The best 2 stroke oil?

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Guys, this happened within 1 tankful after changing the spark plug. The new plug was an OEM replacement, properly gapped. The fuel was the same as I had been using for years, and it worked fine in the new 500i that replaced it. I do know that some sawdust got in when I removed the old plug. I figured it would just blow out quickly. I won't make that mistake again. I cannot think of another plausible explanation.
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.
 
Octane to a 2stroke means quite a lot, if you do not believe it! try some G100UL avgas or tubo blue racing fuel. There's also some 115 Octane low lead (if you know someone with a plane) that can buy it! I use to run it in my WR430 Husqvarna, took the ping-ping right out of it. It run cooler and the rings lasted twice as long! The higher the compression ratio is 2 or 4 stroke engines the more they like high octane fuel. Lead means nothing to a 2stroke engine, it was used to cool the exhaust valves in 4stroke engines. Be more afraid of ethanol in your gas than lead (ethanol alcohol) mixes with water and then separates for the gasoline an causes rust on chainsaw crankshaft bearings and corrosion on aluminum and magnesium surfaces inside your engine! (the reason that you need to use a 2stroke oil that will coat the inside engine surfaces long after you stop using your saw at the end of the year. There was an oil called Golden Spectro that all of us Husky riders used. It left a ugly brown coating inside the engine that did not hurt anything ( did not have to worry about seizing your engine) I use castor927 now it is made with castor oil and clings to the complete inside of your engine! (year around).
 
OTOH,
50:1 never seemed right to me. 100:1 sounds like a new engine. I use whatever 50:1 2 cycle I find and mix it 40:1. Seems to work
I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.
 
OTOH,

I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.
That sounds like bad luck to me. I doubt name brand Dyno at 40:1 was the cause since full syn is not that old
 
What seized the piston ring was a micro thin layer of carbon, so thin that it looked like MAGIC MARKER, but it locked that ring so tight I had to break to remove ring, and then hammer out the remnants, so Yeah, it was the name brand dino oil. When I installed new ring, (maybe ca.2010?), Echo was the ONLY MFR pushing synthetic and offering 5-year warranty. It was at least 5 more years before Stihl changed from their "1-year warranty". My thought in 2010, and still is "Echo believes in their oil". ECHO POWER BLEND been MY GoTo since 2010. As REDLINE oil website said "At what temperature does your oil change from a lube to an adhesive goo?"
 
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.

A used toothbrush secured to the handle with a piece of string ( drill a hole in handle) works too.
 
It's a very-very dirty burning oil.
My own experience has confirmed what was claimed for so long in this forum .
It is a JASO-FB graded oil ,which means that it's standards date back to the late '70s -early '80s.
Modern 2-stroke engines are made with tighter tolerances ,ignition modules are fully electronic controlled ,alloys are far better and the most important 2T oil chemistry has improved by far regarding lubricity ,residual carbon ,hydrocarbon emissions and toxicity.

HP Ultra is an outdated 2T oil.
And unjustifiable expensive.
Most probably is the worst 2T mix oil carrying a serious brandname.
Folks at Stihl should be ashamed not only for offering such product ,
but also for thinking that we're stupid enough .

Please note that all my equipment
are made from Stihl and actually I'm an orange blooded fan .
But neither I'm blind ,neither have
lost the ability to judge regarding the quality of a product.
Hp ultra is mixed and packaged by Omni who also mixes and packages Castrol and several other brand name oils. The HP produces some of the worst carbon deposits I've ever seen and the Ultra isn't much better. I used Ultra for almost a decade and got so tired of clogged spark screens I switched to Red Armor and never looked back. My question is does anyone know what 2t oil produces the lowest cylinder temps. Imo the worst enemies of a chainsaw, heat, carbon, and ethanol. You keep a saw cool and clean with a fresh piston and rings every 150-200 hrs or so and a saw can last a lifetime. A lot of these new saws are so restricted from the factory a slight muffler mod can affect cylinder temps significantly. Every newer saw I rebuild and sell sell gets a muffler mod especially the homeowner models, not so much for performance as it is for reliability. Those plastic cased clamshell style saws don't dissipate heat well at all.
 
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.
I have been doing that ever since I wrecked my MS441C with sawdust getting into the cylinder. Less severe if it gets into the fuel or oil tanks, but clogging a filter is not good.
 
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