tools

[glens]

John,

A good rule of thumb on biannual tire air rotation is to perform the task while you're adjusting your clocks (or would if your locale went for that) between summer time and winter time.  You should rotate the air in the opposite direction of your tire rotation scheme for optimal results.


Beginner,

If you live near an air base, you really should head over there and try to score a couple of containers of Jet Wash, and if they'll part with it, a few lengths of Flight Line.  When you need them, there are no suitable substitutes.  Depending on who you ask, the Navy will have better stuff than the Air Force; and opinions can be held with strong conviction so caution is advised, especially if both sources are represented when the topic is raised.  Remember, your tax dollars helped pay for it, so don't let them try to charge you anything!

 

[dbabcock]

There is a big difference between summer tire air and winter, therefore when I take the summer air out of my tires in the fall, I save it to put back in in the spring. I save my winter air as well. It's a density altitude thing.

 

[Crofter]

Doug; It is important to use an energy efficient air exchanger when you seasonally rotate your tire air. It stores the air at the same pressure so you don't suffer the energy loss from decompression. Even Beginner would know this!

Frank

 

[ClearH20Scott]

John, discontinue using summer and winter air. Fill all your tires
up with fix-a-flat, year round. This will cover you in a couple of
areas. You will be protected from any unseen road hazards
you may encounter, and you will be free from that greasy,
grimy, mess that comes with changing the seasonal air in
your tires. "Works as well as nev'r dull" is what everyone tells
me, and I have always been inclined to believe what everyone
tells me.

 

[Gypo Logger]

I followed your guys advice and I let out the summer air, but I must admit that I have a problem now. It appears that the tire is flat on one side only. What should I do?
John

 

[dbabcock]

John,
Fix-a-Flat has several new products on the market. I addition to now offering Fix-a-Flat Summer and Fix-a-Flat Winter, they now offer half size cans called Fix-Half-a-Flat-Inside and Fix-Half-a-Flat-Outside for use in your exact application. Just make sure that you have both types in your tool box for either condition. The only problem with this is that Fix-a-Flat has yet to come out with seasonal variants of their new Half-a-Flat products, which would mean that they would have Fix-Half-a-Flat-Inside-Summer, Fix-Half-a-Flat-Inside-Winter, Fix-Half-a-Flat-Outside-Summer and Fix-Half-a-Flat-Outside-Winter. It's a real Halfassed thing.

 

[user 2993]

Or you could drive your truck to Brazil, where it is summer. This should equalize the pressure. Do they still sell 090's in Brazil? Could be worth the trip. Big timber there too, I hear.
Good luck,
George

 

[bwalker]

Fix-a-Flat has several new products on the market

The stuff work on snowmobile tracks?

 

[oakman]

it appears to me that there is plenty of air to go around here, although it is at a decidedly higher temperature than normal.........

 

[glens]

Not getting in to Walmart very often, I couldn't say what they have on their shelves.&nbsp; They <i>might</i> have what you're looking for.

I don't know about the foil on the buckets, but a film such as Saran Wrap might work well.&nbsp; Ziplock baggies work quite nicely.&nbsp; Do not fill the containers completely full, since some of the warm air might be lost when the container contracts in the cold, reducing it's capacity.&nbsp; In severe cases the container can even burst, causing a total loss of the cached material.

The summer air works satisfactorily during the fall, but if you leave it in until winter, there will be a great safety concern as a result.&nbsp; You see, the warm summer air will cause any snow or ice to melt when the tire comes into contact with it.&nbsp; You might think that was a good idea, but if you've ever experienced it you'd know otherwise.&nbsp; The result is an almost complete loss of traction as the water film slides effortlessly over the snow/ice, and it carries the tire with it.&nbsp; The technical term is "summairoplaning" and if the insurance company is able to determine the cause of a winter accident to be negligent use of summer tire air, well, you're looking at some jail time at a minimum.&nbsp; A very similar result will occur in the summer rains if winter air is left in the tires - a constant film of ice with total loss of traction ("wintairiskating").

It's no surprise that you're unfamiliar with the phenomenon, being from as far south as you are.&nbsp; The effects really come into play once one gets as far north as Kentucky or Arkansas.

 

[Gypo Logger]

I got it fixed now I think. After putting in the winter air I noticed a huge bulge on the sidewall of one of the tires, which after a while went "pop", and I could see the air showing thru, so, just to be on the safe side I took off both rear wheels and mounted the good one right beneath the trailer hitch as a makeshift castor wheel. It now rides really nice and steers rather well, but it must be in 4WD. It does ,however, go into a speed wobble when reaching speeds over 200Kh/hr. Could I be needing some balljoint shims?
Thanks for the help.
John

 

[user 2993]

I'd say rigging some Honda brakes on it might help, but it sounds difficult. Just stick some chewing gum in the camber wells. Gradually remove the excess with Gumout until you reach the desired pitch.
Good luck, George

 

[My2cents]

I recently replaced the air in my tires with Helium, and noticed an increase in gas milage upwards of 15 m.p.g. I noticed although if I increased the pressure above 35 P.S.I. there is a loss of traction. On the snowy days I replace the tire air with Argon, the increased weight allows for high speed turns with no slipping.

 

[glens]

John,

I've always had to set the parking brake whenever I do that, so the power will transfer to the front and not just spin the empty rear hubs.&nbsp; First I tried using vice-grips to hold a piece of pipe between the lug nuts, but it kept bashing up the wheel wells, and sometimes it snaps off the lugs.&nbsp; And backing up is real tricky too, like with a full trailer, so what I always do whenever I'm getting into a situation where I'd have to back up, I'll cut the wheel and hit the brakes on the way in so the butt end swings around.&nbsp; It takes a little practice to judge how much speed and braking is required, so it's best not to try to park right up by the door in the market parking lot at first (I learned that the hard way).&nbsp; (I was thinking about putting my tractor tires on the front of the truck, because I can brake them individually and that might help for backing up and parking, I don't know.)&nbsp; Sometimes I change over even when all my tires are good, but I need the load of firewood in the house more than I need it for helping with traction in the truck.

Your friend,
Bucyrus

 

[treeclimber165]

OK, I got my hip boots so I'm ready to jump into this thread.

 

[Dennis]

Brian!!!!

I did save it for my personal archives though....hehe

 

[treeclimber165]

OOPS, I must have posted the wrong picture. Sorry, folks!

 

[glens]

That would be the one you'd usually use to reply to me, I guess.

Are your boots caulked?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by beginner
By he way, today I learned how to change the brakes on a vehicle. It was a Honda and the instructor said that it was the hardest ones to change that he ever saw. The car belonged to the assistant dean, so I hope it was all done correctly!

A boat anchor tied to 100ft. of Arbor-plex would stop it nicely too!

 

[rahtreelimbs]

beginner

One thing that would be good to add to your arsenal of tools would be 50ft. of spooled pipe thread and a muffler bearing changer!