer under the bolt heads and tighten as normal. Now take the tabs sticking out and bend them tightly against a flat side of the bolt head I use a round punch. The remainder sticking up now gets bent over the bolt head and flattened. This really works good ion Husky 350's but you have to use bolts as nuts on studs the studs may back out and loosen up.

I know what you're saying, and it sounds like a good idea, but it won't work this time. The bolts are recessed down about an inch inside the muffler. Plus they are socket head capscrews, so they have no flat side. I guess I'll try loctite and see if I can find some good small lockwashers in the Fastenal book. I have some serrated ones at work, but they are basically non-removeable which is no good.

I did find one of the bolts though.:msp_smile:
 
I've never had good luck with any loctite in a high heat application. This is what I do on mufflers with 100% success. Cut a strip of 16 gauge sheet metal about a half inch wide and an inch wider than the bolt holes. Now lay on top of the muffler and drill bolt hole spacing into sheet metal. Take the sheet metal and use as a flat washer under the bolt heads and tighten as normal. Now take the tabs sticking out and bend them tightly against a flat side of the bolt head I use a round punch. The remainder sticking up now gets bent over the bolt head and flattened. This really works good ion Husky 350's but you have to use bolts as nuts on studs the studs may back out and loosen up.

I like that, well played.

Maybe it's the fact that I definitely haven't run every saw ever made, but when using red Loctite, I've never lost a bolt, regardless of heat. I do buy the good stuff, I find that you get what you pay for 99% of the time when buying chemicals and lubricants. Regardless, that's an awesome tip.
 
I know what you're saying, and it sounds like a good idea, but it won't work this time. The bolts are recessed down about an inch inside the muffler. Plus they are socket head capscrews, so they have no flat side. I guess I'll try loctite and see if I can find some good small lockwashers in the Fastenal booki. I have some serrated ones at work, but they are basically non-removeable which is no good.

I did find one of the bolts though.:msp_smile:

Oops, didn't realize we had recessed bolts, just put me on ignore, the (soon to be) ex wife did. :hmm3grin2orange:
:hmm3grin2orange:
 
Oops, didn't realize we had recessed bolts, just put me on ignore, the (soon to be) ex wife did. :hmm3grin2orange:
:hmm3grin2orange:

Well, I have never done it on a saw, but in the past when I have had bolts/nuts that didn't want to hold good I have had some luck wrapping some thin soft copper wire around the bolt or stud, then tightening it down. The copper sort of form fits and acts like an internal lock washer. Has to be thin or it won't tighten down, but scrap little wires are always easy to scrounge.
 
I tried the garage sale swap meet, but ill try here as well.

Looking for a model 37 winchester 12 ga butt stock. Doesnt have to look new, as long as its structure is good.

Have plenty of saw stuff to trade (or a wwhole saw.)
 
Well, I have never done it on a saw, but in the past when I have had bolts/nuts that didn't want to hold good I have had some luck wrapping some thin soft copper wire around the bolt or stud, then tightening it down. The copper sort of form fits and acts like an internal lock washer. Has to be thin or it won't tighten down, but scrap little wires are always easy to scrounge.

I was congratulating your impending freedom, if that was unclear.

The DIY locking tabs are a very good idea to, though. :cheers:
 
266 carb

I find myself in need of a Tillotson HS-163A, 224C series for a 266se, any of the following should work, 266/268/272, some parts or cash for trade:cool2:
 
anyone needing a poulan 2300av???? i just aquired 1 today but i have no interested in going through it,, i have done so many of those saws i hate them,,, from what he said it ran,, i will pull the muffler and check the piston out,, it is literally a box saw,, taken apart and in a box,, from what i can see it is a complete saw minus b/c,, i tried to sucker muddawg into taking it but he told me to f*** off and to stick it up my azz :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
all i want is the actual shipping for it,,,

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Last chance before going on e-bay

Great condition Echo 60s Super chainsaw. It starts, runs good. Manual and automatic oiler works perfectly. It has a 20" hard nose oregon bar and chain it may need the seals but not 100% sure but i went a head and orderd them just incase.And in the last picture it shows the carb missing but when that picture was taking i was fixing the oiler line. i got a ad in the classifields. will trade for a other saw.

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