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Post it, now I really want to see it!

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It was covered in old paint etc. so I gave it a quick trip to the brush wheel to clean it up. I can't find any mill marks anywhere on it, unlike the old axhead I found a while ago. The dots you can see on the side have been punched in by hand and spell either "DMI" or "DMT", I can't be sure. I am pretty sure it wasn't done at the steelworks though.

I couldn't tell you how old it is or if they're very rare, but as I said I've never seen one quite like it with that cone-style business end. That's a pretty steep curve on the claw, too, eh? Looks like about 85°! Now that I have it cleaned up I want to go find a handle for it... Shouldn't be too expensive, it looks like a pretty standard size.
 
I've seen a bunch of old claw hammers like that here. In fact, I think I have one outside? I'd have to look again but I think it's fairly identical.

They sure are a neat looking hammer for sure.
 
I've seen a bunch of old claw hammers like that here. In fact, I think I have one outside? I'd have to look again but I think it's fairly identical.

They sure are a neat looking hammer for sure.

Agreed. I suppose if I do get a new handle, I'll have to beat the crap out of it and give it some oil and dirt to distress it a bit, or it'll look really out of place.
 
Brad, do you have any idea what the head weighs? If it is over 26 ozs it is a hardwood floor laying hammer, they were all made with the cone style heads. The claws were tucked in to keep them from striking the subfloor when driving, "cut", nails and also to help prevent striking the wall as the completed flooring neared the far wall.
Pioneerguy600
 
I have a hammer like that somewhere, but mine is not for hardwood floor, it's really small, 8 ounce maybe ?
Same cone shape on the head though, have to go find it and look at the claws...
 
I have a hammer like that somewhere, but mine is not for hardwood floor, it's really small, 8 ounce maybe ?
Same cone shape on the head though, have to go find it and look at the claws...

The hardwood floor hammers were heavy for driving the cut nails, we never used the claws to pull up a damaged board as we made our handles out of virola pine or ash, I prefered white ash as it asorbs a lot of shock. We always carreid a 12" steel claw bar for pulling any serious nails or strips of flooring up.
Pioneerguy600
 
Jerry, it is a fairly large head as far as claw hammers go - guess I should have put a ruler etc. in the pic for scale - but I don't think it would be 26+ oz, at least comparing to a couple of my larger framing hammers. I'd say probably at least 20 oz. though. The only scale I have that would be accurate enough to tell is a big old meat scale, the kind with the huge cylinder scale inside that has prices and everything on it. I got it for free years ago and have NO idea how to go about reading it, but it's pretty sensitive.
 
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Jerry, it is a fairly large head as far as claw hammers go - guess I should have put a ruler etc. in the pic for scale - but I don't think it would be 26+ oz, at least comparing to a couple of my larger framing hammers. I'd say probably at least 20 oz. though. The only scale I have that would be accurate enough to tell is a big old meat scale, the kind with the huge cylinder scale inside that has prices and everything on it. I got it for free years ago and have NO idea how to go about reading it, but it's pretty sensitive.

The common floor hammers ranged from 26 through to 32 oz and were built much like yours, I have seen regular hammers like yours weighing 12-22 oz. so there must have been a whole line of them made back when. If I ever get back down to the farm there might still be some of them still hanging around the blacksmith shop. There was litterally tons of old steel tools just hanging from the walls and rafters in that old shop.
Pioneerguy600
 
7oaks-Zyliss Vise

Hello 7oaks,In a prior post I mentioned that in the picture you posted of the Zyliss vise the part that is in the foreground of your picture,I have.What I'm trying to figure out is that somewhere I have seen that you can place one of the jaws with the red plastic guards in one of the parts(I think it's the one part in the foreground) at any place along a bench and thus be able to almost clamp anything of any length.I have the instruction manual and parts manual from a download,but can't find a picture of one of the jaws situated the way I have explained.Have you used your vise in this situation?If so could you post a picture of the vise jaw used remotely?I have figured out how the one end of the turning part can be used at a distance because it has little tabs that slip into that part,but the jaws do not have those tabs.so how would you fix it to that part?Hope this is all making sense,or maybe I was under some kind of influence when I think I saw the jaw being used this way
Many Thanks
Lawrence
 
Pretty nice! Now you just need to find some decent motors. You'll want at least 3/4HP for both. You could get away with a half-horse on the lathe for spindles etc. but it'll bog out easier if you want to do larger-diameter stuff like bowls.

Just FYI, the lathe is set up backwards there; the headstock should be to the left. Just turn the tool rest around to the other side.
:cheers:
 
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Good scores peteoldsaw!

I was visiting my cutting buddies Hud and Sandi (The folks whose farm I go and visit and mill at) yesterday and they had a few tool shop vouchers that were about to go past their use by date so Hud let me have them and I took them off to a local woodworking store this afternoon and I bought myself a nice little Lee Valley low angle block plane for less than 2/3 of retail.
 
regarding the hammer, alot of carpenters hammers looked like that well before the advent of straight claws, and the term/type framing hammers like Vaughan etc.... then came the California framers, that used the head off a riggers hatchet and the straight claws off a framer...hart were one of the first amongst these.... the curved claws will pull a nail easier than a framing hammer and less likely to mar the timber. Australia didnt have any framing hammers until estwing started selling their 28oz long metal handle framer that became popular among formworkers here, especilaly for stripping.

im not saying that it isnt a specialty flooring hammer, but alot of carpenters hammers at the turn of the centery 1800/1900 looked like this one.

one thing to remember is that house framing changed drimaticaly in the 50/60s and this inturn changed alot of tools

Serg
 
petesoldsaw I have the mate to your jointer and lathe, picked up an old Rockwell/Beaver tabletop drill press at a yard sale for $20 nothing wrong with it. It's going to the cabin. They are so well built!!! No chinese!!!
 
B Morgan-BobL-Bigbadbob

Thanks for your replies to my new acquisitions! I know that two of the mounting plates that I pictured in the post go with the lathe but I'm not sure about the aluminum ones.As the one that with the internal threads is not the same threading as the lathe.

Brad,thanks for the lathe tip.I had just finished cleaning it up and did not pay any attention to correct alignment of things,nor did i really know.I'm a lathe newbie.

BobL,Do you have a Lee Valley store in Australia ? If not I'm sure they would send you a catalog.Their Veritas tools are great but pricey.Did you also know that Lee Valley also makes surgical equipment such as retractors.

Bigbadbob.At the garage sale I was at they had a floor model Rockwell drill press for sale.there are more tools for sale coming up ,not sure just when.You know just about everyone I talk to say's those old Rockwell machines are the cat's ass.
Lawrence
 
Little Possum

Come back often it's only getting better.Hope you can contribute,we would love to see what you like in tools,hand tools,woodworking tools,metal working tools,electrical tools,diagnostic tools,small tools for fixing chainsaws,welding fabrication tools,tools for working plastic or leather, anything along those lines.
Lawrence
 
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Zyliss vise pics

Hello 7oaks,In a prior post I mentioned that in the picture you posted of the Zyliss vise the part that is in the foreground of your picture,I have.What I'm trying to figure out is that somewhere I have seen that you can place one of the jaws with the red plastic guards in one of the parts(I think it's the one part in the foreground) at any place along a bench and thus be able to almost clamp anything of any length.I have the instruction manual and parts manual from a download,but can't find a picture of one of the jaws situated the way I have explained.Have you used your vise in this situation?If so could you post a picture of the vise jaw used remotely?I have figured out how the one end of the turning part can be used at a distance because it has little tabs that slip into that part,but the jaws do not have those tabs.so how would you fix it to that part?Hope this is all making sense,or maybe I was under some kind of influence when I think I saw the jaw being used this way
Many Thanks
Lawrence


Lawrence...

I thought these pics of the box for the vise shows the use of the auxiliary attachment better than I can describe it. Hope this is what you are looking for...

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