AUSSIE1
Al.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 8,004
- Reaction score
- 1,979
:msp_thumbsup:
the all aussie dribble thread!
- Thread starter masculator
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
:msp_thumbsup:
stihl_collector
ArboristSite Operative
Pm sent.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Is that like Tennis Elbow?
Best bet would be to PM Brad Snelling regarding the 660 tank Trav. Only just got your PM mate and will reply in a sec. Haven't been online much this weekend - the missus took a heap of wedding photos the other weekend so she's been editing those flat out.
All I did today was run around with the little 353 chopping up some dead mallee. Great little saw that thing
Hulsty
ArboristSite Operative
Hi Guys,
Good to see a solid aussie contingent here! I found this site while googleing for info on a future purchase, thought you guys might be able to offer some advice.
I've been around guys chainsawing, my whole life (firewood runs mainly and I worked on bucket trucks for guys doing power line clearing work) and its about time I bought my own and learnt to use it properly. I'm looking for something that will live in the back of my 4x4 for track clearing and firewood collection on trips which will not happen that often, maybe every 2nd month. I also have some trees to clear in the back yard, biggest gum is probably 2-3' diameter at the base. To this end I want to buy something decent that will last me a lifetime. The top end of my budget would be $800. I've have been looking in the Stihl cataloge and think maybe a MS230-250 ? Any other recomendations? And any recommendations on where to purchase from at a good price? I'm in Melbourne, eastern suburbs.
http://www.stihl.com.au/catalogue/STIHL_WinterCatalogue2011.pdf
Looking on ebay I found this, but am struggling with if they are legit or not, ie chinese copies.
Stihl MS250 Chainsaw (BRAND NEW) | eBay
Good to see a solid aussie contingent here! I found this site while googleing for info on a future purchase, thought you guys might be able to offer some advice.
I've been around guys chainsawing, my whole life (firewood runs mainly and I worked on bucket trucks for guys doing power line clearing work) and its about time I bought my own and learnt to use it properly. I'm looking for something that will live in the back of my 4x4 for track clearing and firewood collection on trips which will not happen that often, maybe every 2nd month. I also have some trees to clear in the back yard, biggest gum is probably 2-3' diameter at the base. To this end I want to buy something decent that will last me a lifetime. The top end of my budget would be $800. I've have been looking in the Stihl cataloge and think maybe a MS230-250 ? Any other recomendations? And any recommendations on where to purchase from at a good price? I'm in Melbourne, eastern suburbs.
http://www.stihl.com.au/catalogue/STIHL_WinterCatalogue2011.pdf
Looking on ebay I found this, but am struggling with if they are legit or not, ie chinese copies.
Stihl MS250 Chainsaw (BRAND NEW) | eBay
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
G'day Hultsy, good to have another Aussie aboard.
Value for money and buying here you can't really go past these Makita 64cc Petrol Chainsaw 2-Stroke DCS6401 | eBay
Comes in under your budget including freight, will pull a 20" bar in dead Box well, and is understressed as it's designed for a 79cc top end so rather than the 64cc this one has so easily will last a lifetime of casual use and has full factory warranty as it's from a genuine Australian Makita dealer.
I've never done it but from those that have, it outperforms even modified/ported MS361 Stihls. Actually, here's a recent post http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/175639-2.htm#post3033381
Value for money and buying here you can't really go past these Makita 64cc Petrol Chainsaw 2-Stroke DCS6401 | eBay
Comes in under your budget including freight, will pull a 20" bar in dead Box well, and is understressed as it's designed for a 79cc top end so rather than the 64cc this one has so easily will last a lifetime of casual use and has full factory warranty as it's from a genuine Australian Makita dealer.
I've never done it but from those that have, it outperforms even modified/ported MS361 Stihls. Actually, here's a recent post http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/175639-2.htm#post3033381
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Welcome to AS mate
That MS250 looks legit and is at least coming from a fellow Aussie. If it was coming out of China it would most definately be a fake.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Yep, that'd be my choice for sure - excellent deal too actually and you would be flat out matching that from the states. Thats a genuine pro class saw, unlike the MS250.
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
AUSSIE1
Al.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 8,004
- Reaction score
- 1,979
I'll third that on the Makita.
Can't beat that for value.
I have recommended these a few times to fella's wanting a 4wd saw.
When time and budget allows, take it up to 79 or 84cc's.
Can't beat that for value.
I have recommended these a few times to fella's wanting a 4wd saw.
When time and budget allows, take it up to 79 or 84cc's.
David (saltas)
Addicted to ArboristSite
@ terry and rick
Keep up the carby chat, I have not said anything as I'm a slide carby kinda guy, but I am reading with interest.
I'm about to get on the train / bus back to dubbo and pick up the car, not all of it was done as some trims were on back order untill mid august.
I'm a little nervous that there will be a crack in the tranny cooler line, or a damaged engine mount, etc, etc. That they have not found and that I dont find in a quick test drive round town before I load up the family and head home
I would like to have caught up with a few of you while I was in the cold country
Keep up the carby chat, I have not said anything as I'm a slide carby kinda guy, but I am reading with interest.
I'm about to get on the train / bus back to dubbo and pick up the car, not all of it was done as some trims were on back order untill mid august.
I'm a little nervous that there will be a crack in the tranny cooler line, or a damaged engine mount, etc, etc. That they have not found and that I dont find in a quick test drive round town before I load up the family and head home
I would like to have caught up with a few of you while I was in the cold country
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cold country? Well, think about us when summer comes and you're sweltering in heat and humidity.
I got a chance to test out the new POP today. Did some cutting and noticed that the saw had a new bark/snarl to it when revving. I suspect it has to do with the leaning affect of the sudden strato butterfly opening. Now, with a bit more fuel available the saw was revving with more authority. I do admit, I liked the sound.
After getting the saw good and hot, I did have to lean out both the L and H needles. That took away some of the bark upon revving.
After the re-tune, I did some high speed limbing and there was no change. I also stuck the 20" bar into an old stump and put a load on it. I pulled it down to peak torque, then lower, then lower, then lower - it just kept running cleanly. I stopped going any further as it had to be stressing the saw and there's now way I would ever hit those revs when I was cutting.
I also laid the saw on each side and let it idle. It continued to idle without loading up.
I'm going to take off another loop as I would like to get that bark back when revving.
I got a chance to test out the new POP today. Did some cutting and noticed that the saw had a new bark/snarl to it when revving. I suspect it has to do with the leaning affect of the sudden strato butterfly opening. Now, with a bit more fuel available the saw was revving with more authority. I do admit, I liked the sound.
After getting the saw good and hot, I did have to lean out both the L and H needles. That took away some of the bark upon revving.
After the re-tune, I did some high speed limbing and there was no change. I also stuck the 20" bar into an old stump and put a load on it. I pulled it down to peak torque, then lower, then lower, then lower - it just kept running cleanly. I stopped going any further as it had to be stressing the saw and there's now way I would ever hit those revs when I was cutting.
I also laid the saw on each side and let it idle. It continued to idle without loading up.
I'm going to take off another loop as I would like to get that bark back when revving.
Hulsty
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for that guys, I had never given a Makita Chainsaw a thought, I have seen them in Bunnings, just walked past and but them into the same basket as half the other junk they sell.
They certainly seem to be much better value than the Stihls I have been looking at, my mate just bought a 391 with similar specs to the Makita and it cost over $1100!
My only concern is that maybe that saw its a little big for what I want to do? Or am I better off going slightly larger than what I need, I have also just seen some decent priced Echos, my Dads one has never given him any trouble in 25 years.
billyj
ArboristSite Operative
another vote for the makita, got a feeling mine is going to get a work out this weekend on the tracks at tallarook, been bloody windy down here today
Last edited:
masculator
ArboristSite Guru
Our local bj bearings has the6401 makitas for $869 or 899 if you could stretch the budget a little bit, or maybe look at the likes of a shindaiwa or oleo mac they are reasonably priced and fairly good machines. The oleo macs have a 5 year warranty to boot.
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's some carby photos, (Zama C3-M, Dolmar/Makita) stock and lightly modified.
Stockies first.
[edit]
Bottom photo you can see the transition and LS jets.
The main LS/idle jet is the large hole front and centre, bottom of the throttle bore.
The two transition jets are on the bottom RHS, back near the end of the venturi. These are fed from the LS circuit.
There is another transition jet that is fed directly from the metering chamber on the LHS of the photo, roughly in line with the other two transition jets.
The transition jets feed fuel into the throat as the butterfly progresses from idle/closed to full throttle.
In this in between stage the idle/LS circuit doesn't allow enough fuel to match the increased airflow, and the depression across the main jet hasn't increased enough to start to draw adequate fuel.
Older style carbies don't have these and so can run partially lean on part throttle, hence why it was always recommended to full throttle or nothing on OPE.
Stockies first.
[edit]
Bottom photo you can see the transition and LS jets.
The main LS/idle jet is the large hole front and centre, bottom of the throttle bore.
The two transition jets are on the bottom RHS, back near the end of the venturi. These are fed from the LS circuit.
There is another transition jet that is fed directly from the metering chamber on the LHS of the photo, roughly in line with the other two transition jets.
The transition jets feed fuel into the throat as the butterfly progresses from idle/closed to full throttle.
In this in between stage the idle/LS circuit doesn't allow enough fuel to match the increased airflow, and the depression across the main jet hasn't increased enough to start to draw adequate fuel.
Older style carbies don't have these and so can run partially lean on part throttle, hence why it was always recommended to full throttle or nothing on OPE.
Last edited:
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Yeah, like THAT'S gonna happen with a saw involving an AS member Rick...
tdi-rick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Modified.
You can see on # 3 where I had to patch the floor of the venturi where I went through the LS circuit.
I knew I was close, but i had to scratch it with a file (just to check) to go through.
I couldn't have got that tiny little void right in the centre of the top patch if i'd tried
Area of the throttle bore has increased by >16% just by thinning the shaft and screw.
You can see on # 3 where I had to patch the floor of the venturi where I went through the LS circuit.
I knew I was close, but i had to scratch it with a file (just to check) to go through.
I couldn't have got that tiny little void right in the centre of the top patch if i'd tried
Area of the throttle bore has increased by >16% just by thinning the shaft and screw.
AUSSIE1
Al.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 8,004
- Reaction score
- 1,979
That's carby p@rn Rick!
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rick, nice work on the carb. I like that transistion jet concept, it would probably work well on a strato saw where the strato butterfly is opening at about that position for the carburetor butterfly.
I note that cast and pre-drilled centre for what appears to be an air correction jet. Whoever designed that carb had a few extra ideas for what may be needed in the future.
You cleaned it up well, I may have to go back into my carb and clean up the choke butterfly/shaft/screw - mine is stock and although I don't think it impedes any flow, it sure as heck doesn't look as nice as your's does.
I note that cast and pre-drilled centre for what appears to be an air correction jet. Whoever designed that carb had a few extra ideas for what may be needed in the future.
You cleaned it up well, I may have to go back into my carb and clean up the choke butterfly/shaft/screw - mine is stock and although I don't think it impedes any flow, it sure as heck doesn't look as nice as your's does.
