Timber Bear not starting

[forgetaboudit]

maybe just flooded ?

I let it sit overnight with the plug out and didn't make a difference

 

[Bubster]

.010 would be a good starting point for air gap(between coil and flywheel).If you dont have feeler gauges,just use your drivers license or a credit card to set the gap.It is sounding more like a weak coil all the time.Piece of fine sandpaper to the flywheel magnets and the coil contact could also help.

 

[forgetaboudit]

.010 would be a good starting point for air gap(between coil and flywheel).If you dont have feeler gauges,just use your drivers license or a credit card to set the gap.It is sounding more like a weak coil all the time.Piece of fine sandpaper to the flywheel magnets and the coil contact could also help.

Gap looked to be about that. I'll throw a feeler in there later.
I'll try the sandpaper and also look what a coil costs.
I appreciate the help

 

[Bubster]

Gap looked to be about that. I'll throw a feeler in there later.
I'll try the sandpaper and also look what a coil costs.
I appreciate the help

One more thing you might check while the starter housing is off,make sure the flywheel nut is tight.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I'll look into all that. What's the gap supposed to be?

Cheap business card will be fine or .018

 

[ammoaddict]

Cheap business card will be fine or .018

That's all I've ever used on the few I have set.

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[Wood Doctor]

I replaced the toggle (ignition) switch on my Mac 610 years ago when I ran into a similar problem. That solved it.

Cheap business card will be fine or .018

Don't you mean 0.0108"? That's what I use.

 

[forgetaboudit]

Gap is right on specs. Just looked up a new coil, and what I've found is $50+! Thats pretty wild to see if its the issue. I'll have to think it over if its worth it...

 

[ammoaddict]

Gap is right on specs. Just looked up a new coil, and what I've found is $50+! Thats pretty wild to see if its the issue. I'll have to think it over if its worth it...

Do you think the coil on the donor saw is bad too?

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[forgetaboudit]

Do you think the coil on the donor saw is bad too?

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I would imagine as it has the same symptoms. Odd how they both have the same issues... But mixed gas in the cylinder of the donor and she wont fire either.

 

[ammoaddict]

I would imagine as it has the same symptoms. Odd how they both have the same issues... But mixed gas in the cylinder of the donor and she wont fire either.

It is odd. I would have to swap them just to be sure.

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[forgetaboudit]

Ill run out and give it a go

It is odd. I would have to swap them just to be sure.

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.

 

[heimannm]

140 is mediocre for the 600 Series saws but certainly should let the saw run. A really good one will be 180-200 PSI.

The (tan) coils are pretty reliable, but the wire can develop a break or sometimes just the connector in the boot fails to make a good contact. Pull the boot off and confirm that the connector is firmly in contact with the spark plug wire.

On the 600 Series saws there is always a chance for a bit of bar oil to leak past the diaphragm and get into the crankcase and could foul the spark plug. Pour some mixed fuel down the carburetor and then pull it over 10-12 times with the spark plug out to try and clear out the crankcase and the cylinder.

Most electronic ignition coils won't fire until the engine reaches a certain RPM so what you are seeing might just be the electronics at work. Setting the coil just a bit closer (0.006-0.008") can help create a better spark if that is the issue.

Mark

 

[Jasonrkba]

Lets try something. Pull the plug, set it so that the bar is straight up. Let it set for a day. Set the low jet at one turn out and the high at one and 1/8. Put it all together and try again.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Mark I was under the impression the Q port made compression test read lower than what it may actually be?

 

[forgetaboudit]

Lets try something. Pull the plug, set it so that the bar is straight up. Let it set for a day. Set the low jet at one turn out and the high at one and 1/8. Put it all together and try again.

I'll give that a try. I have to drain the gas, as the fuel line entering the tank doesn't seal so it'll leak. (She needs a little TLC lol)

140 is mediocre for the 600 Series saws but certainly should let the saw run. A really good one will be 180-200 PSI.

The (tan) coils are pretty reliable, but the wire can develop a break or sometimes just the connector in the boot fails to make a good contact. Pull the boot off and confirm that the connector is firmly in contact with the spark plug wire.

On the 600 Series saws there is always a chance for a bit of bar oil to leak past the diaphragm and get into the crankcase and could foul the spark plug. Pour some mixed fuel down the carburetor and then pull it over 10-12 times with the spark plug out to try and clear out the crankcase and the cylinder.

Most electronic ignition coils won't fire until the engine reaches a certain RPM so what you are seeing might just be the electronics at work. Setting the coil just a bit closer (0.006-0.008") can help create a better spark if that is the issue.

Mark

I'll set the coil closer and try the above solution. Will report findings in the morning

 

[forgetaboudit]

Went and got a spark tester.
This is as far apart as I can get it before the spark is unreliable. About an 1/8"

Set the jets as described above, put fresh mixed gas in, and she won't start after 30+ pulls.

Any other ideas? Spark too weak?

 

[ammoaddict]

Went and got a spark tester.
This is as far apart as I can get it before the spark is unreliable. About an 1/8"
View attachment 930282
Set the jets as described above, put fresh mixed gas in, and she won't start after 30+ pulls.

Any other ideas? Spark too weak?

Same results with both coils?

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[forgetaboudit]

Same results with both coils?

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That's just the coil from the donor saw that I put in the mine. I can hook the original one up to the donor and test it

 

[forgetaboudit]

Same results with both coils?

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Same results.