Uncomfortable on spikes!

[beastmaster]

Get some tree spikes for those pines. Pole gaffs on most trees are to short in my opinion. I don't even *** my spikes in when I climb
but just let them stick on there own. With a longer spike you get more leverage and that'll hold you. I also hardly ever sharpen them. If you have the right angle even if they come out they'll go right back in. You have to find that sweet spot by adjusting your lanyard.
To much its unconfortable, hurts your back and difficult to advance the flip line, and if your to close its easy to gaff out.
Make sure the ends of the gaff isn't a sharp point. holding the gaff upside down sharping them from the inside out with a curve.
There is no need to jam those suckers in while you climb. just step and have them turned in a little, and they'll hold.
Make sure you have them tight around your foot so they don't move around.
When I work on them I like to have one leg higher then the other to help stabilize me when I am making a cut. This is especially important on skinny trees.
Most of all get a comfortable pair. They shouldn't be torture devices, and climb with them, you'll get the hang of them in time. Pole gaffs are for poles, get the longer tree spikes, that'll be a start. Good luck

 

[Tree Pig]

Lot of good advice here already, the only thing I would ad is to reinforce the point that the only thing that is going to make your more comfortable is more time in the spikes. Keep going and you will get to a point were you dont think about it. Also if you dont already you could set a climb line in the tree before going up. It may slow your entry to the tree a little but you may feel a little better. But as many have already mentioned you have to learn to trust your gear.

 

[randyg]

I meant perfectly round tree like a utility pole and the spikes pointing at the tree with the knees slightly bent. The little 12" diameter pines that are 60' and are about 8" in girth are the ones I really hate. Very easy to gaff an ankle. I will not do those unless I can hang from another tree swing to it and piece it out

IF, the only reason you are NOT liking those small diameter tall pines is fear of slipping down the stem, I can help. Rather than passing your steelcore flipline around the stem once, go around again, (make that second wrap under the first and will be easier when you go to unclip) and you can climb with confidence knowing it WILL choke and grab should you gaff out. I like to have flip adjusted loose enough that I can hold the wraps together with one hand forming a ring 4 or 5 inches in diameter larger than the tree and use my other hand on the back of the tree. I can watch spike placement as I step up while sliding that ring right on up at waste level. If I want to rest, I will take both hands to work the loop up around neck or head high where it will now choke on the stem, and then I can hang against the tree for a sec. to rest legs. When it comes time to work, shorten flip to choke at waist level.

While running saw in these type trees, I will ALSO have climbing line attached to tree. It lives just above my feet on a two ring friction saver (wrap and a half around the tree also). Climbing line is handy when chunking down 10 or 12 foot sections. Easier to descend on line than spiking down. Also takes weight off legs. MAIN REASON climbing line should be attached when running saw is in case of emergency. I make a lot of face cuts and back cuts at a height on my body that I don't even want to think about how much damage might be sustained should something go wrong (throw a chain, kick back etc.). You could bleed out and die in the tree while trying to rig a Tie In Point for the climbing line to descend on (possibly with limited or no use of one or more limbs). Better to just zip to the ground, slap a couple squares of paper towel on the injury, secured with a wrap or two of duck tape, and get back to work.

Climb safe.
randy

 

[ClimbMIT]

Thanks again guys. I managed to pick up some tree spikes at a local pawn shop. They are Buckingham and are pretty heavy though. I am going cut a pine down in my yard and I will try many of the suggestions stated here. I will take it low and slow and have a rope set for back up with no tension so I can feel what's going on.

 

[thepheniox]

Here's a few photos of an adjustable friction saver set up on the ground before spiking up a tree. It's my maple in the front yard so I was just using it for the photos no spiking. As long as this set up has weight in it, it won't fall down the trunk or even a pole. So if you are on a straight trunk you can decend then sit in your lanyard give this system some slack and it will come down to you. Reset it make your cut, repeat. Also if you had an accident you are ready to get out of the tree. To ascend the tree loosen your friction hitch on the climbing line and hold both your lanyard and this system and climb. If you slip out this will catch you unlike your lanyard. The trick is to keep the eyes the proper distance apart so as the trunk taper gets smaller you have to adjust it. Something I would suggest is to try it in controlled situations and see how it reacts to falls. Hopefully I explained it clearly.

 

[Kottonwood]

I haven't used spikes much since I just started climbing again. I have never felt real secure on them especially on HUGE pines we have here in Southern Louisiana. Well what is huge to me may not be to another :biggrin Anyway these pines I hate because you can be 80' feet or more up and no limbs for your lanyard grab hold. I would like to get better in this area because I will miss out on many removals if I don't. Anybody struggle with this? Any suggestions of videos? Any input would be appreciated!
Thanks, ClimbMIT

Are these trees huge or just tall? If they are tall or skinny I like to double wrap my lanyard. To make this easier flush cut every branch. Also sometimes it's better to use pole spikes on the skinny ones. I personally always use tree spikes but I can see why some people switch.

 

[ClimbMIT]

Here's a few photos of an adjustable friction saver set up on the ground before spiking up a tree. It's my maple in the front yard so I was just using it for the photos no spiking. As long as this set up has weight in it, it won't fall down the trunk or even a pole. So if you are on a straight trunk you can decend then sit in your lanyard give this system some slack and it will come down to you. Reset it make your cut, repeat. Also if you had an accident you are ready to get out of the tree. To ascend the tree loosen your friction hitch on the climbing line and hold both your lanyard and this system and climb. If you slip out this will catch you unlike your lanyard. The trick is to keep the eyes the proper distance apart so as the trunk taper gets smaller you have to adjust it. Something I would suggest is to try it in controlled situations and see how it reacts to falls. Hopefully I explained it clearly.

That is sweet! That must be homemade. I am going to make one myself. Thanks!

 

[Nailsbeats]

You need to maintain a 30 degree angle between your lower leg and the tree to keep the spikes dug in as they should be. Also, make sure the spikes are sharp, dull ones won't grab well consistently and give you an uncomfortable feeling.

To climb well you need to be able to put your body in different positions, sometimes leaning into the tree, sometimes out. Keep that leg angle in mind and you'll be fine, granted the spikes are sharp.

 

[Fireaxman]

Lot of debate on spikes. I like my Tree gaffs, but they do stick pretty deep in the Loblollies if i have to stand in one spot for a while. Then sometimes I have to work at it a little to get them pulled. Never tried pole gaffs, but it might be nice to have a pair.

Someone posted some nice little exercises on here about a year ago I think to help people get familiar with their gaffs. Something about up a little, down a little, around the trunk, start your saw, .... exercising at low level to feel more comfortable on the job.

CimbMIT, ya wanna drive across the lake? I've got a pine I will be taking down this winter we can spur around in if you want. Got most of the SRT and DdRT stuff too you can take a look at. PM me if you are interested. Madisonville.

Comfortable boots and pads made the big difference for me. That and just enough cut-outs to realize they are very rarely fatal (are they ever fatal?), confidence that the spur really will grab something just a few inches further down the tree. The guys that have died falling off of spurs around here have died for flipline errors, not cutouts. Flipped over the top of the spar, did not have the snap properly connected to the saddle, or let the lanyard wear too thin. Most a cut-out ever cost me was a skinned up nose.

 

[ClimbMIT]

Well finally got some tree spikes and played around with them today. I climbed about a 60' pine in my front yard. I didn't gaff out once! I also made an adjustable lanyard with a piece of bluestreak, tenex eye to eye prussic, and micro pulley which worked really well. I am going to take some pics of my set up and post it soon. Tomorrow I am going to try using the RW and pantin to ascend so I can't cut a few more limbs. Thanks to all for your responses!

 

[Fireaxman]

Did you get to that job in Abita Springs yet? I finished 6 of the Water Oaks in Madisonville, but I still have one to go. Got distracted with some other projects. If you go after those pines in Abita let me know. I'll bring over some SRT stuff and let you play.

 

[ClimbMIT]

That would be great! I don't know if I will get that job because the owner is having some financial difficulties. I have your number and I still would like climb with you. I just have to plan my plan and work it. I tend to deviate allot since I am working for myself.Lol! Freedom? uh, kinda. Anyway, If I know I will be up your way I will call you. If you are coming out here in Slidell give me a ring. I will call you back this time Up in one of my pines today with the RW worked pretty good until I got about 3' off the ground and my vt locked up on me and I began to curse while others laughed. LMAO now! Arborplex has way too much elongation for SRT/RW.

 

[Fireaxman]

You on Arborplex? Oh Man, that stuff will work you to Exhaustion!

How do I know? Old climber that taught me to climb loved it and swore by it, talked me into buying several hundred feet of it. Needed to remember this old guy climbed on Hemp, for him Arborplex was a big improvement.

Modern ropes (Ivy, Blaze, Tachyon, etc.) are about as big an improvement over Arborplex as Arborplex was over Hemp!

Now, I only use the Arborplex for rigging.

 

[ClimbMIT]

I hate it. I am going to buy Poison Hivy with my next check

 

[arborjockey]

I owned spurs before I owned a saddle. I used to throw them on and climb the fir trees (140's) behind my house. Maybe that's it....... loose the saddle fore a couple of weeks. Your comfort level in the spikes will rocket.:jester: bury a small pecker pole (40') with no limbs in the back yard and run up and down that thing 100 times a day.

 

[ClimbMIT]

I owned spurs before I owned a saddle. I used to throw them on and climb the fir trees (140's) behind my house. Maybe that's it....... loose the saddle fore a couple of weeks. Your comfort level in the spikes will rocket.:jester: bury a small pecker pole (40') with no limbs in the back yard and run up and down that thing 100 times a day.

A small pecker pole eh! That is an interesting word. :big grin! Anyway I will take the climbing part in consideration

 

[ClimbMIT]

You on Arborplex? Oh Man, that stuff will work you to Exhaustion!

How do I know? Old climber that taught me to climb loved it and swore by it, talked me into buying several hundred feet of it. Needed to remember this old guy climbed on Hemp, for him Arborplex was a big improvement.

Modern ropes (Ivy, Blaze, Tachyon, etc.) are about as big an improvement over Arborplex as Arborplex was over Hemp!

Now, I only use the Arborplex for rigging.

Ordered Poison Hivy today. Can't wait once I have made up my mind. I got 120' hank. I really wanted to get 200' but I can still just put a choker up in the TIP of most trees and ascend if I need to. Also connect another line if I want to anchor at the base,

 

[Iustinian]

200' is a waste of money unless your in a lot of 100' trees. Otherwise, unless you're using a Rope Guide, you're just pulling all that extra standing part of your rope over branches everytime you cross over. I have 6 climb lines, all different lengths, and the shortest one that will get the job done will make for the fastest climb. rope guide helps for that tho

 

[ClimbMIT]

200' is a waste of money unless your in a lot of 100' trees. Otherwise, unless you're using a Rope Guide, you're just pulling all that extra standing part of your rope over branches everytime you cross over. I have 6 climb lines, all different lengths, and the shortest one that will get the job done will make for the fastest climb. rope guide helps for that tho

Makes sense about the extra tail. One question though, what is a rope guide?

 

[Fireaxman]

200' is a waste of money unless your in a lot of 100' trees. Otherwise, unless you're using a Rope Guide, you're just pulling all that extra standing part of your rope over branches everytime you cross over. I have 6 climb lines, all different lengths, and the shortest one that will get the job done will make for the fastest climb. rope guide helps for that tho

We ARE in a lot of 100 foot trees. Typical climbs for dead wooding mature Loblollie and Slash Pine are at least 80 feet, and 110 feet is not unusual. One tree I maintain is 125 feet. I never buy anything less than 200 feet. I also climb a lot DdRT on the height adjustable false crotch tied at the base of the tree and leave 100 feet of rope at the base so that a non-climber can lower me all the way to the ground if necessary without having to pass a knot, which means I often have 400 feet of rope dedicated to the job.

Couple more reasons why I buy the long ropes - I use the tail with a Blakes to advance my tie in point. The Blakes glazes the tail, so occasionaly I have to "Slip" a few feet off the end to remove the glazed end. My rope also occasionally brushes the chain on the 200T where it hangs on my saw lanyard, picking a few starnds and making it necessary for me to slip even more rope off my 200 foot hank. I fully agree "... the shortest one that will get the job done will make for the fastest climb" but I BUY 200 foot and end up with plenty of shorter lengths to choose from as needed for lower work and "Spider" lines.

I dont often pull the extra standing part over branches. I secure with my lanyard, Spider, or Tail and pass my split tail and tie-in point around branches as necessary.

View attachment 225656