Sloughfoot
ArboristSite Member
I put that stuff in everything!Erhh both?
I put that stuff in everything!Erhh both?
Is it cost-effective?I put that stuff in everything!
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.Guys, this happened within 1 tankful after changing the spark plug. The new plug was an OEM replacement, properly gapped. The fuel was the same as I had been using for years, and it worked fine in the new 500i that replaced it. I do know that some sawdust got in when I removed the old plug. I figured it would just blow out quickly. I won't make that mistake again. I cannot think of another plausible explanation.
I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.50:1 never seemed right to me. 100:1 sounds like a new engine. I use whatever 50:1 2 cycle I find and mix it 40:1. Seems to work
That sounds like bad luck to me. I doubt name brand Dyno at 40:1 was the cause since full syn is not that oldOTOH,
I tried name brand dyno 2-cycle dino oil at 40:1 to break in my new $700 saw milling some years back; it seized a ring on last cut of day 2, and I thought out of gas... did not find out until 2yrs later due to back issue.... have always run Echo synthetic oil at 50:1 since, in all equipment, no issues.
I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.
Hp ultra is mixed and packaged by Omni who also mixes and packages Castrol and several other brand name oils. The HP produces some of the worst carbon deposits I've ever seen and the Ultra isn't much better. I used Ultra for almost a decade and got so tired of clogged spark screens I switched to Red Armor and never looked back. My question is does anyone know what 2t oil produces the lowest cylinder temps. Imo the worst enemies of a chainsaw, heat, carbon, and ethanol. You keep a saw cool and clean with a fresh piston and rings every 150-200 hrs or so and a saw can last a lifetime. A lot of these new saws are so restricted from the factory a slight muffler mod can affect cylinder temps significantly. Every newer saw I rebuild and sell sell gets a muffler mod especially the homeowner models, not so much for performance as it is for reliability. Those plastic cased clamshell style saws don't dissipate heat well at all.It's a very-very dirty burning oil.
My own experience has confirmed what was claimed for so long in this forum .
It is a JASO-FB graded oil ,which means that it's standards date back to the late '70s -early '80s.
Modern 2-stroke engines are made with tighter tolerances ,ignition modules are fully electronic controlled ,alloys are far better and the most important 2T oil chemistry has improved by far regarding lubricity ,residual carbon ,hydrocarbon emissions and toxicity.
HP Ultra is an outdated 2T oil.
And unjustifiable expensive.
Most probably is the worst 2T mix oil carrying a serious brandname.
Folks at Stihl should be ashamed not only for offering such product ,
but also for thinking that we're stupid enough .
Please note that all my equipment
are made from Stihl and actually I'm an orange blooded fan .
But neither I'm blind ,neither have
lost the ability to judge regarding the quality of a product.
I have been doing that ever since I wrecked my MS441C with sawdust getting into the cylinder. Less severe if it gets into the fuel or oil tanks, but clogging a filter is not good.I started practice of carry 2" paint brush, and I clear the oil/ fuel caps of chips before and during opening to keep trash out of the tanks, HIGHLY RECOMMEND this practice. Cut the handle shorter to your preferred length.
So what oil is best?This is such a new and informative thread.
Do you really think anyone here knows?So what oil is best?
Do you really think anyone here knows?
Any FD rated full synthetic or semi syn that wasn't developed 15-20 years ago is going to be pretty good. I think the best is what's readily available in your area at a decent price point.So what oil is best?
I've only heard of the the Saber mix oil. Is Amsoil Dominator a new product? Let us know how you like it.I have been running VP racing oil but have recently acquired some Amsoil Dominator and will be running that at 32:1