The Case for Full Wraps and Long Bars, Pt.II

[smokechase II]

recent evidence for full wrap

This was posted a couple days ago:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9177398792929918170

 

[GASoline71]

You sure you got the right vid? Didn't look like a wrap was needed there at all.

Gary

 

[smokechase II]

yes and no

It wasn't absolutely needed. You're right.

It's just easier from that side.

Multiply that by a days/weeks work.

Fatique is a major cause of saw/cutting accidents.

That cutter could also use dawgs or let what he has do the work.

 

[Gologit]

I actually had rep available! I got ya Jeff.

Anybody wanna experience cuttin' on those side hills... just come on up to the PNW, we'll find you a tree. Cuttin' BIG wood in someones yard is a far cry from fallin' BIG TIMBER on sidehills.

Good thread Jeff.

Gary

Yup. You said what I wanted to say. I'd rep ya but...oh well. I'd like to see some of the people critical of what we do try to just follow our fallers around for a day. They wouldn't have to make any cuts but they'd have to carry the same weight. Kinda like the Doug Fir Olympics.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

the standard

The standar for us around here full wrap, and 32" bar. with that set up we can do just about anything we need too. I agree with jeff though if he remembers I mentioned that too before, and it seem to fire up some people but that works for us. I carry two saws always, a 20" ,and a 28" or 32". Each serve ther perpous but I use both off, and on throughout the job smaller stuff on the tree I shut down my big saw, and grab the 20" Less hours on my big saw, and I save it for the big stuff sure it will cut it faster, but I am not as tired an my big saw has less hours, and not wasted cutting little stuff. My point is Im not going to put a 20" bar on my 044 or a 066 my 20" saw is just that, and it will do alot, but if I could put a full wrap on it I would. I just tokk down a 50" tan oak, and it was so much easier with the full wrap having to make two cutts, and using different angles.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Cuttin' BIG wood in someones yard is a far cry from fallin' BIG TIMBER on sidehills.

Good point, and the flush cut stump is another thing that doesn't apply here. Someone's yard, and a clear cut call for different stump height. You do need to leave a short stump, but never flush cut.

I'm not saying that this set up is for everyone, or that it's the only way to run a saw. This is just for those who continually ask, "yeah, buy why is that again?"

Glad everyone is enjoying the pics.

And sorry, no steelhead that day. The water was still a bit high after a storm we'd had, and it was still just a bit too big for a fly tackle. The weather was nice, and the time out was good. I'll be back at it Friday and Saturday, but have duty on Sunday. Gary, you remember anything about duty and sliders? HAHA!

 

[GASoline71]

And sorry, no steelhead that day. The water was still a bit high after a storm we'd had, and it was still just a bit too big for a fly tackle. The weather was nice, and the time out was good. I'll be back at it Friday and Saturday, but have duty on Sunday. Gary, you remember anything about duty and sliders? HAHA!

I went up on the Sauk/Skagit and the Sauk was damn near completely blown out. Skagit was lookin' "fishable" but a little high. Had one hookup, which i believe was prolly a big Dolly Varden... but didn't get it to the bank.

Hey... I used to like those sliders on duty days... we used to get them for midrats too... Seems like yesterday.... oh wait it almost was! HA! Bein' retired is nice Jeff... I know you looik forward to it.

Gary

 

[Tree Sling'r]

This was posted a couple days ago:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9177398792929918170

Sharp chain?
I like the 3 foot stump and how the guy never looked up the tree once.

Typical...all I have too say.

Okay... I am officially buying a video camera. Soon as we get going again I post a vid or two and get things on the straight and narrow.
Too much talk.

 

[Timberhauler]

This was posted a couple days ago:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9177398792929918170

I was taught to make my back-cut three to four inches above where the lower cut is,where he cut the wedge out.This keeps the tree from twisting,and keeps the butt from pushing back at you if the tree happened to hit something on the way down.Maybe I've been doing it the wrong way for twenty years...Second,that saw didn't seem that sharp.My 440 would have blown that tree in about half that time.

 

[livewire]

I was taught to make my back-cut three to four inches above where the lower cut is,where he cut the wedge out.This keeps the tree from twisting,and keeps the butt from pushing back at you if the tree happened to hit something on the way down.Maybe I've been doing it the wrong way for twenty years...Second,that saw didn't seem that sharp.My 440 would have blown that tree in about half that time.

I've been seeing alot of stumps in clearcuts with parralell backcuts!!! I can't find any reading where it's taught but it's confusing and contradictory to the standard method (backcut higher)

What gives?????

 

[Timberhauler]

I've been seeing alot of stumps in clearcuts with parralell backcuts!!! I can't find any reading where it's taught but it's confusing and contradictory to the standard method (backcut higher)

What gives?????

That is what I mean...Backcut higher

 

[Industry]

That video is not something I would show proudly if I were the one with the saw. If you look closely he cut through his hinge material on the near side of the tree. I always make my(nearly) vertical cut for the scarf first, then horizontal, and NEVER start a backcut without cleaning the scarf so the two lines meet perfectly. then, depending on tree size I start my backcut so it will end up 1-2" higher than the horizontal surface of my scarf. I cut around power lines, so if I screw up not only does the tree go the wrong way, but somebody could get Electrocuted. even smaller trees have the potential to leave you scarred for life, or dead.

To the OP, good post, I like the pics. The land here in maine isn't so flat either.

 

[GASoline71]

then, depending on tree size I start my backcut so it will end up 1-2" higher than the horizontal surface of my scarf.

Me too... I usually leave 2 inches no matter what.

Gary

 

[Industry]

Clearing lines we cut a lot of wood that is less than 5in. DBH, so 2in. in that situation is too far up. trees this size don't need that much hight. I love cutting big trees, but sadly in the business I'm in I don't get too many over 16" DBH.

 

[stihl 440]

cuts

I make my backcuts level with bottom of notch. I think it has better steering/guiding qualities. Don't get me wrong, i've tried the higher backcut, I didn't like it as much. Plus that is all GOL teaches. I follow pretty much all GOL felling techniques. I asked one of the GOL trainer's and he said if you make the backcut higher it makes the tree want to go over backwards. If you have never tried the backcut level with notch, you should, never hurts to try you might like it. I use it with the downcut then undercut for notching. I have cut trees the "other" way before, I didn't like the way the trees reacted while falling. I would reccomend to anybody this method of falling. I thaught that I couldn't learn anymore about falling, after I talked to this GOL trainer 4-5 years ago, I realized you can learn something new everyday. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Timberhauler]

Cutting level with the notch doesn't make no sense to me....The hinge left by cutting higher IS the guide.I have cut some smaller trees level,but the only way I can see being able to guide the tree when cutting level is leaving too much fiber pull.That's a no-no if you're cutting big timber,that would make the first log out of that tree worthless...Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[Cedarkerf]

I was taught to make my back-cut three to four inches above where the lower cut is,where he cut the wedge out.This keeps the tree from twisting,and keeps the butt from pushing back at you if the tree happened to hit something on the way down.Maybe I've been doing it the wrong way for twenty years...Second,that saw didn't seem that sharp.My 440 would have blown that tree in about half that time.

Kinda looked like someone not that experienced. A lot of saw wagging for such a small tree. Yes I wonderd about the chain sharpness. Seems like you have to watch to make sure you don't cut to far before you know it with the 44 and sharp chain,

 

[Timberhauler]

Kinda looked like someone not that experienced. A lot of saw wagging for such a small tree. Yes I wonderd about the chain sharpness. Seems like you have to watch to make sure you don't cut to far before you know it with the 44 and sharp chain,

Especially on a small dead pine like that one....I could have dropped a 28 inch hardwood with my 440 in the time that took

 

[FourMoCajuns]

Aw come on guys..... give the guy a break. He did do several things right. PPE first off. And then the tree fell in a safe direction. I agree a sharper chain, lower stump height, and a higher back cut would have been nice but he wasn't a pro.

 

[Timberhauler]

Aw come on guys..... give the guy a break. He did do several things right. PPE first off. And then the tree fell in a safe direction. I agree a sharper chain, lower stump height, and a higher back cut would have been nice but he wasn't a pro.

I agree...But it's my job to give folks a hard time,being the boss and all.