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Yeah you're probably right, I do have a few odds n ends 4 the 2100's, but Will has his stamp on those already!;)
I guess I'll just keep playing with the 395's, maybe I'll get 1 cracking ,1 of these days!

That's the go mate, just keep swimming, once you've mastered the skills related to safe spark plug removal and overhaul then reinstall, the rest is just a formality.

Just withdrew from tomorrows racing, the blocks left my mill today but the rest will be sawing them up.
Will be sawing up left over billets from last show so they can be sold off instead, oh goody.
 
tested that wmr sub sonic, it works goes bang but quietly just a smidgen more than standard 22lr subs bang seems accurate enuff but i only had one bag so not fully benched bagged both ends to truly see consistent POI i got 2 boxs for 22 bucks each the LGS chap I called didn't know he had it on self but found 2 bricks he was a surprised about the type ammo avaagoodweekend all
 
That's the go mate, just keep swimming, once you've mastered the skills related to safe spark plug removal and overhaul then reinstall, the rest is just a formality.

Just withdrew from tomorrows racing, the blocks left my mill today but the rest will be sawing them up.
Will be sawing up left over billets from last show so they can be sold off instead, oh goody.
I was never intending on being there tomorrow!
I have to work in order to do Goombungee next wk end.
There is 3 in a row coming up in QLD starting may 2nd,that'll keep me busy.:chainsaw:
 
safe now, i used the liquid carbryl Monday nite nay good no worky shame i had high hopes will retest my mix rate but no looking good so i came across product call Protect us insecticide dust active Permethrin http://www.protect-us.com.au/products/insecticide-dust used last nite worked fine, lets see how tonites bomb run gone in the morning.
its the same as cooper x insecticide that others here have recommended . silly duffer me, was getting the waste of time active constitute pyrethrum and good stuff permethrim mixed up and now realized as muchy difference
 
ND on a Ruger 96 22lr well i not seen done that before

I was teaching a hand full of novice 1st timers shooting, all safe seated behind gun that's tabled benched bagged in sand quarry all behind the line. etc etc
Lady had all ready fired few rounds so i was allowing some room she closed the lever breech but i watched & it was all fingers and thumbs awkward and she stopped to say felt nqr,,, i sat her back checked clear pulled trigger no click no bang, hmm cycled lever ejected reloaded pulled trigger no click no bang hmm looking further ah i see you pushed the safety button over must of done it while reloading so i pushed it to fire and bang it went???

Thats not right, it seems with the 96 lever action if you depress trigger as you close action while its safety is on, it locks the trigger past safe and when you push over release safety, Bang! I have tested this but unloaded i will recheck this next with more time back on the range.


this guns at smithy shop now i'd say it a malfunction not a design glitch as retested and compared with my other 2296 wmr i could not repeat problem. my guess connected to trigger job done yonks ago but not known as i or you dont finger back the trigger at load up.... it took a novice to fudge it to find the matter.
 
I have spent a lot of time working on these auto tune saws, some from usa some from england.
They all run the same system, and can be pluged into with the husky diagnostic tool. (which is only good for up dating the software and telling you what the engine was doing when the piston melted)
Some of these new husky saws are really nicely balanced, powerful and easy to use. Great saws but... not every one loves the auto tune (some people have trouble starting them)
I have spent a lot of time and development setting up a carb with an adjustable high and low jet which means you can diconnect the auto tune module and throw it in the bin.
The saw still runs the same and performs the same its just striped back to reliable technology.
I ran a 550xp this morning with the auto tune carb, then disconnected it changed the carb started it up and you could not tell the difference. With the adjustable carb it actually didn't hesitate as much and was just as peeky.
If any one is interested in trying one on their saw please email [email protected]
 
G'day lads.
It's the new old me (rogue60) few stalkers and crap with the old username was time for an update,and yeah think my account was hacked was a mess couldn't even upload a photo?.. Oh well a change is as good as a holiday as they say..But worryingly I still have all the same aches and pains, so much for the holiday ha ha..
 
I have spent a lot of time working on these auto tune saws, some from usa some from england.
They all run the same system, and can be pluged into with the husky diagnostic tool. (which is only good for up dating the software and telling you what the engine was doing when the piston melted)
Some of these new husky saws are really nicely balanced, powerful and easy to use. Great saws but... not every one loves the auto tune (some people have trouble starting them)
I have spent a lot of time and development setting up a carb with an adjustable high and low jet which means you can diconnect the auto tune module and throw it in the bin.
The saw still runs the same and performs the same its just striped back to reliable technology.
I ran a 550xp this morning with the auto tune carb, then disconnected it changed the carb started it up and you could not tell the difference. With the adjustable carb it actually didn't hesitate as much and was just as peeky.
If any one is interested in trying one on their saw please email [email protected]
There are certainly some people who will be interested in this, but I have a couple of questions.
You mention the 550, I can't see the big gain of a manual carb on this saw as it has an adjustable low speed anyway - although hidden under a plug - and the high speed is looked after quite nicely with the autotune. So apart from removing electronics, what's the point?

I assume you are only talking about the 550 and 562 zama carbs, or have you worked on the walbro in the 540 aswell?

I can see how it may be an advantage for the 562 in particular, good luck with your work.
 
Nothing much new here same old really apart from the old man had a brainwave to drive the old skidder from out in the traprock back to the mill and not float it home, something about its not far ha ha famous last words!...Anyways 2 days later its back to fix a blown seal on the grapple , that's why the grapple is a little open in one of the pics heading down the road (its one of the 1st things you will learn driving a skidder to always have the grapple closed unless you want the sidewall ripped out of a 5k tyre...
Long story cut short radiator was blocked up with dust and crap got very hot and blow a hose, stashed it in thick bush off the side of the road overnight.. Got it all sorted the next day with some compressed air to blow the radiator out a new hose and chit loads of new coolant and headed of to eventually find ..............Bitchumen and top gear (3rd) 20 km/hr lookout get out the way skidder coming through! ha ha......


Last pic is of a very old grave and is a sad story.... He was a roo shooter 18 years old and while skinning a roo cut a main artery and bleed to death in the middle of nowhere.....
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg
 
sweet i use Carbaryl to kill wasps but cuz it off market i used all my stock.. i wondered must be a few places left with it like old nursery's or farm supplier so jumped on ebay ubeaut bloke 5 clicks away had heaps of liquid juice in stock he horded when heard to be taken off market. got 2 bottles of Carbaryl Garden Insecticide 200mL David Grays 20ml per 1 litre n 1 litre per nest should last hmm 3 -4 years on my average kill numbers

Carbaryl is still available mate.
 
If Matty1 comes along he might add some more to the story, as he might remember more of the details - I'm just happy it works.

Fipronil has dropped marginally in price but is still expensive. Smallest pack size we can get is 1 litre and it is worth around $375. Expensive yes but from a baiting perspective 1 litre may last more than a decade. You need stuff all. Good thing is that from a safety point of view it is only an S5 Caution so can be bought by anybody, no Chem Cert (S6 is the same actually). You only need a Chem Cert in SA for S7 Dangerous Poisons.
A number of years ago as a consultant we did a lot of work with Fipronil to bait ants in orchards. The magic number was 5ml per 400gm of Honey. Fipronil works slow so the ants take it back to the nest and feed the queen and larvae. Next day you'll be lucky to find one single ant. I've seen absolutely huge ant nests wiped out with two single drops of this honey bait. For meat ants you simply replace the honey with minced meat and use the same rate. It is one of the most awesome chemicals I've seen hit the market in 20 years. I have a number of growers who have bought individual packs simply for ant control. 1 single litre will cover a 400 acre citrus orchard probably 20 times. As potent as it sounds it is very safe for humans and pets. It was originally registered for Banana Weevil in Queensland but now has a few registrations but not for ants or wasps :) If anybody wants some give me a yell but it will cost as the growers who bought some always intended to sell off portions to recoup their costs. Being an S5 it is also safe to post. You're correct regarding registration but in all honesty registration is only relevant if exporting or selling an edible product and you need to abide by a Maximum Residue Limit. from a legal standpoint it is illegal to use any product off label apart from Victoria although even then they have certain restrictions.

Haven't been on for a few days as once again the site had issues and I'm getting no notifications farkit.
 

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