Tool Forum

[Philbert]

Good Karma

Right after I posted the tip on the magnets, above, I took the dog for a walk and stopped at an estate sale. Lot of higher priced household stuff. The 'basement & garage stuff' they grouped in boxes - e.g. a box of pliers for $20 (a bit high), a box of screwdrivers for $20 (high). Found this box of drills for $20. Really only wanted the Milwaukee. I only had $12 with me and they took it, being close to the end of the day. Everything works, but I will need to replace a few cords.

Philbert

 

[Brmorgan]

Yup, I have a whole stack of those magnets lying around! SUPER handy things! And yeah, I have hurt myself with them a few times, got some wicked blood blisters over the years on a couple fingers. My next project to make with a few is a magnetic straightedge guide for a cutting torch, if I ever get the time at work. Just spent most of the day Friday moving all my tools from the shop I was in up to the main Planer shop. I'm now full-time planer maintenance and shift supervisor, so they wanted my tools right by the planer itself. Makes sense I guess, but what a chore moving them all! I didn't realize I'd accumulated so much stuff in four months of doing maintenance there!

I built myself two kickass slide hammers a couple weeks back, one huge one and a smaller everyday one, but I don't have a picture of both completed right now. I'll take one this week once I'm all settled in and organized in the new shop. I also acquired a 17" floor-model King drill press for $140 at the tool auction last weekend. It's nothing fancy and pretty much identical to the benchtop one I already had, but they're well over $300 new for the same thing, and this one is barely used at all and in excellent working order.

I'm slowly working on collecting parts to build myself a milling machine. I have a really sturdy headstock and no shortage of steel for the structure and shafting etc. to have a spindle milled out of, and I know an old guy who's a genius with a lathe who can mill me a spindle for cheap. It won't be fancy, but it'll let me get some jobs done around the mill without sending things out, and I can gradually add what I want to it. I dunno. We'll see how well it works, I guess, and it could be months before it becomes a reality since it's just very much a side project. But I've poked around the 'net a bit and looked at some milling machines other guys have built, and they didn't look like rocket science or anything.

 

[WesternSaw]

DeWalt Power Shop 1960's

Hi Fellas
I have been on the lookout for some more woodworking equipment and I'm pretty sure a deal is coming together on a 1960' DeWalt PowerShop Radial Arm Saw.I know there are concerns about using radial arm saws,some won't go near them. I have not used one since the eighth grade.I plan to follow all safety rules when usinig this machine.If it works out I will post pictures.

I need to catch up on prior posts here.Don't know whats going on but my email has not alerted me to new posts on the Tool Forum, Hmmmmmmmm!

While I'm here does anyone have a Roto Zip model RZ-2300?Are they a good machine to have around?
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[joe25DA]

Right after I posted the tip on the magnets, above, I took the dog for a walk and stopped at an estate sale. Lot of higher priced household stuff. The 'basement & garage stuff' they grouped in boxes - e.g. a box of pliers for $20 (a bit high), a box of screwdrivers for $20 (high). Found this box of drills for $20. Really only wanted the Milwaukee. I only had $12 with me and they took it, being close to the end of the day. Everything works, but I will need to replace a few cords.

Philbert

Great score! Id have bought the lot for that milwaukee drill too. The rest of the tool are nice too, especially that right angle attachment.

 

[Brmorgan]

Hi Fellas
I have been on the lookout for some more woodworking equipment and I'm pretty sure a deal is coming together on a 1960' DeWalt PowerShop Radial Arm Saw.I know there are concerns about using radial arm saws,some won't go near them. I have not used one since the eighth grade.I plan to follow all safety rules when usinig this machine.If it works out I will post pictures.

I need to catch up on prior posts here.Don't know whats going on but my email has not alerted me to new posts on the Tool Forum, Hmmmmmmmm!

While I'm here does anyone have a Roto Zip model RZ-2300?Are they a good machine to have around?
Thanks
Lawrence

Lawrence, radials aren't really all that bad if they're set up properly, and you must always remember to keep your "holding" hand (usually the left) and especially thumb out of the line of cut. Tighten the trunnion wheels JUST enough so that the saw carriage rolls smoothly on the rails, but has some resistance to it so that it doesn't want to race towards you quite as much. And always use a sharp and straight blade; it's the dull ones that want to bite and pull badly. Use a firm grip and a nice controlled cut speed, and it should be OK. Watch out for things like knots and whatnot that could grab the blade, of course. I usually keep a 60T blade on mine, it's less aggressive than a regular ripping blade because of the lower hook angle and higher tooth count, and I use an 80T blade for fine crosscut work where I don't want tearout, such as thin plywood or baseboards and moldings. Since I have a tablesaw around I never really use mine for ripping boards anymore, but I have and it does a good job with a 24T ripping blade too. Since the carriage is locked and turned 90° for that operation, there's no risk of it running at you anymore, but it'll kick back just like a tablesaw, so caution is still necessary.

I love radials; if I could only have one saw in my shop, that's what it would be. They can do 90% of what a tablesaw and miter saw can do together; albeit sometimes not as conveniently, but nevertheless... And those old DeWalts are considered some of the best radials ever built - extremely accurate, and heavily made so they can be fixed IF they break down, which from what I've read is rare.

Can't help you out with the Roto-Zip thing though. I have tools similar to it that are very handy at times, but can't speak for that model specifically.

 

[Philbert]

I'm pretty sure a deal is coming together on a 1960' DeWalt PowerShop Radial Arm Saw. . . .While I'm here does anyone have a Roto Zip model RZ-2300?Are they a good machine to have around?

I got a deal on a radial arm saw, several years ago, and liked it, especially for cross-cutting tasks. There are a lot of things that you can do with it (rip, rout, flexible shaft tool, etc.), if that was the only tool that you had, but that does not mean that it is the best tool for those other tasks.

Like a lot of other home woodworkers, I had to face a space issue, and decided that my table saw and a decent mitre box fit just about everything I really needed to do. But if I had the space, I would have kept it.

One thing I remember about my radial arm saw, aside from the safety issues mentioned, is how many adjustments that were possible/required to get it perfectly aligned. On my table saw, once you get the blade aligned with the mitre slot, then the fence to the blade, you are essentially done. The radial arm had head tilt, head rotation parallel to track, arm/track parallel to table, arm/track perpendicular to fence, and a few more. I want to say that there were at least 7 things, but it has been many years. Get one of those 'making the most out of your radial arm saw' type books from the library, or used off of Amazon.com, and take a look at it. Once you get it set up you will really know your machine and not have to do that again (unless you move it a lot).

I also have a Roto-Zip (don't know which model) - it is useful for cutting things (drywall, plaster, tile, plywood, etc.) with the right (disposable) bits, mostly in construction / remodeling applications. Things that theoretically you could do with a router, but would not want to use your router for. I have not used one with the right angle attachment and cut off discs as I have other tools that do that (Dremel tool for small things, pneumatic die grinders for mid-size things, and a 4-1/2 electric grinder for bigger things).

Have fun.

Philbert

 

[WesternSaw]

Lawrence, radials aren't really all that bad if they're set up properly, and you must always remember to keep your "holding" hand (usually the left) and especially thumb out of the line of cut. Tighten the trunnion wheels JUST enough so that the saw carriage rolls smoothly on the rails, but has some resistance to it so that it doesn't want to race towards you quite as much. And always use a sharp and straight blade; it's the dull ones that want to bite and pull badly. Use a firm grip and a nice controlled cut speed, and it should be OK. Watch out for things like knots and whatnot that could grab the blade, of course. I usually keep a 60T blade on mine, it's less aggressive than a regular ripping blade because of the lower hook angle and higher tooth count, and I use an 80T blade for fine crosscut work where I don't want tearout, such as thin plywood or baseboards and moldings. Since I have a tablesaw around I never really use mine for ripping boards anymore, but I have and it does a good job with a 24T ripping blade too. Since the carriage is locked and turned 90° for that operation, there's no risk of it running at you anymore, but it'll kick back just like a tablesaw, so caution is still necessary.

I love radials; if I could only have one saw in my shop, that's what it would be. They can do 90% of what a tablesaw and miter saw can do together; albeit sometimes not as conveniently, but nevertheless... And those old DeWalts are considered some of the best radials ever built - extremely accurate, and heavily made so they can be fixed IF they break down, which from what I've read is rare.

Can't help you out with the Roto-Zip thing though. I have tools similar to it that are very handy at times, but can't speak for that model specifically.[/QUOTE

Brad,It seems you have done your homework yet again! As you have echoed everything some fellas who are collectors of these saw have told me.
I am officially the new owner of the DeWalt PowerShop mentioned.I will post up some pics as soon as I can with some more information.
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[WesternSaw]

Radial Arm Saw

I got a deal on a radial arm saw, several years ago, and liked it, especially for cross-cutting tasks. There are a lot of things that you can do with it (rip, rout, flexible shaft tool, etc.), if that was the only tool that you had, but that does not mean that it is the best tool for those other tasks.

Like a lot of other home woodworkers, I had to face a space issue, and decided that my table saw and a decent mitre box fit just about everything I really needed to do. But if I had the space, I would have kept it.

One thing I remember about my radial arm saw, aside from the safety issues mentioned, is how many adjustments that were possible/required to get it perfectly aligned. On my table saw, once you get the blade aligned with the mitre slot, then the fence to the blade, you are essentially done. The radial arm had head tilt, head rotation parallel to track, arm/track parallel to table, arm/track perpendicular to fence, and a few more. I want to say that there were at least 7 things, but it has been many years. Get one of those 'making the most out of your radial arm saw' type books from the library, or used off of Amazon.com, and take a look at it. Once you get it set up you will really know your machine and not have to do that again (unless you move it a lot).

I also have a Roto-Zip (don't know which model) - it is useful for cutting things (drywall, plaster, tile, plywood, etc.) with the right (disposable) bits, mostly in construction / remodeling applications. Things that theoretically you could do with a router, but would not want to use your router for. I have not used one with the right angle attachment and cut off discs as I have other tools that do that (Dremel tool for small things, pneumatic die grinders for mid-size things, and a 4-1/2 electric grinder for bigger things).

Have fun.

Philbert

Philbert- you have also mentioned many things that I have heard from the collectors, especially the book.Apparently there are two that are very informative which focus a lot on the DeWalt's.I will keep you and the othere posted.
Thanks
Lawrence

 

[Brmorgan]

Brad,It seems you have done your homework yet again! As you have echoed everything some fellas who are collectors of these saw have told me.
I am officially the new owner of the DeWalt PowerShop mentioned.I will post up some pics as soon as I can with some more information.
Thanks
Lawrence

Thanks, Lawrence. Good to hear you got it! On one that old, just check that all the bearings and everything are nice and tight and smooth. You don't want any amount of play or wobble in them. Better to replace a loose bearing right away than have it cause further damage down the road.

My radial is a Craftsman 10" professional series. You can still get ones nearly identical to it from Sears, they're about $1000 CDN new. I paid $80 for mine at a yard sale. I had to put another $30 into it to get it going since there were a couple broken parts and it had sat outside for a while, but it works. There's still a few minor things to be replaced and fixed, but nothing that keeps me from using it. I even found the shaper/molding head to match it at another yard sale for another $30 a year later. Still haven't used that at all, but it was literally brand new and came with a dozen sets of knives for different profiles, which I know is worth considerably more than I paid.

And yeah, as Philbert said, they can be tricky to set up and get adjusted properly, especially if you are always doing a diverse number of jobs with them as you're moving and changing things all the time. If you just use them for crosscuts, once they're set up properly they hold true pretty well. Once you learn the adjustments and whatnot though, it's not too difficult to understand and troubleshoot any inconsistencies you find in your cuts and make adjustments accordingly.

 

[rb142]

Philbert- you have also mentioned many things that I have heard from the collectors, especially the book.Apparently there are two that are very informative which focus a lot on the DeWalt's.I will keep you and the othere posted.
Thanks
Lawrence

I have one of those old DeWalts too, and there is quite a large community of owners out there. The best thing you can do for your radial is to get a negative rake tooth blade for it. Positive rake hook-tooth blades greatly increase the tendency to climb-cut and be hard to control.

 

[WesternSaw]

DeWalt RAS 925H

Hi Fellas
Well what do you know, I'm finally posting a tool picture!
Here's the newly aqquired Dewalt Power Shop 925H

Lawrence

 

[Warped5]

Hi Fellas
Well what do you know, I'm finally posting a tool picture!
Here's the newly aqquired Dewalt Power Shop 925H
Lawrence

Holy smokes! It's been years since I've seen one of those and boy howdy, is it clean!

 

[Philbert]

Hi FellasWell what do you know, I'm finally posting a tool picture!

Looks like it is in great shape. Congratulations.

Philbert

 

[joe25DA]

Hi Fellas
Well what do you know, I'm finally posting a tool picture!
Here's the newly aqquired Dewalt Power Shop 925H

Lawrence

very nice Pete. Ill have to take a picture of the one up at my grand mothers. It was my grandfathers and its a Toolkraft.

 

[Fifelaker]

Handy

Dont know if anybody has put this up yet? I bought this for 19 door jambs I had to raise. This little thing did all 19 in less than an hour. I told my wife if I ever kill it I'm getting a better one. It has alot of uses I can see with the other attchments.View attachment 203591

 

[Philbert]

Dont know if anybody has put this up yet? . . . I told my wife if I ever kill it I'm getting a better one.

I have one of the original versions, manufactured by Fein. Very well-made tool, but since it was the only one out there at the time, it was a bit pricey. Finally bit the bullet a few years back and have really enjoyed having it. Mostly use it for sanding.

Since then, there have been a number of companies selling them (patents expired?): Bosch, Dremel, Rockwell, Craftsman, Rigid, etc., so you have more choices and a wider price range. The newer Feins have some advantages in holding the attachments more securely, and being easier to change. I would look at another Fein if I needed one.

Some of the attachments will fit other brands of oscillating tools. There are also some adaptors sold to fit attachments of one brand to oscillating tools made by another brand, which gives users a bit more flexibility. Again, the Fein blades, etc., are very good quality but more costly. They are a bit more affordable if you buy the blades as part of a multi-piece set (assuming that you can use all of the pieces).

Philbert

 

[Fifelaker]

I bought a kit with a bunch of attchments I think some of these would cut diamonds. The scraper is very handy. like you said the sander is nice. I found out after you cut a nail it will still cut door jambs:biggrin: but just a little bit slower I should have bought the kit at the seme time I guess I will never learn.

 

[Modifiedmark]

New tool

I might have to put some saw projects on hold. I picked up a lathe the other day and it needs a little attention but I think it will end up a usefull tool.

Best I can tell is its a Atlas 10F TH42. That means its a 10" swing with a 24" bed. Seems to only need some leadscrew bevel gears and some severe cleanup.

 

[Warped5]

I might have to put some saw projects on hold. I picked up a lathe the other day and it needs a little attention but I think it will end up a usefull tool.

Best I can tell is its a Atlas 10F TH42. That means its a 10" swing with a 24" bed. Seems to only need some leadscrew bevel gears and some severe cleanup.

Yep, but where you have it placed is telling me that you'll be moving it so you can hook up the plow .... :hmm3grin2orange:

Mebbe time to bump out the building like you were talking .....

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yep, but where you have it placed is telling me that you'll be moving it so you can hook up the plow .... :hmm3grin2orange:

Mebbe time to bump out the building like you were talking .....

Yes I will be moving it, no doubt. Looks like a good place to clean it up first though.

Way past time to bump out the building.......