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i.would be interested in some Matt ,how much mate,PM me if you prefer

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It depends on how much you want mate. $40 for 100ml or part thereof. Easiest way to post it is in a syringe as bad as that sounds. It's strong gear mate. You don't need much. I use it around my house for ants and bang, all gone overnight and they don't come back for months. As Andrew (Weedkilla) alluded to it is Very. Bloody. Effective :)
 
It depends on how much you want mate. $40 for 100ml or part thereof. Easiest way to post it is in a syringe as bad as that sounds. It's strong gear mate. You don't need much. I use it around my house for ants and bang, all gone overnight and they don't come back for months. As Andrew (Weedkilla) alluded to it is Very. Bloody. Effective :)

Do you know if this chemical is effective on termites?

Mate of mine who has acreage up on Red Hill wiped out most of the ants around his place, problem was the ants ate the termites now he has a massive termite problem...
 
Do you know if this chemical is effective on termites?

Mate of mine who has acreage up on Red Hill wiped out most of the ants around his place, problem was the ants ate the termites now he has a massive termite problem...

Yeah mate. It's one of the most effective termite chemicals around, apart from DDT, Aldrin, Dieldrin, Heptachlor etc :D That old banned **** is brilliant on termites...
 
Fipronil has dropped marginally in price but is still expensive. Smallest pack size we can get is 1 litre and it is worth around $375. Expensive yes but from a baiting perspective 1 litre may last more than a decade. You need stuff all. Good thing is that from a safety point of view it is only an S5 Caution so can be bought by anybody, no Chem Cert (S6 is the same actually). You only need a Chem Cert in SA for S7 Dangerous Poisons.
A number of years ago as a consultant we did a lot of work with Fipronil to bait ants in orchards. The magic number was 5ml per 400gm of Honey. Fipronil works slow so the ants take it back to the nest and feed the queen and larvae. Next day you'll be lucky to find one single ant. I've seen absolutely huge ant nests wiped out with two single drops of this honey bait. For meat ants you simply replace the honey with minced meat and use the same rate. It is one of the most awesome chemicals I've seen hit the market in 20 years. I have a number of growers who have bought individual packs simply for ant control. 1 single litre will cover a 400 acre citrus orchard probably 20 times. As potent as it sounds it is very safe for humans and pets. It was originally registered for Banana Weevil in Queensland but now has a few registrations but not for ants or wasps :) If anybody wants some give me a yell but it will cost as the growers who bought some always intended to sell off portions to recoup their costs. Being an S5 it is also safe to post. You're correct regarding registration but in all honesty registration is only relevant if exporting or selling an edible product and you need to abide by a Maximum Residue Limit. from a legal standpoint it is illegal to use any product off label apart from Victoria although even then they have certain restrictions.

Haven't been on for a few days as once again the site had issues and I'm getting no notifications farkit.
See - I knew you'd know all the proper details. I just use it!
 
OIL AND FUEL MIX RATIO
was reading a thread on here this morning about and im a bit confused about it, was a test on the heat of the saw and how well the saw ran
isnt the fuel ;oil mix to lube the engine and stop wear
as an example im running my husky 61 at 32;1
could some one explain all this please
 
OIL AND FUEL MIX RATIO
was reading a thread on here this morning about and im a bit confused about it, was a test on the heat of the saw and how well the saw ran
isnt the fuel ;oil mix to lube the engine and stop wear
as an example im running my husky 61 at 32;1
could some one explain all this please

What I understand is as follows;

If you put more oil in your 2 stroke mix, eg. instead of running 50:1 as recommended and using a 91 octane fuel as recommended and you use a ratio of 40:1 or 33:1 then you will need to use an initial higher rated fuel as the adding of oil drops the octane rating....

I mix at around 33:1 also but always use a 95 octane or better rated fuel. Beware of Shell standard 91 octane also, it does contain 5% ethonol but is not advertised as such as there is no need for them to do so under 10% I think the reg is. Others may do this also but I am only aware of Shell doing it so far.
 
been scatchin me noggin tryin to figure out how to fit a micro wind blade assembly onto the turbine hub. Gee wizz i never the Chinese instructions dont line up with the product ?? so gave up did climb job for a neighbor ah my new ropes sweet as tight little stretch no slipy on the pussuk knot just fab... the bloke came over and figured out blade in a jiffy... The hub has a hex key within the end this allows you to tighten it down as other wise it just spins on the shaft duh ,,,he fly s planes knows a bit bout propellers
 
There are certainly some people who will be interested in this, but I have a couple of questions.
You mention the 550, I can't see the big gain of a manual carb on this saw as it has an adjustable low speed anyway - although hidden under a plug - and the high speed is looked after quite nicely with the autotune. So apart from removing electronics, what's the point?

I assume you are only talking about the 550 and 562 zama carbs, or have you worked on the walbro in the 540 aswell?

I can see how it may be an advantage for the 562 in particular, good luck with your work.[/QUOTE


The only reason I have gone to effort to set the saw up with a manual carb, is because I have had quite a few of the professionals that use them say they love the auto tune saws but can't afford to replace them when the auto tune fails and they seize. The other main complaint is they won't start, and all the guys that climb trees want a saw that starts first time.
Husky say you are supposed to pump the bulb 6 times, turn the choke on and then off, pull start it, let it idle for 15 seconds with out touching the throttle, then you can use the saw. (that is for every hot start!!!) can you imagine doing that up a tree!!!
Why do we need a computer on a chainsaw?? Its not like they are fuel injected, it still has a carb and a computer, (worst of both worlds)
Im so tired of trying to help people that feel they have been ripped off as their top of the line saw won't start, and husky don't seem to have any really helpful ideas so I have been forced to take matters into my own hands... ( maybe this is just just an Australia issue?? comments ??)
Im aiming to have all the auto tune saws set up with manual carbs with in the next few months... at least I know I will be able to set up a customers saw and have it reliable for them.
Thank you for any thoughts and ideas ..
 
Picked up another saw today off a mate, so if any one can give me some info on and where the serial no is, that would be great thanks
Mucked around with this thing today, compression tested at 125psi, has spark and with a bit of fuel down the carb it wouldnt fire up, not even a kick, any ideas



 

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