The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[MnSam]

Update on my 7-10 project. I received the donor 10-10 today so I swapped out the needed parts. Everything fit like a glove, and you can't tell what's original and what's swapped. It's looking much better now. I'll still need to carb kit, work out the oiler issues, and investigate the sub-par spark. My phone camera takes very washed out pictures indoors.

 

[heimannm]

10 Series with anti-vibe







Mark

 

[MnSam]

Someone has obviously been in here before ... The mounting screws for the points plate were siliconed in as well, god knows why. This was creating a poor circuit to ground resulting in my week spark. I chased the threads with a tap and the spark came back strong.

 

[heimannm]

There is supposed to be a Teflon "thrust washer", felt seal, and a second Teflon "thrust washer" on top of the points box and a felt seal between the points box and the frame of the saw. Very early 10 Series saws did not have these and I guess the points were contaminated with dust and oil often enough that the McCulloch engineers responded.

Mark

 

[MnSam]

Is there supposed to be a felt seal sandwiched between the teflon washers? I have two teflon washers on top and a felt seal under the points box.

 

[2broke2ride]

Looking for a bucking spike for an early 10-10A, bought one off eBay for a pro Mac 10-10 thinking it would be the same....... Wrong, but alt least it for my timber bear so no big loss. Let me know what you guys got.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

MnSam - Yes, there is supposed to be a felt seal between the two Teflon thrust washers. Certainly the will run without it but if you use the saw a lot there is a chance for sawdust to get to the points eventually.

2broke - you will find the solution over with the pigz

Mark

 

[raumati01]

Just joined this club, picked up a 10-10s , love the sound it makes. Didn't really need it but the super pro 700 was looking lonely.

 

[dynodave]

I had been thinking about my 3 mac's all having 16" bars. Two 54cc 10-10 and since the 7-10A is 70cc I was contemplating a longer bar for it. I had been looking and saw 24" and 28" bars. But since I have other saws that can do long cuts husky 272xp and 2100CD have 20", 24" and 32" I did not feel like going that long. also to share chains these husky are all .058 drivers and had less luck finding .058 driver mac bars. So I happened on this GB bar that is solid, not spot welded, .050 and shares 70dl chains with my poulan 3800 and homelite 330's . What's not to like for $20 +$13 s&h? It is NOS.. but an obsolete power tech model...MA20-50SG
I fit it on last night and I like it's feel. I realized I have both 72LGX (chisel) and a 72DP(semi chisel) chains. Even with this longer bar and chain it is still over 2 pounds lighter than the Pro Mac 10-10.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I was told this is the place to ask my questions. I have a 10-10 with a model number of 60001U. Seams like one of the first 10-10's made. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned the points and it fires right up. I have a few questions and needs.
It has what I think is the original bar and chain on it. It is a 3/8 .058 Gauge 61 link chain. What would be a good bar and chain for this saw?
The oiler button broke
I lost the wire going from the choke button to the carb,
I believe this to not be an auto oiler?
One of the springs that pulls the dogs for the starter is gone.
Anyone be able to help me find these paot.

Anyone have these parts. Also when I turned it up on it's side ti will leak oil out of the left side, Is this normal?
Any good suggestions for a good bar and chain to fit this saw?

Thank You

 

[2broke2ride]

I was told this is the place to ask my questions. I have a 10-10 with a model number of 60001U. Seams like one of the first 10-10's made. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned the points and it fires right up. I have a few questions and needs.
It has what I think is the original bar and chain on it. It is a 3/8 .058 Gauge 61 link chain. What would be a good bar and chain for this saw?
The oiler button broke
I lost the wire going from the choke button to the carb,
I believe this to not be an auto oiler?
One of the springs that pulls the dogs for the starter is gone.
Anyone be able to help me find these paot.

Anyone have these parts. Also when I turned it up on it's side ti will leak oil out of the left side, Is this normal?
Any good suggestions for a good bar and chain to fit this saw?

Thank You

I replied to your other thread

 

[heimannm]

61 DL on a 16" bar means it is McCulloch .354 pitch chain, not 3/8". You will need to get a new sprocket and 60 DL 3/8 chain for that one if the chain needs to be replaced.

Put up a photo of the broke oiler button I may have one that would work, also a photo with the choke button and carburetor so we know what you are looking for.

I should have something that will work for the starter pawl spring, send a PM if you are still looking.

There were some early 10-10 models without the automatic oil pump but they can be refit very easily with the pump if you want the auto oil feature.

The early saws had a small hole in the oil tank for a breather, usually has a cotter pin in it to partially plug the opening. Try putting a piece of felt under the cotter pin, it will still leak but not so fast.


Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark, I pasted your reply in the Mac 1010 thread. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Here is some pic of the saw. I am planning to replace the bar and chain. So I also need to change the sprocket? Would you know what part no.?
I was looking at this setup for a chain and bar. Guess this won't work.
OREGON 72LPX066G 66 Drive Link Super 70 Chisel Chain, 3/8-Inch
Oregon 180PXDD176 .050" Gauge 3/8" Pitch 18" Pro-Am Bar

What setup would you recommend? Want a 18 inch bar.
Ron has me fixed up with the starter pawl spring,Thank You!!! All I need now is the linkage from the choke lever to the carb. I made one but it is a little short as you can see in the picture.
I would like to know a little more about putting a auto oiler on it. Not really fond of a manual oiler. Will it just fit into the tank? I have not opened up the oil tank yet but pretty sure it is not a auto oiler.

Thanks
Brian

You can go to this post an see the pics
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mac-10-10.296234/

 

[rwoods]

Here is some pic of the saw. I am planning to replace the bar and chain. So I also need to change the sprocket? Would you know what part no.?
I was looking at this setup for a chain and bar. Guess this won't work.
OREGON 72LPX066G 66 Drive Link Super 70 Chisel Chain, 3/8-Inch
Oregon 180PXDD176 .050" Gauge 3/8" Pitch 18" Pro-Am Bar

What setup would you recommend? Want a 18 inch bar.
Ron has me fixed up with the starter pawl spring,Thank You!!! All I need now is the linkage from the choke lever to the carb. I made one but it is a little short as you can see in the picture.
I would like to know a little more about putting a auto oiler on it. Not really fond of a manual oiler. Will it just fit into the tank? I have not opened up the oil tank yet but pretty sure it is not a auto oiler.

Thanks
Brian

You can go to this post an see the pics
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mac-10-10.296234/

Brian, if your clutch uses a replaceable rim sprocket, you should be able to get a standard 3/8 7 tooth sprocket locally - if not, I'll give you one. If your drum has the spur gear instead of the replaceable sprocket then the part number for the drum and .375 sprocket is 86946 per the IPL I posted for you in your 1010 thread. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Mark will have to tell you about the auto oiler retrofit - from the IPL there appears to be some check valve plate assembly that you might need in addition to the oiler. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Thanks Ron:
It looks like a replaceable sprocket but it also looks like it is made onto the clutch bell. I don't have it apart, this is from just looking back in there and I am getting old and cannot see as well as I used to. It does not look like the regular spur gear It looks like the replaceable type. I have not ever worked with one of these. Are they a tight fit, pressed on or what?. I bet once I get it apart it will be a replaceable one, just stuck from setting because I tried to move it with a screwdriver and it would not budge. But also it has set for 30+ years. I was going to empty the oil tank and take it apart to see if it had a auto oilier pump in it but a friend called and he was trying to jump his Harley off and caught it on fire and I spent the rest of the afternoon getting it to my shop and trying to straighten out the burnt wiring. Now though I think it maybe a auto oilier because I just went out to my garage and stuck a screwdriver back into the tank and I think I feel the oil pump. I am hoping this is the case and it is just gummed up from setting for so many years and just needs a good cleaning to get back working. I will take it apart tomorrow. Maybe put some kerosene in the tank, let it set for a few hours and then run it for a bit and see if that will clean it out.

Mark, I don't think the oil leak I was talking about is from the breather hole, it is coming right out of the oilier port at the blade. Who knows what kind of oil was in that oil tank or how old it is. It just may have enough gunk in it to not let a check valve close fully and that is letting it leak out when turned on it's side. Either way I will need to clean everything out and maybe rebuild things. From the parts list the manual oilier looks very simple and really just has an "O" ring in there. Maybe able to replace it and get it to work.
By the way the muffler looks like it is the reed type muffler. The reed and it's stopper are missing. Will this hurt it's performance? Does it need to be replaced? If so would you have one?
Best picture I have of it right now but you can see the exhust blowing out of the place the reed suppose to go and it has blackened the cylinder.
Also the part number on the bar is 63541 VG

Brian

 

[rwoods]

Thanks Ron:
It looks like a replaceable sprocket but it also looks like it is made onto the clutch bell. I don't have it apart, this is from just looking back in there and I am getting old and cannot see as well as I used to. It does not look like the regular spur gear It looks like the replaceable type. I have not ever worked with one of these. Are they a tight fit, pressed on or what?. I bet once I get it apart it will be a replaceable one, just stuck from setting because I tried to move it with a screwdriver and it would not budge. But also it has set for 30+ years. I was going to empty the oil tank and take it apart to see if it had a auto oilier pump in it but a friend called and he was trying to jump his Harley off and caught it on fire and I spent the rest of the afternoon getting it to my shop and trying to straighten out the burnt wiring. Now though I think it maybe a auto oilier because I just went out to my garage and stuck a screwdriver back into the tank and I think I feel the oil pump. I am hoping this is the case and it is just gummed up from setting for so many years and just needs a good cleaning to get back working. I will take it apart tomorrow. Maybe put some kerosene in the tank, let it set for a few hours and then run it for a bit and see if that will clean it out.

Mark, I don't think the oil leak I was talking about is from the breather hole, it is coming right out of the oilier port at the blade. Who knows what kind of oil was in that oil tank or how old it is. It just may have enough gunk in it to not let a check valve close fully and that is letting it leak out when turned on it's side. Either way I will need to clean everything out and maybe rebuild things. From the parts list the manual oilier looks very simple and really just has an "O" ring in there. Maybe able to replace it and get it to work.
By the way the muffler looks like it is the reed type muffler. The reed and it's stopper are missing. Will this hurt it's performance? Does it need to be replaced? If so would you have one?
Best picture I have of it right now but you can see the exhust blowing out of the place the reed suppose to go and it has blackened the cylinder.
Also the part number on the bar is 63541 VG

Brian

Brian,

The IPL shows a key for the clutch. Newer saws are slip fit and I bet your will work that way as well but I don't know. Newer saws are also left hand thread on the clutch side; yours I don't know. I can't tell from the IPL but some ten series have a hole in the bottom of the flywheel cover to insert a rod to lock the flywheel so you can remove the clutch nut.

As to the muffler the IPL show a reed model and a reedless model. Both have covers that help direct the exhaust away from the block. I don't think the reeds make any performance difference but Mark will likely know for sure. USFS developed rules regarding spark screens and other things to prevent fires I believe the spark screens pretty much ended the use of exhaust reeds on MACs.

Mark,

If you are tuning in, do you know the proper o-ring size for the oiler piston? I torn into my PM800 yesterday and it appears that the replacement o-ring I used isn't stout enough to hold the piston on with the modern heavy and sticky oils. I replaced the original some years ago as it had swollen up and would no longer hold the piston on either. I can't remember where I got the replacement from but I believe I just grabbed the closest in size from Tractor Supply or NAPA. I can't match its dimensions to the standard sizes listed on Fastenal's website.

Thanks as always,

Ron

PS to Brian: I am glad you found this thread. The actual thread I referred you to is the McCulloch thread found in the "sticky" section of the chainsaw forum located at the top of the CS forum page.

 

[Brian Thacker]

Ron: I have a bunch of O rings if you want to go threw them and find what you need. Many are vinton O rings and they last a long time and the new fuels and oils do not swell them like rubber.
Well I finally got time to take the oil tank cover off. I am attaching pictures to see if anyone can tell me if it is a auto oilier. I think this is a oil pump in there. Also I found a screw in the oil tank that went from the oil tank up into the fuel tank. The spacer is missing but I can use a few washers and get what I want. The leak I thought I had was this screw missing. I ran kerosene from my parts washer to clean out the gunk from the manual oil pump but don't think the auto (if that's a oil pump) is working. I will have to tare it down and see what is not working.
My clutch does have a left hand thread and slip fit, no key. I am going to have to get the whole clutch bell. It is all made together.
You see the threaded hole to the right of the piece sticking down in first picture? What is that threaded hole for? Should it have a screw in it? What does it do?

 

[rwoods]

Brian,

Too late in the evening for me to go digging but I may have a drum that will fit.

Unless it is some early version, you do not have an auto oiler as the old metal ones and new plastic ones are the same size and take up much more of the tank.

I am not sure which hole you are asking about. The threaded hole in the back is for the long screw that holds the tank cover on. The hole in the top is the hole for the tank spacer (shown better in your third picture).

I am a poor substitute for Mark H. He must be tied up with work. There were many who check the McCulloch sticky thread that are much more knowledgeable than me.

Are you up for a little cutting Saturday morning? I am told Laughlin Healthcare has two very large tops that they want us to cut as soon as possible. I will check it out tomorrow.

Ron