the all aussie dribble thread!

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Im a builder.

Sorry, can't help...your draftsman is right, the gutter will run on too much of a grade for it to work, but if you are happy with a variable pitched roof and not conventional Hip/Rafter and Ridge then it can be built easily (depends on type of roofing of course) with a gutter that runs correctly. What you can't see is an elevation of the boundary wall, it'll look stuffed with a conventionally pitched roof, on a big angle.

Why the 200mm offset to the boundary? I'd build it so the gutter sits against the boundary to maximise my site.

200mm to the wall then plus Facia and gutter, so am losing 50mm ish. By variable pitched are you talking about the rear hip being skewed as per my awesome model? Another crap thing is how if you look at the front of the garage I protrude 500mm into the neighbours block. When they subdivided my block they cut around the garage instead of having a straight line. Btw it's going to be just iron roof
 
200mm to the wall then plus Facia and gutter, so am losing 50mm ish. By variable pitched are you talking about the rear hip being skewed as per my awesome model? Another crap thing is how if you look at the front of the garage I protrude 500mm into the neighbours block. When they subdivided my block they cut around the garage instead of having a straight line. Btw it's going to be just iron roof

Gable end is the best solution as mentioned earlier as long as you're allowed the height on that boundary, otherwise I'd go with what the drafty has drawn, a flat rear section of variable pitch lastly...50mm okay I suppose, if you go Gable and can build on the boundary you will only lose about 30 mm to fascia...no gutter needed
 
Over the last thirty years just about every and anything. Had a small engineering shop employing 4-5 blokes prior to the Beijing Olympics, the Chinese appetite for steel and the out of control price increases made it no longer viable.

Ahh very cool, I grew up in an engineering shop and haven't strayed very far from that line of work since.
 
Some advice for the avid saw users amongst us. I do not suggest running your saw without a clutch drum bearing... it will mess shiz up. Fortunately the crankshaft is fine (super good steel) but a few other things have melted/overheated/roasted/cooked. Hmm some people should just not run saws at all :buttkick:
 
Some advice for the avid saw users amongst us. I do not suggest running your saw without a clutch drum bearing... it will miss shiz up. Fortunately the crankshaft is fine (super good steel) but a few other things have melted/overheated/roasted/cooked. Hmm some people should just not run saws at all :buttkick:
Or with out a rim as I found yesterday
 
Some advice for the avid saw users amongst us. I do not suggest running your saw without a clutch drum bearing... it will mess shiz up. Fortunately the crankshaft is fine (super good steel) but a few other things have melted/overheated/roasted/cooked. Hmm some people should just not run saws at all :buttkick:

Please tell me you haven't been doing this to 'our' good saw!o_O
 
1000 ton closing pressure diecasting machine.:popcorn2:




I think your mounting system/floor work looks like an afterthought Vince. I doubt the slab will sustain that weight if there's much vibration....what ever happened the using bridge mounts if you need to isolate the vibration or HD bolts and fully grouting if not?
 
hey Vince who do you get to make your moulds

We make our own. I work in the toolroom.

I think your mounting system/floor work looks like an afterthought Vince. I doubt the slab will sustain that weight if there's much vibration....what ever happened the using bridge mounts if you need to isolate the vibration or HD bolts and fully grouting if not?

No after thought. It's sitting on a slab that's approx 1 metre thick.

I have loaded up some pics of the 2800 ton machine we installed 3 years ago. I'll just post the one pic and hopefully you can scroll thru the library.



http://s207.photobucket.com/user/VinceGU05/library/2800 ton Buhler machine
 
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