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A short clip placing the fixed side platen to the chassis.



A bit of lol. The 3.5 ton fork couldn't move the bin, so they called in the back up [emoji12] 30 cubic meter bin 3/4 of wood.



How many Patrols will fit in that bin Vince?

I reckon less than the amount of Nivaras...but not as quick to fill either.
 
A short clip placing the fixed side platen to the chassis.



A bit of lol. The 3.5 ton fork couldn't move the bin, so they called in the back up [emoji12] 30 cubic meter bin 3/4 of wood.


There's only a few patrols that have ever really impressed me but that thing is an animal! [emoji2] [emoji106] [emoji15] [emoji106] [emoji2] [emoji106]
 
hey mcw weedy thoughts wisdom on killing gorse Ulex gorse, furze or whin use Triclopyr or ??? but what wetting agent or other handy dandy hints be grateful i got a mates factory become over run est 800 1000 m2 house block of the ***** needs it spanked so planning bak paks Sept Oct spray then tractor harrow & saw hand job stack burn then retreat stumps & once done i got wonderfull field of foolish bunnys to pop

http://dpipwe.tas.gov.au/invasive-s...ared-weeds/gorse/gorse-herbicides-for-control
 
i use grazon extra and i spray when they flower has worked well for me the be problem is how long the seed bank lasts for in the soil the seed can stay viabul for up to 90 years
and the other one iv used slash and heap it up burn it then spray the regrowth.
 
Re Grazeon if you use it, I think you know already :) but wet down every bit of green, a wetting agent like Pulse will help ensure
best results for time and $$'s spent on the job.
 
I wiped out an entire pine plantation with Grazon mixed 30 to one with diesel. Or was it Garlon? can't remember. Had to inject it into the surface roots just below the bark, it worked a treat.....and nobody could see what I'd done.

Got to cut the unhealthy sick and dying trees down after that despite the stupid town planning overlay.

Edit: I spoke directly with an expert from the manufacturer, Dow Corning from memory, and she explained a number of methods to me and what results could be obtained with each one.....invaluable knowledge.
 
hey mcw weedy thoughts wisdom on killing gorse Ulex gorse, furze or whin use Triclopyr or ??? but what wetting agent or other handy dandy hints be grateful i got a mates factory become over run est 800 1000 m2 house block of the ***** needs it spanked so planning bak paks Sept Oct spray then tractor harrow & saw hand job stack burn then retreat stumps & once done i got wonderfull field of foolish bunnys to pop

http://dpipwe.tas.gov.au/invasive-s...ared-weeds/gorse/gorse-herbicides-for-control

Killing gorse is easy enough, and it will die any month of the year. It is the king of compartmentalisation- if you miss one needle it will survive.
Grazon (tryclopyr and picloram) @ 400ml/100l and pulse (polysiloxane) @ 150ml/100l. There are generics for both.

You need to spray from both sides of every bush to wet the whole plant, being careful matters.

Your timeline may be an issue - you really need 12 months. Big and old plants take that long to get the chemical all the way through the root system.
It's a bad idea to burn or push them out with a tractor before 12 months.
Obviously this isn't always possible- just give them as long as you can.

If they are really big and you have time - burn them green and spray the re growth when it is thigh high. You'll cut chemical use in half or better on real big stuff this way. Still needs to sit for 12 months after spraying before it's really dead, so this is only an option for multi year projects.

If it's all smaller stuff - 50mm trunks, shoulder high or less then it all gets easier. I'm assuming all the worst things.
 
hey mcw weedy thoughts wisdom on killing gorse Ulex gorse, furze or whin use Triclopyr or ??? but what wetting agent or other handy dandy hints be grateful i got a mates factory become over run est 800 1000 m2 house block of the ***** needs it spanked so planning bak paks Sept Oct spray then tractor harrow & saw hand job stack burn then retreat stumps & once done i got wonderfull field of foolish bunnys to pop

http://dpipwe.tas.gov.au/invasive-s...ared-weeds/gorse/gorse-herbicides-for-control

I'd run Triclopyr combined with an organosilicone penetrant such as Pulse etc. Don't spray under extreme heat or cold and ensure good soil moisture. Other option is heavy rates of Glypho with Pulse/Brushwet.
 
I'd run Triclopyr combined with an organosilicone penetrant such as Pulse etc. Don't spray under extreme heat or cold and ensure good soil moisture. Other option is heavy rates of Glypho with Pulse/Brushwet.
The "extras" in grazon over straight triclopyr make a pretty significant difference with a new operator - less so with someone who has a couple of years experience.
If I send a new guy into a patch with garlon I expect a 80-90% kill. With grazon I'd see more like 95%. It's that much more forgiving of poor technique - same reason I quote a high rate of grazon per 100l of water.
First summer I employ someone they are pretty useless, it takes about three summers to get good (if they are capable of learning). By that point they use half the total chemical and get 99% kill with half the off target damage.

With gly/metsulf mixes I don't see any difference in end result whether it's a trounce mix (heavy gly, light metsulf) or cut out mix (light gly, heavy metsulf). May take longer for annual grass recovery with the cut out spec - but that's soil and operator dependant aswell.

Which makes me think - I'm going to have to employ some more casuals this summer (at least I hope so - tendering atm). Where can I get some water sensitive paper Matt? Might help as a training tool.
 
The "extras" in grazon over straight triclopyr make a pretty significant difference with a new operator - less so with someone who has a couple of years experience.
If I send a new guy into a patch with garlon I expect a 80-90% kill. With grazon I'd see more like 95%. It's that much more forgiving of poor technique - same reason I quote a high rate of grazon per 100l of water.
First summer I employ someone they are pretty useless, it takes about three summers to get good (if they are capable of learning). By that point they use half the total chemical and get 99% kill with half the off target damage.

With gly/metsulf mixes I don't see any difference in end result whether it's a trounce mix (heavy gly, light metsulf) or cut out mix (light gly, heavy metsulf). May take longer for annual grass recovery with the cut out spec - but that's soil and operator dependant aswell.

Which makes me think - I'm going to have to employ some more casuals this summer (at least I hope so - tendering atm). Where can I get some water sensitive paper Matt? Might help as a training tool.

Interestingly products like Sprayseed, Grazon etc have all lowered the quality (and performance) of their surfactant packages to compete with generic pricing. None of the main brands now work like they used to once the patent expires. I mean Syngenta developed Logran and now don't even sell it as they can't make any money out of it :) That extra metsulphuron helps if there is any hint of Glypho resistance which we have to be careful of around here. I just saw your post regarding adding Pulse :) I came in a bit late!
As far as water sensitive paper goes Syngenta are the only ones doing it. Sounds crazy but they are the only source worldwide. Even if you find a different brand it's still coming from Syngenta. Good mate of mine who I go shooting with a lot is one of the main technical guys for Syngenta Australia. He normally has a bootload of that paper. I can get you some not a problem.
 
As far as glypho/metsulf mixes - I was only talking gorse (and blackberry and Broome). Lots of specific reactions out there.

It's not just the herbicides that have changed, pulse isn't what it used to be either. We increase rates until we don't see any extra improvement- once upon a time that was 100ml/100l. Now it's 150ml and 200ml on some generics.

Then again - that is t taking into account the loss of wetter in the herbicides.... I might be looking at the wrong end.
 
As far as glypho/metsulf mixes - I was only talking gorse (and blackberry and Broome). Lots of specific reactions out there.

It's not just the herbicides that have changed, pulse isn't what it used to be either. We increase rates until we don't see any extra improvement- once upon a time that was 100ml/100l. Now it's 150ml and 200ml on some generics.

Then again - that is t taking into account the loss of wetter in the herbicides.... I might be looking at the wrong end.

Gotcha :) Pulse has changed too. The only actual surfactant scientist in Australia (in agriculture) is the owner of SST who make Brushwet. Companies like Nufarm just on sold other company's products as the Australian agent. Problem with Nufarm is they were more marketing based than science based hence half of their staff recently being made redundant. My bull-shitto-meter always went off the charts when the now redundant reps opened their mouths. Even their national surfactant marketing manager got made redundant. He was a deadset ******** and lying prick.
 
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