The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[heimannm]

Thanks for the contribution Glenn.

I don't use a 10-10 very often, but do use my 7-10 and PM55 regularly, yes they are heavier and louder than more modern saws, but my what grunt they have. If I am cutting in town or in a critical (visible) location I will resort to my Stihl 036 but for pure cutting enjoyment, the 10 Series McCulloch saws are hard to beat.

Mark

 

[mad murdock]

Great to hear the stories of resurrected great saws!! Keep them yeller fellers goin'!!

 

[dynodave]

The old Macs are interesting if not a bit of a challenge for us new guys. My PM 10-10 7-77 600016 U was OK, if not heavy, at 17lb 12.5oz and runs 16" bar 60dl of 3/8. Now the other day a friend drops off two donations to the CS museum. One of which is a 10-10Auto 600002 U 9-72 and I'm liking the 14lb 11oz a bit better. I got it running. It's missing the air cleaner element and the 1/2" wide steel strap from the handle to under the chain saw body.
The fly in the ointment is the "fixed rim" on the clutch...then the 16" hard nose bar is running a 61dl chain that is SHORTER than the 3/8 60dl on the newer 10-10. Well the mac branded 358 chain does not roll on the 3/8 sprocket nose pm10-10 bar. I find very little using search on the AS forum. See the 2 saws here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/gallery/albums/mcculloch-2.1602/
Any further history on the mac 358 chain? I might check acres site in the chain section.
fwiw I found my MAC IPL's here:
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch-Parts-Service-Repair-Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/

 

[heimannm]

dave,

PM me with your address and I can send an air filter and the brace for the rear handle.

Sounds like you have a loop of .354 pitch chain, .058 gauge; 61 DL is correct for the .354 chain on a 16" bar. You can either find a hard nose bar to use that chain and drum/sprocket, or replace the drum with a spur or spline that works with 3/8 chain, of course that will mean another 60 DL loop of 3/8 chain to match your .058 bar.

McCulloch and others made .354 pitch chain, I have rolls of .050 and .058 plus a large collection of odd and end in .354. I believe it is all chipper style cutters with the round teeth.

After boldly proclaiming that there were no .354 sprocket nose bars ever available I found a couple of .354 nose sprockets to fit the old Windsor bars, I put one together for a very authentic vintage SP80 with the three shoe clutch and a 24" sprocket nose .354 set up.

I also have a couple of loops of .315 pitch chain branded Sabre with the drums and fixed rim sprockets to go with them, I guess the .315 really never caught on.

Mark

 

[dynodave]

Mark
Thanks very much for the history lesson. Funny you say .058. I then had a duuuh moment and grabbed the mics and checked the drivers on both saws. I pretty much knew the PM10-10 was .050 cause it was a oregon 72 chain....feels sloppy in the oem mac bar so it seems to actually be a .058 bar. The PO must have not known it needed .058 or couldn't find one. This happened to me on another saw...husky 298XP that should have had .058 drivers and was only .050.
On the older 10-10A, I mentioned it was a hard nose, and I'll add it too is a oem mac bar. Measured the worn drivers and it shows .056-.057. So you're right on....

Since the macs will use the same chain I will probably get new .058 chain for them and a 3/8 rim drum for the 10-10A. The old 60dl .050 can be used on several of my Poulans and Homelites so it won't go to waste.

sending pm later today.

 

[leecopland]

Finally got off my butt and ordered some 3/32 square o-ring from McMaster Carr to try and seal the gas tank on my Pro Mac 10-10. I was not making much progress on sealing the old cork gasket in my gas tank. A little Hondabond finished off the job. No leaks or weeping. Now the 54cc trio are soon to be in action. Pro Mac 10-10, Homelite XL12 and 330. All 16" bars, 3/8" & 60dl. All were freebees. Here is my 10-10. Starts easy, runs good, LOUD

How do you rate the 330 compared to the other two?

 

[dynodave]

How do you rate the 330 compared to the other two?

Yesterday I ran the 330 and I do like it very much. The XL-12 is not going to be run until a tear down and check of the P&C. The attempted run of the PM10-10 made me stop and look to see if I put the chain on backward. It was one of the dullest chains I have ever seen and the rakers had never been trimmed...Changed the chain with one in much better shape and did a touch up filing. AHH- much better
I'm cutting 11' and 15" red oak cookies. To me the saws are about the same with the edge going to the 330 only because the better chain. I would be surprised with equal chains if the mac doesn't do a lot better. Compression shows 330 130psi and the mac 140psi.

The bigger oak would probably need the pioneer farmsaw 66cc 18" or the husky 272xp with 20". On a few sticks (24") I may drag out the husky 2100CD 32" to make sure its running OK.

As a follow up to the driver width...the PM10-10 bar IS marked 3/8 .050 It seems a bit loose with .050 drivers in it, but I'm no expert.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Anybody here ever put crank seals in a Pro Mac 55? I think I'm gonna have to do this a little later in the year, assuming they are still available.

 

[fossil]

Anybody here ever put crank seals in a Pro Mac 55? I think I'm gonna have to do this a little later in the year, assuming they are still available.

PTO side is 110260. Sub is SKF CR6119

FW side 67906, seems to be quite a few on e-bay.

 

[heimannm]

I replaced the seals in a 1-10 this week, for the PTO side it is really easier the split the clamshell case to remove the old seal. On the flywheel side you can drill a small hole and use a sheet metal or drywall screw and slide hammer to pop it out since they are actually in the bearing.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Thanks for the replies, looks like it'll be a while before I get to this project, I'm working on putting together a pressure/vac tester so I can give it a test before I tear it down. I have two or three other saws I'm needing to test also.

 

[MnSam]

I've acquired a decent 7-10 project. I've been keeping my eye out for one and this one fell into my lap last week. It is obviously needing some help, but has good bones. I'm needing a recoil and handle at least, and maybe an oiler. The oiler is in parts under the tank cover, not sure if it's all there. Maybe I'll look for a fairly complete 10-10 donor saw. If anyone has one to sell let me know.

 

[heimannm]

Sam - let me know if you have trouble finding any of the needed bits. I love my 7-10 so much I want others to enjoy them as well. I put new rings in mine a few years ago and it is one great saw.

Dave - sorry to be away so long, I have the sprocket and chain and the large old bar. I don't think I have ever seen a bar polished like that, I will find a classic saw worthy of it for display. Thanks again.

Mark

 

[MnSam]

Sam - let me know if you have trouble finding any of the needed bits. I love my 7-10 so much I want others to enjoy them as well. I put new rings in mine a few years ago and it is one great saw.

Dave - sorry to be away so long, I have the sprocket and chain and the large old bar. I don't think I have ever seen a bar polished like that, I will find a classic saw worthy of it for display. Thanks again.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I will keep that in mind. What size bar are you running on yours?

 

[MnSam]

Mark, I'm sure many wrap handles would work but what models share the correct wrap specific for this 7-10? Obviously it needs to be for a left hand start. Does it need to be a "pro mac" type?

 

[heimannm]

I run a 20" bar on mine most of the time, I like the fact that I can really lean on it and it will keep going. That's it in the second photo with a 16" bar from way back when...

Full wrap handles for the rigid 10 Series saws are very rare. I have one on this 5-10, not sure I have seen many others on those saws. Make sure the one you gets comes from a one of the tall rigid 10 Series, the handles from the early -10 models are very short and don't provide much clearance for your hand on top. I don't think the handles from the SP or PM models will work as they are designed for saws with the extra space between the tank and the engine for the anti-vibe mounts.





Mark

 

[heimannm]

This got me thinking so I went up in the attic to look at some handles.

As I thought, the handles for the SP models are taller and won't fit in the rigid saws.





What I didn't remember was the fact that the RH start model have flat/straight handle, the LH start saws have an offset bend to clear the starter.





Now that I think of it, I don't believe I have ever seen a full wrap handle on any LH start rigid 10 Series saws.

Mark

 

[MnSam]

What I didn't remember was the fact that the RH start model have flat/straight handle, the LH start saws have an offset bend to clear the starter.

Indeed. Here is a saw I've located to be a donor for my 7-10 project. I'll take the recoil, handle insert, possibly the oiler, and for now the bar/chain. I was planning on the wrap handle as well but am only 95% sure it will swap.

 

[2broke2ride]

If anyone cares, here's dads old 10-10 auto doing some cutting. Cut the whole 10'wheeler load with it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

I have another saw checked off my collectable list thanks to tylerjeep95, this 2-10PS arrived yesterday.



What does the PS stand for? Power Sharp, one of the early versions of the self sharpening chain mechanism.







To activate the mechanism you insert a screwdriver in the slot, release the sharpener to contact the chain, then lock it back again when you are finished. I am sure that the location of the mechanism rather doomed it to failure as that area of the saw will always be filled with sawdust and chips.

Thanks Tyler, I promise to post more photos once I get it cleaned up and the AutoSharp chain on it.

Mark