The senix 4 stroke.

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Whatever 5/10w-30 you have.

Mine ain't long for this world. A LOT of metal sparkles in the oil and this came out of the crank case when I changed the oil.
IMG_20211218_131833.jpgIMG_20211218_131855.jpgIMG_20211218_131826.jpg

Looks like the tip of a threaded boss from something that attached to the outside of the engine case. So far no leaks or unusual noises, but the oil is very sparkly.

I'm well beyond the warranty period, and don't have time to mess with it. Just going to run it until it dies.

Edit: two year warranty, and I bought it in March. May work out after all.
 
How long between oil changes?

My log splitter lasted 25 years but I changed the oil after every 8 run.
 
Whatever 5/10w-30 you have.

Mine ain't long for this world. A LOT of metal sparkles in the oil and this came out of the crank case when I changed the oil.
View attachment 949667View attachment 949668View attachment 949669

Looks like the tip of a threaded boss from something that attached to the outside of the engine case. So far no leaks or unusual noises, but the oil is very sparkly.


I'm well beyond the warranty period, and don't have time to mess with it. Just going to run it until it blows

Change the oil keep on trucking. Maybe buy another for parts.
 
Mine had a little glitter in the oil but no worse than what I've seen in new Honda trimmers after the first oil change. So far I've put close to 15+ hours on mine, the air filter isn't great on it but other than that I haven't had any issues that I didn't cause.
 
My glitter has been bad. Worst I've seen in an engine that's still running.

Break in oil was supposed to last 8 hours, guessing that's a good interval for changes beyond that too. I wouldn't run break in oil that long in anything, though.

Saws aren't a huge interest for me, just a tool for firewood. I have very limited time and lots to do, so I won't be tearing into this even when it dies. I wouldn't rebuild one of my Stihls either, just go buy another and keep cutting.
 
Whatever 5/10w-30 you have.

Mine ain't long for this world. A LOT of metal sparkles in the oil and this came out of the crank case when I changed the oil.
View attachment 949667View attachment 949668View attachment 949669

Looks like the tip of a threaded boss from something that attached to the outside of the engine case. So far no leaks or unusual noises, but the oil is very sparkly.

I'm well beyond the warranty period, and don't have time to mess with it. Just going to run it until it dies.

Edit: two year warranty, and I bought it in March. May work out after all.
Well that looks bad, I am still going to get one after Christmas, it's just to cool, got to try one. Probably won't use it much, Truck Saw! and an oddity for the collection.
 
Whatever 5/10w-30 you have.

Mine ain't long for this world. A LOT of metal sparkles in the oil and this came out of the crank case when I changed the oil.
View attachment 949667View attachment 949668View attachment 949669

Looks like the tip of a threaded boss from something that attached to the outside of the engine case. So far no leaks or unusual noises, but the oil is very sparkly.

I'm well beyond the warranty period, and don't have time to mess with it. Just going to run it until it dies.

Edit: two year warranty, and I bought it in March. May work out after all.
Looks like a valve lifter? Cam rubbing marks cloudy on the bottom? Pull the valve cover. Mine is in the mail I’m hanging in there I’m commited.
My glitter has been bad. Worst I've seen in an engine that's still running.

Break in oil was supposed to last 8 hours, guessing that's a good interval for changes beyond that too. I wouldn't run break in oil that long in anything, though.

Saws aren't a huge interest for me, just a tool for firewood. I have very limited time and lots to do, so I won't be tearing into this even when it dies. I wouldn't rebuild one of my Stihls either, just go buy another and keep cutting.
cylinder plating is coming off?
 
The four stroke's displacement classes in AMA pro racing were chosen to make the four strokes competitive out of the gate in the late '90s. Four stroke motorcycle tech has improved greatly since then. The 450s make much more power than 250 two strokes and the same is true of the 250 four strokes and 125 two strokes. The manufacturers who call the shots for the AMA felt that four strokes were the future due to expected emissions laws, even though Honda for one had low emissions two strokes that raced in Dakar and Baja, and then sold 250 dual purpose low emissions two strokes in the rest of the world. They wanted the fields to be full of the new four strokes not old two strokes.

Two strokes need roughly a square bore/stroke ratio for best flow from the ports. Too short a stroke and the ports are just too small. Look at the cylinder of a recent two stroke road race bike and you'll see a forest of transfers, seven or more. Where as four strokes with valves in the head don't need cylinder wall area for flow so the stroke can be super short. Saw two strokes have short strokes for packaging, and they are industrial engines with small ports so they don't need the wall area.
Two stroke tech just never advanced at the rate of 4 strokes. I'm old enough to remember the suzuki 3 cylinder 50cc road race bikes from 1967 that got the rules changed because they far outclassed the singles. They turned 18,000 rpm and made almost 30hp. Imagine if a 250 cc bike had been balanced to turn even 15,000 rpm, it would have been unrideable. I can remember the factory honda cr500 bikes at the washougal national back in the mid 80's were making 70hp. The suzuki 50 3cyl motor had like 25cc stroke by 50mm bores, I would have loved to have heard one in person. They must of screamed, but they also had like a 15 speed gearbox to keep on the pipe.
 
typically a 4 stroke saw needs to be a larger displacement to compete with a 2 stroke saw, similar to dirt bikes ata : 450f four stroke and 250 2 stroke in cc's
It needs to be lighter in weight, have more rpm to compete with 2t saws. But it appears to be slower but have more torque. Having more torque we can make the rakers deeper, hog out the gullet using full chisel chain. Skip tooth?
My old Husqvarna bikes eat four strokes.
 
It needs to be lighter in weight, have more rpm to compete with 2t saws. But it appears to be slower but have more torque. Having more torque we can make the rakers deeper, hog out the gullet using full chisel chain. Skip tooth?
My old Husqvarna bikes eat four strokes.

I'm running a 20 050 with full chisel and full comp on mine, to do that you'll need to change the clutch drum and take one of the little nubs on the oiler worm gear off.
 
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