The Traveling Leveraxe/Leveraxe 2 Thread

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Standing dead tamarack is now in the test pile.
Never been around that wood. What does it compare to? Hard or soft wood? Straight grain or stringy like elm? Just curious?
 
And here's some standing dead red oak for the test. Been dead and shed branches a few years now, was leaning uphill on a slope. Had to use them fancy cutting maneuvers and wedge action I done learned here on AS to 180 it downhill instead. Thought to bring the meter, 16% inside the bark, 20% half way to heartwood, 26% heartwood.

And two bonus pics, young cows always come over to see what I am doing...
...then GG being goofy with her mad drakehadi assault duck. Now I can't pick this guy up, he'll put the beak/bill to me...
 

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Never been around that wood. What does it compare to? Hard or soft wood? Straight grain or stringy like elm? Just curious?
This is a first for me too. Had to slog through a bog to get to it.

Has a BTU rating of 19.5 but supposed to burn hot as Hades as its full of sap.
 
Never been around that wood. What does it compare to? Hard or soft wood? Straight grain or stringy like elm? Just curious?

It's a pine that grows in the swamps around here and it burns HOT for whatever reason.

There are stories of guys that have straight loaded their boiler with it at night and have come out to a bath in the morning because it burned through the firebox.

I cut the mixture of some Tamarack with everything else.

It's primarily straight grain that does not want to separate. It is consistently the most difficult wood for me to hand split. It just does not to want to give up the ghost.
 
Cleared customs, is waiting for pickup by delivery company. Not sure what city it is in currently but hoping Minneapolis so I get it by Friday.....
 
One of the members suggested a format for review which I will post shortly. Also in the 4 way shootout I was going to post the following:

Type of wood:
Number of strikes required for each tool to completely split the round into uniform pieces (I have several samples from the same log/tree to keep things fair)
Winning tool:
Runner Up:
General comments:

I will repeat this for each of the species that I split to see if there is a consensus across several species. I have a hunch where each tool will shine but won't post my thoughts until the dust settles.

If there is anything else I should include please let me know.
 
Also here is the review format suggested from @Philbert which I think is very good:

- overall, subjective impressions
- appearance and quality of construction
- what type of axe/maul do they split with now that they are comparing it to
- what type(s) of wood did they try it on
- what it worked well on/what it did not
- what they liked/did not like
- would they buy it at the list price (or what price would they pay for it)
 
If you could..before put to wood, going with general impressions, examine the edge, give the angle if you could and rate it on sharpness as shipped. We should try to return to as-shipped state before transfer to next examiner.

Now judging by how it works, it *should* stay factory sharp pretty well, looks to be near impossible to hit dirt with it.

My original fiskars supersplitter was real dang sharp shipped. I have checked some later x-models in the stores, they are not as sharp. They are sharp, but not "match trick" sharp.
 
If you could..before put to wood, going with general impressions, examine the edge, give the angle if you could and rate it on sharpness as shipped. We should try to return to as-shipped state before transfer to next examiner.

Now judging by how it works, it *should* stay factory sharp pretty well, looks to be near impossible to hit dirt with it.

My original fiskars supersplitter was real dang sharp shipped. I have checked some later x-models in the stores, they are not as sharp. They are sharp, but not "match trick" sharp.
Can do. I believe this has a stainless head so should hold an edge pretty well as long as we keep it out of the dirt.
 
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