The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[heimannm]

Looks like this. They are getting hard to find affordable in usable condition. View attachment 1116802

Just FWIW, that style clutch cover will clear a full wrap handle bar without any modifications.



The right had start saws will also clear the full wrap handle bar.



There is another version of the clutch cover for the LH start saws (on the right below) that is modeled after the RH start covers and those will clear the full wrap handle bar as well.



The later style short covers, and the short brake style covers require some extensive modifications to clear the full wrap handle bar.





Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

consider making a tool to press the pin out and back in again.

Or just buy one of these from Duke and don't look back. Pays for itself the first time you use it just in time saved if nothing else -- like screwing up a piston trying to redneck the pin or bearings out.



https://www.sawsalvage.co/products/...r-removal-tool?_pos=1&_psq=wrist&_ss=e&_v=1.0

 

[piglosi]

On the homelites and huskies I alway supported the rod and tapped them out. Mcculloch a different animal I see.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I also use a small Arbor press.

 

[mogulmasher]

I've only fully rebuilt one Mac, a sp81, and I was able to gently tap pin out. Maybe I got lucky.

On reinstall I throw pin in deep freezer for a couple hours, then just slightly warm piston with a propane torch...so I can still handle with a glove on no problem. Pin slips right in by hand.

 

[Redbarn19]

Anyone know what size bar/chain would be optimal on a Mac 10-10 auto? I would like to replace the current 3/8 050 20”(?) bar/chain on it, however the chain that I pulled off is 71 Drive links, which I can’t seem to find anywhere. I could make my own chain, but I would also like to replace the bar, which I can’t necessarily make. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Woodslasher]

I have a small arbor press so that's how I do it. You could do the same thing in a large vise I suppose. I have never tried to press one out with a punch but I expect it would be a very tough job that way. If you don't have a press or large enough vise, consider making a tool to press the pin out and back in again.

View attachment 1119396

Mark

I used wood and a vice on my CP125, it was doable but not fun or quick.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Anyone know what size bar/chain would be optimal on a Mac 10-10 auto? I would like to replace the current 3/8 050 20”(?) bar/chain on it, however the chain that I pulled off is 71 Drive links, which I can’t seem to find anywhere. I could make my own chain, but I would also like to replace the bar, which I can’t necessarily make. Any help would be appreciated.

Modify a K095 of whatever size suits your needs.

​

 

[heimannm]

Redbarn - Check you chain very carefully, I suspect you will find "370" stamped on the drive links indicating the chain is .354 pitch, .050 gauge. That was very common for McCulloch 10 Series models with a 20" hardnose bar. It might actually be .058 gauge that is worn as the 20" .058 bars seemed to have been more prevalent.

If you change the bar and chain, you will most likely need to change the drum/sprocket as well. No problem as there are many drum available for the 10/600 Series saws with either spur sprockets or the spline for rim type sprockets.

Quite honestly, a 16 or 18" bar on a stock 10-10 is quite adequate for the hardwood I cut. The standard mount for the 10 Series is Oregon D-176 but as Poge has suggested, there are many bar mounts that can be made to work.

Mark

 

[Redbarn19]

Redbarn - Check you chain very carefully, I suspect you will find "370" stamped on the drive links indicating the chain is .354 pitch, .050 gauge. That was very common for McCulloch 10 Series models with a 20" hardnose bar. It might actually be .058 gauge that is worn as the 20" .058 bars seemed to have been more prevalent.

If you change the bar and chain, you will most likely need to change the drum/sprocket as well. No problem as there are many drum available for the 10/600 Series saws with either spur sprockets or the spline for rim type sprockets.

Quite honestly, a 16 or 18" bar on a stock 10-10 is quite adequate for the hardwood I cut. The standard mount for the 10 Series is Oregon D-176 but as Poge has suggested, there are many bar mounts that can be made to work.

Mark

Not sure, I was reading off the numbers on the bar nose, pitch was stamped as .375 (3/8), gauge was stamped as .050. Drive link stamp is A1. Counted the drive links manually, came up with 71. Would a 70 or 72 DL 3/8 050 chain/bar combo work with the current sprocket, or should it be changed? Current drum/sprocket style is rim.

 

[Redbarn19]

Not sure, I was reading off the numbers on the bar nose, pitch was stamped as .375 (3/8), gauge was stamped as .050. Drive link stamp is A1. Counted the drive links manually, came up with 71. Would a 70 or 72 DL 3/8 050 chain/bar combo work with the current sprocket, or should it be changed? Current drum/sprocket style is rim.

if it comes down to it, I can make a chain, I have the tools. I just would prefer to change the bar as well.

 

[heimannm]

A1 is 3/8 .050.

With a normal bar (D-176) McCulloch saws will use 70 DL for a 20" bar. If you have a spline type drum you can use an 8T sprocket and the 71 DL chain, but for a 7T sprocket you will need to run 70 DL. You might be able to find some other bar mount that would allow you to run the 72 DL chain but I've never encountered anything like that.

Mark

 

[Redbarn19]

A1 is 3/8 .050.

With a normal bar (D-176) McCulloch saws will use 70 DL for a 20" bar. If you have a spline type drum you can use an 8T sprocket and the 71 DL chain, but for a 7T sprocket you will need to run 70 DL. You might be able to find some other bar mount that would allow you to run the 72 DL chain but I've never encountered anything like that.

Mark

Ok cool thanks. I tried to remove the clutch drum but it is incredibly stuck. I got the nut off after some fighting, but the drum/clutch will not budge. Should I just hit it with a lubricant or do something else? It probably hasn’t been removed since new so I kind of expected it.

I also noticed you sold parts: do you have a fuel cap and a 7T sprocket, and about how much would that run? The tank leaks out the cap, which is broken, and gaskets won’t fix it. If you need a serial number I can provide one.

 

[piglosi]

Anyone know what size bar/chain would be optimal on a Mac 10-10 auto? I would like to replace the current 3/8 050 20”(?) bar/chain on it, however the chain that I pulled off is 71 Drive links, which I can’t seem to find anywhere. I could make my own chain, but I would also like to replace the bar, which I can’t necessarily make. Any help would be appreciated.

I run a 24 with 81 link full chisel skip chain
20” should be 70 link.

 

[Redbarn19]

I run a 24 with 81 link full chisel skip chain
20” should be 70 link.

Yes, apparently mine has a different sprocket on it, making it run a nonstandard chain size. Does the 24 run ok? I’m only cutting softwood with it, and not that often because I have bigger saws.

 

[mogulmasher]

You'll be fine running a 24" on there in softwood.

 

[Redbarn19]

You'll be fine running a 24" on there in softwood.

Ok cool thanks. I haven’t really used it too much other than some testing, adjusting, and some corn stalk cutting, so I wasn’t sure on power and whatnot. I’m not used to the saws this vintage, I primarily use a Husky 262 and a Stihl 261C and I just got this mcculloch, so I haven’t really felt it out per say.

 

[mogulmasher]

It won't have the rpm the 262 and 261c have, but 10-10 has more torque and grunt. I often run full chisel chain and 20" bar on a 10-10 and even fully buried in hardwood it keeps chugging along. So 24" in softwood will be no problem, you just won't win any races.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]