the all aussie dribble thread!

[Lisnm8]

one off design will cost you $$ as they have to work out the fit structure dynamic & roof iron work cuts..Idea maybe,,,, get them to design build the basic square roof and truss at front then you fill in the rear remainder in your own time cost and effort be a bit of jig saw but may get what you want

Problem with squaring it of ill have a wall in the way when I "extend" it. I am doing rafters and not trusses so I can work it out onsite. Just not sure if council need exact angles etc or will I have a little wriggle room on design as I go.

 

[scallywag]

Had a few hrs spare this morning, so I attacked the 090 bottom end....

She's an early one!.....Two piece conrod and a white throttle trigger.
what sort of nik are the clutch shoes in?

 

[billyj]

im a chippy, any reason not to just use a simple straight gable roof, no dicking about with hips on the angle. and should look reasonable from all sides. done it a few times looks good works well.

basically it will work that the last rafter follows the angle of the rear wall. a bit of a cross between a common rafter and a hip. also makes it alot easier to support the roof, with a ridge prop each end and just collar ties in between. assuming a zinc or colour bond roof your going to need probly 190x45 rafters on 900 centres and 90x35 battens also on 900 centres

where are you located mate?

feel free to yell out with any questions.

 

[postrip]

She's an early one!.....Two piece conrod and a white throttle trigger.
what sort of nik are the clutch shoes in?

Yeah she's an oldie!
The clutch shoes aren't to bad, still lots of meat on them, & still bonded well.
It now has a strong bottom end, new 1 piece rod, new mains,seals and full gasket kit all oem.... Oh and a new set of rings
I'm waiting still on a new l/end bearing to complete the build and fire the big girl up.

 

[Lisnm8]

any reason not to just use a simple straight gable roof, no dicking about with hips on the angle. and should look reasonable from all sides. done it a few times and works well.

are you going to use trusses or have an old school stick roof built? if you go trusses and stick to a straight gable you can have them designed to give good storage space in the celing

Am going old school stick roof, am happy to do gable roof but not sure how it will follow the rear wall angle? If I square it off I lose 1.5m of valuable workbench area.

 

[billyj]

see my post above, i was editing it as you posted. i can draw up a rough sketch gimmie a few mins

 

[Rudolf73]

Am going old school stick roof, am happy to do gable roof but not sure how it will follow the rear wall angle? If I square it off I lose 1.5m of valuable workbench area.

I think it can work. If it were me I'd get something like a 6x6m kit shed from a local company and then just buy a few extra bits to fill in the triangle by myself in my own time. There will be a bit of messing around. A custom shed designed for you with those angles would be rather pricey.

 

[billyj]

Hope this pic helps

 

[billyj]

just a quick drawing of the rafter plan to do a straight gable. grab a copy of this book its the bible of building a stick roof. which sadly is a dying art. very few chippies left that know how its done. seems all they learn these days is how to slap together prefab frames and trusses

https://www.boffinsbookshop.com.au/...10th-edition?gclid=CJ_31LGz6cYCFYgIvAod0EIH7g

 

[Lisnm8]

Hope this pic helps

The thing I can't get my head around is on the side were the roof gets smaller(narrows), left of the ridge. How do I gutter it to catch the water. That's why I went with hip roof

 

[billyj]

you put a boxed gutter along the inside of the facia on that section

 

[scallywag]

this book its the bible of building a stick roof.

I have a copy of that book, 6th edition in imperial.

 

[Rudolf73]

I have a copy of that book, 6th edition in imperial.

Uhh ohh, not imperial... lol

 

[scallywag]

A custom shed designed for you with those angles would be rather pricey

Ok, this is how I'd approach it if you were my customer, bearing in mind I work in steel, I'd take your roof dimensions and build the complete roof frame on the factory floor as a bolt together portal beam kit, this allows the customer to see how the structure works and how they need to reassemble it.

 

[scallywag]

Uhh ohh, not imerial... lol

Ha!.......I also speak whitworth!

 

[Lisnm8]

see my post above, i was editing it as you posted. i can draw up a rough sketch gimmie a few mins

Thanks for the tips guys and Billyj thanks for your help appreciate it. I now need to determine these stupid council side and rear setbacks which will no doubt will shaft me again. This sheds going to cost more than the car it's being build for!!!! Wish my block wasn't a shoebox

 

[Lisnm8]

Ha!.......I also speak whitworth!

Whitworth can eat a fat one, the rear unis on vs Commodores are Whitworth a ground down 14mm spanner is also witworth apparently

 

[scallywag]

Whitworth can eat a fat one,

Well, Whitworth did eat a fat one!..........Hermann Goering!

 

[chippy]

Any builders, drafties or someone that can help in the design of my garage. My boundary Line is on an angle as per pic, I want to do a pitched roof and a rear hip to accommodate the angle of my boundary. I understand the hip will look a bit stupid but it's facing a lane way so not fussed. It will be a bit skewed but My draftsman wants to just do the back section flat roofed. And said if hipped the rear gutter will be on to much of a fall. I don't get it? Why can't it work?

I understand the trusses will be a nightmare but I don't want a flat roof, being 6"4 I need all the head room I can get. And I can't simply move the hole garage forward....I even banged up a quick scale model lol and my thick head can't see why it won't work View attachment 436837View attachment 436838View attachment 436839

Im a builder.

Sorry, can't help...your draftsman is right, the gutter will run on too much of a grade for it to work, but if you are happy with a variable pitched roof and not conventional Hip/Rafter and Ridge then it can be built easily (depends on type of roofing of course) with a gutter that runs correctly. What you can't see is an elevation of the boundary wall, it'll look stuffed with a conventionally pitched roof, on a big angle.

Why the 200mm offset to the boundary? I'd build it so the gutter sits against the boundary to maximise my site.

 

[Rudolf73]

Ok, this is how I'd approach it if you were my customer, bearing in mind I work in steel, I'd take your roof dimensions and build the complete roof frame on the factory floor as a bolt together portal beam kit, this allows the customer to see how the structure works and how they need to reassemble it.

Yup that would take the headache out of it for sure. What kind of steel work are you in Phil?