I’d never use 100:1 on anything with value. I’m quite happy with 50:1 in Saber or 32:1 Castrol Activ. Both burn really well and I use both interchangeably.
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I’ve tuned all 2 stroke equipment, new and old to 32:1. No problems with carbon, fouling, or performance. I’ve used Husqvarna XP the most. Red Armor is new for me and I like it. I have no intention fooling with other ratios or using others mix.
I also use 87 E10 pump gas. No problems with burn quality here in Massachusetts. I keep gas 1 yr maximum. Change fuel lines and carb diaphragms every 8-9 years, sometimes cause there junk, sometimes just for a preventative. I don’t drain anything for its 6 mo down time.
Oil threads are so slippery!
I use 40:1 Redmax
I made a little measuring cup that has just the right amount for 1 gallon of gas.
I use pump gas, and start and run all my saws at least every month year-round anyway, so storage isn't an issue.
I use 40:1 Redmax
I made a little measuring cup that has just the right amount for 1 gallon of gas.
I use pump gas, and start and run all my saws at least every month year-round anyway, so storage isn't an issue.
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
I ran every stupid cheap 2 stroke TCW2 in my Mercs for years and never had a problem I even read in the Merc handbook that 100/1 is ok if it is warm and used several days a week, so, I ran Merc @ 100/1 for years that way with Merc TCW2 ( It was TCW2back then). Never a problem. However, I fished 3 times a week. I ran Junk Shipmate? in my Stihl for 5 yrs. @ 50/1 and never a problem with my 011 and ran it very hard cause it was so small.. I then bought my Stihl 034 in March 1992. I ran the cheapest stuff for years, then Amsoil at 128/1 for a while, then decided that was dumb, so I kept it simple at 2 oz. per gallon ( 64/1) Then I read something that made sense . You can run 100/1 and it runs cooler , however, oil in the gas gives it more compression, therefore the reason for more heat. So, I decided 50/1 is better yet. Sure,, more heat , but more oil to keep the engine safe . Since then, after about 20 yrs. I have used Amsoil Saber in my chainsaws and trimmer . Never a problem. One day my 034 didnt start . It has been my main saw for 31 yrs. I take it in and the mechanic said compression was good. Now, how can that be??? if Amsoil is junk? The truth is very likely , no one wants to admit it but we forget to mix the oil . Amsoil sits on the bottom and you need to shake it up a LOT! . If not, you may be running straight gas. Many here wont admit it but put in a 1 gal. of mix in a 2 gallons of gas... , but would never dawn on them it could have been their error, so ,, the saw freezes and And Amsoil must be junk.. I catch myself making mistakes also. I forgot last week to prime a whole row of rifle cases and reloaded some up to find powder coming out of the primer hole... Stuff happens to the best of us. Now I just run Amsoil in my saws @ 50/1. After 35 yrs. I came back full circle to where I started.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
Where I come out in all of this is that I believe it is possible for a good oil to work at 100:1. But I use Amsoil saber at 50:1 because I am sure it is safe. Spending a few more bucks to be sure my 500i will run problem-free is worth it. And yes, we all make mistakes. I never made a mistake with my 2 cycle oil, but I wrecked a MS441C when I changed the spark plug without thoroughly cleaning the saw. Sawdust got in the engine and it lost so much compression it had no power and would stall when hot. The MS44C was not sleeved, so it would need a new block as well as piston and crankshaft. In short, most of a new saw. They estimated $1100 for a repair. But I ended up buying my 500i for $1180. I think that was a very good deal.
Are you saying that getting sawdust in the cylinder while changing a spark plug did that much damage?
My Stihl blower runs great with open headers, and either Sabre or Red Armor. Tunes easier too.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes. The saw ran fine until that happened. The cylinder walls were heavily scored.
Why were you changing the plug?
I don't think that caused the problem !
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
I had the saw for at least 10 years, so I figured it was time. The old plug looked still usable, but there was some wear on the electrodes. Not a lot of buildup, though.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
The change was very sudden. The saw went from running great to being almost unusable within 1 tankful. And before you say it was bad gas, I used the remaining fuel in the can to fill up my new 500i. I have run the 500i for 3 years now; no problems.
Not enough junk could fall in a plug hole to totally destroy the cylinder and piston and crank, I think you said, right?
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
Probably the crank was OK. But the dealer does not rebuild that way. For sure, a new casing, piston and rings would be needed. all I can say is the saw would not run well, and it looked pretty bad inside.
Sloughfoot
ArboristSite Member
Anyone putting octane boost in the mix?
I believe sawdust is not hard enough to score a cylinder
Wear it out eventually under continual ingestion yes, but in this case no!
Nah, saws don't need it.
Octane boosters barely do anything at the suggested mix ratio. Raises octane by 2-3 points doesn't mean 93 becomes 94-95, it means 93 becomes 93.2-93.3.
If you truly need the higher octane (almost nobody does), you're better off just running a higher octane fuel.
Similar threads
