James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank you sir.
Upgrades to Echo CS-590
- Thread starter JackJ
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ColoForester
ArboristSite Lurker
Anyone have a link to the comment/thread for the limited cap removal. Can’t seem to find it searching. They are on the chopping block this weekend.
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James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just used a drywall screw. Turn the limiter as far counterclockwise as it will go twist the screw in and pull. It should pop right out.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
One of my videos maid it into that thread. Figured it would get lost on YouTube after the guy watched it.
That must be a hurtin’ saw!
8 pages of upgrades required!
8 pages of upgrades required!
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Still take a 590 over any 60cc Stihl maid after the 036 
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I wouldn’t. But it is darn good for a cheap saw.
My oe ms362 feels nicer in the hands, has as much or more torque, more on top (it has a “top”), and lightning throttle response. Lightning.
But it cost nearly twice as much..
But it cost nearly twice as much..
Echo themselves are not delusional about their saw. They market it as a farm/ranch/firewood saw, where it is top of the class, imo.
That’s why I bought mine.
I dropped a couple of 24” snags about a week ago. One of them set back and trapped my Echo and then made a big crack noise. I left the scene hurriedly as the very dead tree went the wrong way. As I was moving away without my saw I said to myself “oh well, if it gets smashed it’s just my Echo”.
Thankfully nobody got hurt. Me and the saw are just fine. Completely unscathed.
That’s why I bought mine.
I dropped a couple of 24” snags about a week ago. One of them set back and trapped my Echo and then made a big crack noise. I left the scene hurriedly as the very dead tree went the wrong way. As I was moving away without my saw I said to myself “oh well, if it gets smashed it’s just my Echo”.
Thankfully nobody got hurt. Me and the saw are just fine. Completely unscathed.
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
Maybe paint the air filter cover black? Yeah! that's what I'd do!
CRTurboGuy
New Member
randy hines
Kodiak
Good response
eye.heart.trees
arborjunky
Am also very curious whether this worked, I've been watching Youtuber "tinman saws" who, this year, has a 590 he's working through (basically doing a 590-to-620 mod, or "ported and fully modded 620" transition from a 590)
I figured to echo (heh, bad pun) @CRTurboGuy 's inquiry here since I had a couple 590-questions and figure to continue here instead of starting-anew.... Figure I may as well just bullet-point, any&all help on this would be great am still going-through this thread & the '16 thread 'echo 590 tuning' but hoping to find a newer mega-thread...anyway:
- full handlebars: Smarter to fab your own (if you're capable & confident in such things, obviously) or modify from a 620's?
- Do all the common/shared parts between the 590 and 620 tend to share part #'s? Perhaps more importantly, where would you guys recommend if someone's going to buy parts over time like a carb now, a coil later etc?
- anyone have OEM "tech manual" URL's for the 590, like for doing tear-downs, containing exploded-diagrams etc? I've got the basic manual which of course isn't of any real value
- ANY url's for "mega-type" 590 threads that are a bit newer would be greatly appreciated, as would ANY youtubers who you think are credible enough and have 590 or 620 content!
Thanks a ton for anything on any of those, would be greatly appreciated!! Mine's hardly used yet, I'd been under a (seemingly) false impression "echo's come lean", so was afraid to put real load onto my new unit, because I THOUGHT the limiters were preventing sufficient CCW turning for fuel on H.....then, before tuning / using mine any further, I find multiple sentiments that the best setting for H is under 1 turn ccw from fully buried.....I have a tach, but it never seems solid/accurate enough when doing full "under load WOT" tests, seems these cheap digi units just gyrate between 1-3 rpm values that they sense during that period, IE not accurate at all...really need to get a new, good-quality tach (and a compression gauge.....does compression *rise* over time if your saw is taken care of?)
Again thanks a ton for any insight/guidance towards resources, am stoked to have been able to get to the 4HP threshold for just $400, even the 620 - which IMO is a great deal - is far less of a deal than the 590 (it's 10% stronger at 4.4HP, for like 33% more price...) but that seems to be the market sadly, the moment saws are over the 40-60cc mark they start upping the "price per CC" or price per HP, which makes no sense to me you'd think it would be the exact opposite...But since the 590 was a solid "HP/$" powerhead, and the 620 parts can be added over time, I'm loving the idea of learning/working-on the saw over time slowly modding, ultimately a stock 590 to a custom 620
A full wrap from a CS-620PW will fit the CS-590/600's without modifications.
Go to the IPL's when you get a moment and look at the parts used on the CS-620 vs the CS-590. The engine, for example has different part numbers for the piston, crank, cylinder, muffler, carb, coil, etc.
You will also find that early CS-600's used different P/C's than the later 600's. It appears that at some point the 590's/600's share the same P/C where earlier 600's used different parts.
The CS-590 uses a different coil than the CS-620 and it is limited. Not really a big deal as the cut-in point is high enough you woln't really notice it.
I own all three, CS-590, CS-600 and a CS-620PW. My 600 is an early model with an unlimited coil and different P/C than later versions. I did some timed cutting with it and it was just a tad stronger than my Husqvarna 262XP which really surprised me at that time. My CS-620PW is a later X-series version. All of mine are stock aside from removing limiter caps, modifying the deflector on the muffler and sealing up the air filter to the carb a little better than the factory did.
I see no need to modify a CS-590 in any way otherwise as they have good power for the CC's and run close enough to a CS-620 anyhow. I have a LOT of time on my CS-590 at this point. I use it a lot in larger logs to cross-cut the pieces to make them easier to handle. All of the cross-cutting done below in the huge Maple and Beech tree in the pics was done with the CS-590. It never grumbled once and I never found myself wanting more power from it............Cliff
Go to the IPL's when you get a moment and look at the parts used on the CS-620 vs the CS-590. The engine, for example has different part numbers for the piston, crank, cylinder, muffler, carb, coil, etc.
You will also find that early CS-600's used different P/C's than the later 600's. It appears that at some point the 590's/600's share the same P/C where earlier 600's used different parts.
The CS-590 uses a different coil than the CS-620 and it is limited. Not really a big deal as the cut-in point is high enough you woln't really notice it.
I own all three, CS-590, CS-600 and a CS-620PW. My 600 is an early model with an unlimited coil and different P/C than later versions. I did some timed cutting with it and it was just a tad stronger than my Husqvarna 262XP which really surprised me at that time. My CS-620PW is a later X-series version. All of mine are stock aside from removing limiter caps, modifying the deflector on the muffler and sealing up the air filter to the carb a little better than the factory did.
I see no need to modify a CS-590 in any way otherwise as they have good power for the CC's and run close enough to a CS-620 anyhow. I have a LOT of time on my CS-590 at this point. I use it a lot in larger logs to cross-cut the pieces to make them easier to handle. All of the cross-cutting done below in the huge Maple and Beech tree in the pics was done with the CS-590. It never grumbled once and I never found myself wanting more power from it............Cliff
fordf150
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
only real differences between the 590 and 620 are....carb(620 is bigger venturi), coil(620 is unlimited), and piston/cylinder(different port timing). there are other differences but they are mainly cosmetic
everything from a 590 will bolt on a 620 and vice versa.
IMHO the only part of a 620 that is worth putting on a 590 is the clutch drum....590 is a spur($55) and 620 is rim($55).
carb and coil will give a very slight boost in power but at $80 each its not worth it. however if your 590 is blown up then the 620 cylinder becomes the only way to go since it is only like $5 more
everything from a 590 will bolt on a 620 and vice versa.
IMHO the only part of a 620 that is worth putting on a 590 is the clutch drum....590 is a spur($55) and 620 is rim($55).
carb and coil will give a very slight boost in power but at $80 each its not worth it. however if your 590 is blown up then the 620 cylinder becomes the only way to go since it is only like $5 more
I'm with Ford150, the carb would be a waist of money and you can tune it in the wood with the limited coil. If I was just doing simple mods I'd, pull the limiters, replace the fixed main jet with one from a 199 or just close the hole on the top of the jet with some JB Weld so that it's fully adjustable, do a muffler mod and do a base gasket delete if the squish will allow it.
NEVER for any reason use JB Weld in a situation where you have gasoline involved.
The CS-590 really does't need any help to be a great saw with plenty of power. The best mod mentioned is to upgrade the clutch for rim sprockets. If you are trying to make a CS-620 out of it just bypass it in the first place and buy a CS-620. They can still be had for around $550 or so NIB with free shipping. CS-590's have creeped up to around $400 so saving $150 or so then buying a $55 clutch, real bar (the stock one is cheaper/laminated), carburetor, unlimited coil, etc you are well past the cost of the CS-620 for sure.
I've not tuned one yet where the coil upgrade would help anyplace as the "cut-in" point is far enough above the full load cutting RPM it's never noticed. I've also never ran into one yet that was rich and needed leaned up. Without exception every single one that's came thru the shop here has been lean enough to just about smoke the P/C if we didn't fatten them up some.......FWIW.......
The CS-590 really does't need any help to be a great saw with plenty of power. The best mod mentioned is to upgrade the clutch for rim sprockets. If you are trying to make a CS-620 out of it just bypass it in the first place and buy a CS-620. They can still be had for around $550 or so NIB with free shipping. CS-590's have creeped up to around $400 so saving $150 or so then buying a $55 clutch, real bar (the stock one is cheaper/laminated), carburetor, unlimited coil, etc you are well past the cost of the CS-620 for sure.
I've not tuned one yet where the coil upgrade would help anyplace as the "cut-in" point is far enough above the full load cutting RPM it's never noticed. I've also never ran into one yet that was rich and needed leaned up. Without exception every single one that's came thru the shop here has been lean enough to just about smoke the P/C if we didn't fatten them up some.......FWIW.......
If you can use it to raise the intake floor why wouldn't it work for closing the top hole in the main jet?
My 600p
Attachments
It is not fuel compatible. 100 percent of the carburetors I get in to rebuild where it has been used to seal up bottom plugs fail a pressure test. It will NOT stay attached, gets "soft" in contact with fuel and fuel leaks right past it......
