Actually the best time to get wooed dry is during the freezing weather. We get the humidity down to less than 20% pretty often when it is cold. Not sure how much the fan helps, but put some out near some stacked rows anyways. It took only two weeks to get some softwood rows burnable. Thanks
This is Why I Hate Oak
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Actually the best time to get wooed dry is during the freezing weather. We get the humidity down to less than 20% pretty often when it is cold. Not sure how much the fan helps, but put some out near some stacked rows anyways. It took only two weeks to get some softwood rows burnable. Thanks
Cody
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I'm sick of these winter storms the last few years, all of them blowing out of the east or northeast. That's the only side we're open on so it gets pretty interesting anymore. Need to come up with a windbreak, a tall one...fast.
I would think since the moisture in the wood is frozen it can't wick out and evaporate.
I can put a block of ice in the freezer and it will stay the same size even though the frost free air flow is moving air around inside the freezer.
Except that the air is not renewed. Water evaporates from ice form just fine (sublimate).
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Seems like if it's frost free, it has to vent some of that moisture out of the freezer or the frost free feature wouldn't work.
Boy do I understand that, here on the lower slope of the Cascade Range, we have had 80-90+% RH for Months on end, and the associated RAIN
What is this OAK, of which you all speak?
I wood love to see more hardwoods, they are pretty scarce around here, mostly Douglas Fir, Hemlock which may be different than what some think of, ours is a Conifer (Tsuga) and Spruce. There is a little hardwood mixed in here and there, but the Forest Circus doesn't allow us to Fall, just cut blow down, and if you aren't standing there with a running saw in hand when any hardwood does hit the ground, it will be gone before you know it was even there. Tamarack and Alder are our "Prime" firewoods, but not as much of that around as we would like. I don't go out of my way for it, but last winter, we had a Big 30+" Cottonwood go down, less than 2 blocks from the house, right next to the street. we put out some Traffic Triangles and set up the trailer and splitter right next to the tree. Split it fairly small and chimney stack it, and after a summer of low RH, and 90+ degree weather it was decent for early season wood, and saved the better wood for when it was colder. Plus, that doesn't go against the 5 cords that we can get Forest Circus permits for from the National Forest, and, if we didn't take it the HOA would have had to PAY to have it disposed of, which guess who pays for that in the end, may as well make BTU's out of it, instead of Bills.
Doug
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Wow, I knew oak takes a while to dry but not like that... The northern red oak I burn seems to be ready in about two seasons in full sun and wind, straight stacks. I do tend to split mine a little thin anyway...
D
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I am burning red oak I cut the first week of last July (blow down top). But pre epa stove is pretty tolerant. Wasn't planning to use it till fall but it got cold again!
mijdirtyjeep
ArboristSite Operative
My EPA insert is the same with oak. One year seasoned and it will burn, but coal up pretty fast. Two year seasoned is better, but seems to really take three years cut, split and stacked before it really burns nice.
What I have found was trying to cut it into no more than 3” thick pieces and slice it with the SS Split so it looks like lumber. This allows me to fill the rectangle fire box fuller than cutting it into pie shaped pieces. Plus it stacks sooo much easier!
What I have found was trying to cut it into no more than 3” thick pieces and slice it with the SS Split so it looks like lumber. This allows me to fill the rectangle fire box fuller than cutting it into pie shaped pieces. Plus it stacks sooo much easier!
I do the same thing, cut it small so it will pack tight. I've gotten into the argument that big splits burn longer. Yes, one big piece will burn longer than one little piece. But, If I can only fit 30 pounds of big splits through the door, and I can fit 50 pounds of little splits through the door, the little ones burn longer. Then they say make two piles, one big and one little to fill the spaces. UH, No.
With all this talk of kids yakking on the bus and in the halls, I just puked on my keyboard, Joe.
bear1998
ArboristSite Operative
Go get some damn sawdust..lol
Your right on the money for figuring out the poor stove performance. New Epa tube stove/cat stove = dry wood. 6" insulated liner. One year seasoned Oak is killing the results I would wager. Everyone has there opinion but my split/stacked Oak is still off the chart/M.M. after 2 years. I have some live cut Pin Oak that has been CSS 3 years that is not ready<20%.
Hmmm, I'd a guessed the memorable "magic" smell may have been from something else in the '70's
I just stacked a bunch of green oak up on racks so I could move it to the woodstove next year... Now I need to see if the racks rot faster than the the wood seasons. I have enough wood for 2 years but its nearly all green oak... Should be fun trying to find dry wood.
The hustle continues I guess.
The hustle continues I guess.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think oak dries bad at all. I refill my racks for sale every year and by fall fresh splits will be hitting 20% on the inside. Smaller splits, exposure to wind & sun, and splits that are more like boards than wedges.
Arm wood in the stacks that is not split will take many years to dry.
This wood is less than 2 months old right now, drying was in the Winter months while frozen.
Arm wood in the stacks that is not split will take many years to dry.
This wood is less than 2 months old right now, drying was in the Winter months while frozen.
I'm with you there on the smell when splitting it. Can't stand it. Red oak is the same.I know, I know...oak burns hot, it's dense, it has HUGE BTU's... but I HATE oak when I'm trying to sell it. I offer exhibit A and B below. This is one year old pin oak that has been split and stacked in a single file rank since last April. The ends are checked and the bark has fallen off. It looks awesome! The outside reading is 16% moisture content. I take my handy Fiskars and split this nice log piece in half to find 53% mc inside! Ugh...
TBH the mc inside was pegging my moisture meter as it read "OL" (overload) on multiple areas of my fresh split.
To sell oak this stuff has to take up valuable space in my yard for 2 years if I'm going to get it down to 20% mc. I could have sold 3X the amount of maple, ash, cherry for the same time I have dealt with this oak. I think for the time I have to sit on oak more than ruins my ROI given any premium I can charge for it.
Another reason I hate oak is I honestly can't stand the odor when I'm cutting it. It reminds me of elementary school when some kid would barf in the hallway and the janitor would come by and spray that god awful aerosol can on it. Ugh...
There... I got that out of my system. Happy cutting everyone!
View attachment 646211 View attachment 646212
You guys are awesome when selling firewood I guess.
Around here they cut it in Winter, drag it out in logs, buck and split in Spring and sell in the Fall. And that's supposed to be 'seasoned'.
None of the wood sellers around here, big or small, sell real seasoned firewood but they all demand seasoned prices. Oak goes for $300-$350 as cord too.
Oak is good stuff but does take a long time to season. I found some Sugar maple and Elm like that too.
You split a bit smaller and flatter that most do, as we discussed before.I don't think oak dries bad at all. I refill my racks for sale every year and by fall fresh splits will be hitting 20% on the inside. Smaller splits, exposure to wind & sun, and splits that are more like boards than wedges.
Arm wood in the stacks that is not split will take many years to dry.
This wood is less than 2 months old right now, drying was in the Winter months while frozen.
But you must be a lot drier there than here I too because I've always needed more than one year to season Oak.
Love that pic.....
Boy do I understand that, here on the lower slope of the Cascade Range, we have had 80-90+% RH for Months on end, and the associated RAIN
What is this OAK, of which you all speak?
Here in Southern California we have plenty of Oak, but it is difficult to get it to customers. I grew up in SE Washing so do know what kind of wood is available there. Also spent a considerable time being employed by the USDA working for the Forest Circus. Years ago I would haul Lodge Pole farther inland because we had so much off it. If I understand correctly working with the Circus is difficult. I still work with the USDA and have been able to manage to accomplish a good relationship, but have been blessed with some great people. At any time when people change their positions my progress could be stopped. At this moment have been clearing a small ranch of about 60 dead Oak trees that have been dead for several years. Since this is on private land it has been a breeze as far as permits and documentation. However we did not have a winter this year so supply and demand has been screwy. During warmer months it takes about three months for Oak to season well. However it is rare that I have to deal with green Oak. No matter how hard I work getting a cord of Oak to a customer takes 10 to 16 hours, but we get top dollar for Oak. Thanks
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well I don't know about drier. It certainly isn't warmer. We had 8" of snow 2 days ago and it supposed to snow again tonight. Even when it's below freezing it will dry. This spot gets lots of sun and wind.
Here is what I call seasoned, this is the end of October so this has been sitting about 9-12 months and I think it is ready for sale.
WPanhandler
ArboristSite Operative
To honestly dry it around here. in Arkansas, it take 2 years for oak. it will burn ok after one year, but once the inside of the wood get truly hot, it still steams pretty good. I prefer 5 years in a shed myself. once that much time has past it will almost light with a wooden match.
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