Tutorial: make your own raker depth gauge supported by software tool

Rugged made
Wesspur
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I just pop in from time to time, when my username pops up.

If I didn't, you girls wouldn't have much to get into a "hissy" about....

Really, a unique depth tool gauge for each of the thosands of different chain loops?????

Sure....
 
This type of gauge can be used on any brand of chain, just not on stupid hump safety chain. And you really only need one for each pitch, not every type of chain made by every manufacturer. Carlton tried that with the File-o-Plate and their own chain and it was a disaster.

And ya need to realize this isn't an apples and oranges discussion. The basic Oregon style raker gauge is a 'static' style gauge and most free hand filers don't use that type of a gauge for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is they don't count each stroke when they file or carry calipers around so each tooth is precisely the same length to get precisely the same raker depth adjustment from such a gauge. The only time I use one is on the camel hump safety chain where a progressive style raker gauge won't work. Those gauges suit some folks..., mostly because they've never used or understood the benefits of a File-o-Plate or Husky style raker tool. There's your basic 'apple' part.

This thread is about progressive style depth gauge tools which function on an entirely different principal to achieve effective (and progressive) depth gauge adjustment based on the changing relationship between the cutter and the raker as the tooth gets shorter and shorter and the raker gets further and further away (relatively speaking). The dynamics the physical changes of the chain present to this particular approach can obviously be calculated
and accounted for in several ways in order to modify the design or desired result of this type of tool based on the conditions or intended application of the process. The OP simply presented a way to do so..., good, bad, or upside down in anyone else's opinion. That's the 'orange' part.

My pic shows how the orange differs from the apple. If I have some time later I'll post a couple more.

Why would someone care about any of this beyond the theoretical? Many would suggest it's a far superior way to manage depth gauges than the Home Depot or TSC approach..., or Joe's Saw and Mower Shop who simply doesn't know there's another way to adjust depth gauges on professional saw chain.

Now if I want to make a few of these things as described in the beginning of the thread, there's a roadmap there to do so. If not, I've learned a bit more about the variables involved with using the progressive gauge approach and how they could possibly be manipulated to change the way my chains perform. How anal I wanna be about any of it is a pretty abstract consideration since I'm already pretty whacky about my filing and grinding and depth gauge maintenance just using the skills I already have and the store-bought Husky gauges. Not sure what's left of my brain cells can handle much more..., like throwing a pear or pineapple into the mix on top of everything else.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
This type of gauge can be used on any brand of chain, just not on stupid hump safety chain. And you really only need one for each pitch, not every type of chain made by every manufacturer. Carlton tried that with the File-o-Plate and their own chain and it was a disaster.

And ya need to realize this isn't an apples and oranges discussion. The basic Oregon style raker gauge is a 'static' style gauge and most free hand filers don't use that type of a gauge for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is they don't count each stroke when they file or carry calipers around so each tooth is precisely the same length to get precisely the same raker depth adjustment from such a gauge. The only time I use one is on the camel hump safety chain where a progressive style raker gauge won't work. Those gauges suit some folks..., mostly because they've never used or understood the benefits of a File-o-Plate or Husky style raker tool. There's your basic 'apple' part.

This thread is about progressive style depth gauge tools which function on an entirely different principal to achieve effective (and progressive) depth gauge adjustment based on the changing relationship between the cutter and the raker as the tooth gets shorter and shorter and the raker gets further and further away (relatively speaking). The dynamics the physical changes of the chain present to this particular approach can obviously be calculated
and accounted for in several ways in order to modify the design or desired result of this type of tool based on the conditions or intended application of the process. The OP simply presented a way to do so..., good, bad, or upside down in anyone else's opinion. That's the 'orange' part.

My pic shows how the orange differs from the apple. If I have some time later I'll post a couple more.

Why would someone care about any of this beyond the theoretical? Many would suggest it's a far superior way to manage depth gauges than the Home Depot or TSC approach..., or Joe's Saw and Mower Shop who simply doesn't know there's another way to adjust depth gauges on professional saw chain.

Now if I want to make a few of these things as described in the beginning of the thread, there's a roadmap there to do so. If not, I've learned a bit more about the variables involved with using the progressive gauge approach and how they could possibly be manipulated to change the way my chains perform. How anal I wanna be about any of it is a pretty abstract consideration since I'm already pretty whacky about my filing and grinding and depth gauge maintenance just using the skills I already have and the store-bought Husky gauges. Not sure what's left of my brain cells can handle much more..., like throwing a pear or pineapple into the mix on top of everything else.
Click to expand...
What about bananas?
 
I "suggest" that the O.P. has a limited experience with the real world, and has worked up this extensive "tutorial", which is impressive.
But is not the definite "law" on chain upkeep, no matter how you girls wish it to be......
 
Some numbers for the three main Husky gauges. They can be used on most any non-safety chain worth sharpening. The .325 and 3/8 will also work on most safety chain (except camel hump) including the Oregon Vanguard chain with the bent over raker. The .404 is obviously only for pro chain. The 3/8 lo pro gauge offered by Husky is not a progressive style tool, but is like the Oregon tool with the gap in the middle that sits on each adjacent tooth.

.325 'Soft' Position -- 14.80mm
.325 'Hard' Position -- 19.00mm
Material Thickness -- .84mm

3/8 'Soft' Position -- 19.00mm
3/8 'Hard' Position -- 23.30mm
Material Thickness -- .84mm

.404 'Soft' Position -- 19.00mm
.404 'Hard' Position -- 22.00mm
Material Thickness -- .75mm

0429181929_resized.jpg​
 

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