Timber Bear not starting

[forgetaboudit]

As I recall that lever should be just flush with the level of the mounting surface, any higher they will flood

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It is flush with the surface

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have read many threads on this forum where men have tried rebuilding carbs without success. Usually the saw eventually runs with a new carb, assuming it has adequate compression, a good spark, good timing, unblocked exhaust, and fuel making it to the plug.

 

[Jasonrkba]

If you installed the diaphragm before the gasket, it will act like you are describing.

 

[forgetaboudit]

I have read many threads on this forum where men have tried rebuilding carbs without success. Usually the saw eventually runs with a new carb, assuming it has adequate compression, a good spark, good timing, unblocked exhaust, and fuel making it to the plug.

Hopefully the rebuild kit resolves the issue.

If you installed the diaphragm before the gasket, it will act like you are describing.

I referenced the parts blowup and everything seemed to be where it should be.

 

[heimannm]

You need to pressure test the carburetor to make sure the needle is holding pressure. If not, it will flood.

Mark

 

[ammoaddict]

You need to pressure test the carburetor to make sure the needle is holding pressure. If not, it will flood.

Mark

Is that what people are talking about when they say pop off pressure? How much pressure should it hold, dependant on carb model maybe?

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[heimannm]

Yes that is what they are referring to but I rarely pump them up until they actually "pop off". They should hold pressure, I like to test them up to 9 or 10 PSI and make sure they maintain that. If they leak a bit I like to try putting a bit of fuel in the line and checking again as often just wetting the needle will allow it to seal.

I will add that expert builders can spend a lot of time researching the ideal "pop off" pressure for high performance saws, kart engines, RC planes and such. Many will have a wide range of metering springs so they can fine tune the carburetor to each specific application. I just try to make my saws run.

Mark

 

[forgetaboudit]

You can't make this up. Get home from work, turn the saw on, one pull she fires right up! Take the chain break off chain spins well it's running great all of a sudden the chain comes flying off the bar. Turn it off, take the bar off notice the chain tension is broke now. I am getting tired of this ****.
I'd switch everything over to the donor saw but it's only got 70 PSI for compression.

 

[Bubster]

You can't make this up. Get home from work, turn the saw on, one pull she fires right up! Take the chain break off chain spins well it's running great all of a sudden the chain comes flying off the bar. Turn it off, take the bar off notice the chain tension is broke now. I am getting tired of this ****.
I'd switch everything over to the donor saw but it's only got 70 PSI for compression.

should be a pretty easy part to find on fee bay,or maybe one of the fine folks here has a spare to ship to ya.They are good about that.

 

[Bubster]

You can't make this up. Get home from work, turn the saw on, one pull she fires right up! Take the chain break off chain spins well it's running great all of a sudden the chain comes flying off the bar. Turn it off, take the bar off notice the chain tension is broke now. I am getting tired of this ****.
I'd switch everything over to the donor saw but it's only got 70 PSI for compression.

looks like around $9 .I see several for sale.But I know what you mean.What breaks next?

 

[forgetaboudit]

should be a pretty easy part to find on fee bay,or maybe one of the fine folks here has a spare to ship to ya.They are good about that.

looks like around $9 .I see several for sale.But I know what you mean.What breaks next?

Luckily I have a donor saw on the workbench I'm harvesting parts from LOL. Now if I can just get the ********** to keep running, chain tensioner is replaced.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I bought 2 at the same time...first run, a screw backed out, got behind the flywheel and got launched up thru the oiler housing...

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[forgetaboudit]

I bought 2 at the same time...first run, a screw backed out, got behind the flywheel and got launched up thru the oiler housing...

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Always something ain't it??

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Always something ain't it??

It gave me an opportunity to break that saw down to the bare crank, clean every single part and reassemble it. I also broke the spare saw down to the crank, cleaned it and loosely reassembled it so, minus the oiler, i have a complete spare saw all cleaned up sealed in a box.

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[forgetaboudit]

So I've got my carb rebuild kit, almost done with reassembly and I don't know which gasket to use.
Im on the pump side and the kit came with a rubber gasket and a regular gasket material gasket. Which one should I be using?

 

[heimannm]

I don't think it will matter in this application, I would choose the rubber one since they seem to be less likely to stick to the body and tear when you disassemble later on.

I am sure there is a lot of science and engineering into why they provide two distinctly different gaskets but in the practical sense I think you will find it doesn't really matter.

I have found in other carburetors that use a stamped steel cover the gasket selection is more critical since the stamped parts are often not very flat.

Mark

 

[forgetaboudit]

Alright!!!! She's alive!!!!!!
Runs and idles great EXCEPT when I run it wide open, it'll bog out. If I back the lo screw out, it'll run great wide open but then the idle is too high and the chain turns at idle. If I back the idle screw out enough that the chain stops spinning, it won't idle.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Alright!!!! She's alive!!!!!!
Runs and idles great EXCEPT when I run it wide open, it'll bog out. If I back the lo screw out, it'll run great wide open but then the idle is too high and the chain turns at idle. If I back the idle screw out enough that the chain stops spinning, it won't idle.

Your high needle shouldn't affect the idle, back the base idle needle out a turn or two and get it to idle right then worry about the H

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[forgetaboudit]

Your high needle shouldn't affect the idle, back the base idle needle out a turn or two and get it to idle right then worry about the H

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The high needle didnt do anything for the saw in or out.
The LO needle affected the idle. I didn't say anything about the hi needle before, just the lo and idle screws.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

The high needle didnt do anything for the saw in or out.
The LO needle affected the idle. I didn't say anything about the hi needle before, just the lo and idle screws.

Okay, your Lo needle should have virtually no affect on high speed tuning, only idle and just off idle/transition. Your Hi needle being out 2 or 3 turns doesn't make it nearly flood at wide open?

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