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xtremetrees

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After being banned from M.B.'s site by MB himself I realized I probably am to extreme even for this character. Its hard living up to my name but I try.

I took a top yesterday (on the rope) and I just about bit the dust.
Or more correctly my saw about bit my face. Heres why.

I take big pieces dont all C.A.'s take big pieces?
There was no room to let it run so he let it run 5 feet then stopped it hard. I didnt have time to set my saw into the 8 inch ring and it dangled at the 2 foot lanyard, needless to say it swung around my head about twice.
The ground man yelled "Are you ok?" He's been roppin logs for about 4 years and got the hang of it well. I yelled, "Yeah, are you ok?"

Thank goodness I had time to hit my chainbreak because my ole husky 141 is about wore out and vibrates bad and idles almost wide open.

Secondly or maybey fourthly. And probably my most important step when rigging large tops is these steps I take to stay alive.

A.) Rigging trees puts alot of weight on a rope, this rope can cut your arm off can cut other rope as well, be on a steel core or die dude.

1.) Be sure your safety is below your riggin point. This ensures your safety wont flip off during violent spar bucking. Because your rigging gear will lay over your safety, sometimes traping it to the tree.

2.) Tie an escape route with another rope and attach a fig 8. Have it ready to bail, make sure your groundman knows how to lower you.

3.) Do not stand on the lowering side of the top or the back side, stand to the side of the spar and let the movement be to your left and then right.
I've found my spikes dont kick out near as much when I started standing to the side. Also I am less apt to bust my jaw by standing to the side.

I know I am not a pro at this but I've done alot of it I hope this helps you brother
 
I said, "There was no room to let it run so he let it run 5 feet then stopped it hard. "

On second thought, I did not get enuff slack out of my rigging rope.
:givebeer: :monkey: :cheers:
 
Why take big pieces and shock load your system?

Are you familiar with a vertical speedline? http://tinyurl.com/o2bfs If you're going to just bomb pieces it works well.

Why do you have a short lanyard on your saw?

Why doesn't the saw idle correctly?

Are you good or just lucky?
 
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Never had anything like that happen to me, one of the advantages of free dropping, or do like Tom says, little pieces, even though it will take you longer it is safer. Another little hint, when you go to push or let the top go, wrap your steelcore, flipline around the stem, choking it, helps you to stay planted. And your saw lanyard, as Tom noted, is way too short.
 
Hey Tom is there any way you can post a picture of that speed line trick you are talking about or a diagram.. I am having trouble seeing it in my mind what you are talking about. Thank you.
 
Tom_Blough said:
All your tie-ins should be ABOVE the rigging. If the rigging slips down with the log, you don't want it taking you with it! If you are worried about your safety slipping off, double wrap it.

Interesting, I had the same suspicion when reading "Because your rigging gear will lay over your safety, sometimes trapping it to the tree."

In that scenario "it" is you. Thanks for mentioning that Tom.

Also in Extremetree's accident scenario finishing with a handsaw would have provided the opportunity to safely position the chainsaw (and get the handsaw put away) before pushing the chunk off. I must admit even with a longer lanyard the idea of a high idling saw whipping in vertical circles is a nightmare.
 
Thanks clearance that was a good read.
By the way I paid good money to watch those arbormaster clowns bomb a fence oh say that was 11 years ago.:jawdrop:
 
You guys are missing my point it wasnt chunk it was a tall skinny hardwood top.

I'm guessing only 7 inch DBH at 60 feet. Went up to 75 feet. Leaned over the house, try and stow your saw on a leaner, nope cant do it bro.
 
Usually I push the top with one hand and hold the saw with the other, if it is a big top, or a top that needs a good push, I cut with one hand and as I complete my cut/start to get pinched I drop my saw, idling of course behind me, and quickly use both hands. I kind of hit it, if you know what I mean to get it going. My saw is at about my boot level when it is hanging from my lanyard, good place.
 
Kenner says: " take smaller pieces"
I agree bro, I should have climbed higher say oh till it got 4 inches DBH and took even a better ride?
 
Wow! Extremetree: How long have you been in the industry? How long to you plan on staying in the industry? There were so many things wrong (which most pointed out already) with what you did. You need some education and an open mind to change your approach to safety in removals. I can't believe some of the stuff you admitted to. Be safe!
 
Please be specific Not a hacker?

I agree wrapping my steel core around twice is the best advice I've gotten so far.

I started doing zero ground impact trees in 1994. In highlands NC.
The great Ken Ledford taught me he runs G & H Tree Service.

At the end of most days Kenny would send me a O hand signal, I knew it meant we didnt bomb anything and it was a zero ground impact day.

How long have you been spikeless Notahacker?
 

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