I didn't know that, thanks. I just did that until my jet came in but have been lazy and haven't changed it out yet.
Upgrades to Echo CS-590
- Thread starter JackJ
- Start date
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A lot of folks don't realize but it sure steers a lot of work in my direction so I'm glad they keep purchasing that product for those types of repairs!.....
eye.heart.trees
arborjunky
There is pretty unanimous sentiment the 590's are shipped rich not lean...from plenty of people on *********, from tinman on youtube, not only that they're generally set a bit fat but also that you cannot over-lean even if you tried, even if you seated the H screw there is a bypass valve that lets fuel in (according to aforementioned people, my new 590 is barely on tank #3 and only read 91-92psi so I'm still just putting gas through it and doing occasional "cut times" benchmarking....its compression was so low it was notably easier to pull than my 355t..)
Curious your thoughts, do you live somewhere high altitude or otherwise anomalous by chance?
wisme.jonat
ArboristSite Lurker
Is there pictures of this… the 372
Doesn’t exactly fit…
Any help that would be awesome!
"Curious your thoughts, do you live somewhere high altitude or otherwise anomalous by chance?"
The only Echo saws that I've seen that aren't lean right out of the box have been the CS-620P/PW's. They are much closer to a good tune than most others but I still remove the limiter caps before running them so I can fine tune if/as needed.
I don't really pay much attention to what others are doing with these saws. When we purchase one or one comes in here to the shop it gets a minor muffler mod (opening up the deflector) and limiter caps removed before we run it. I top them off with fresh fuel/oil mix and off to the woodpile to make some cuts. The "L" screw is fine tuned first, after I get some heat in the saw by letting it run a few minutes. Most Echo saws are lean there as well and don't want to take the throttle well until they are well heat-soaked. So I usually have to come back and re-address the "L" speed screws after we've made a few cuts with it.
Many Echo saws will have rev-limited or timing-retard coils which can make them appear overly rich on the "H" speed screw and a bit difficult to tune at the same time. This may be why many folks with the CS-590 think they are rich right out of the box. I add fuel with the "H" speed screw until I know for sure we're "four stroking" from a rich setting vs hitting the rev-limiting feature in the coil. At that point I start leaning them up and making cuts until the tune is correct.
I personally own a CS-590, CS-600P (early model), and a CS-620PW "X" series. They are all really good saws, very well designed and easy to work on. Power is good for the CC's and not really a lot of difference between them. They are best suited for a 20" bar but pull the larger 24 and 27's with decent authority. I've even ran a skip-tooth 30" on the 600P a few times and it actually does pretty good with it in bigger wood.
The CS-590 is for sure quite a bargain in a 60cc saw and I've been trying to wear mine out or break it and it just keeps on getting it done. They laminated bar they show up with isn't all that great, mine wore out pretty quickly so I switched it over to a Husky bar 20" bar with 72 drive links which I have plenty of around here. The pics below shows a couple of larger trees we got into a few years back and ALL of it was cross-cut with the CS-590 to make the pieces smaller and more manageable to the splitter. It never grumbled once and they refuse to clog up cross-cutting, another really nice feature of that design........Cliff
The only Echo saws that I've seen that aren't lean right out of the box have been the CS-620P/PW's. They are much closer to a good tune than most others but I still remove the limiter caps before running them so I can fine tune if/as needed.
I don't really pay much attention to what others are doing with these saws. When we purchase one or one comes in here to the shop it gets a minor muffler mod (opening up the deflector) and limiter caps removed before we run it. I top them off with fresh fuel/oil mix and off to the woodpile to make some cuts. The "L" screw is fine tuned first, after I get some heat in the saw by letting it run a few minutes. Most Echo saws are lean there as well and don't want to take the throttle well until they are well heat-soaked. So I usually have to come back and re-address the "L" speed screws after we've made a few cuts with it.
Many Echo saws will have rev-limited or timing-retard coils which can make them appear overly rich on the "H" speed screw and a bit difficult to tune at the same time. This may be why many folks with the CS-590 think they are rich right out of the box. I add fuel with the "H" speed screw until I know for sure we're "four stroking" from a rich setting vs hitting the rev-limiting feature in the coil. At that point I start leaning them up and making cuts until the tune is correct.
I personally own a CS-590, CS-600P (early model), and a CS-620PW "X" series. They are all really good saws, very well designed and easy to work on. Power is good for the CC's and not really a lot of difference between them. They are best suited for a 20" bar but pull the larger 24 and 27's with decent authority. I've even ran a skip-tooth 30" on the 600P a few times and it actually does pretty good with it in bigger wood.
The CS-590 is for sure quite a bargain in a 60cc saw and I've been trying to wear mine out or break it and it just keeps on getting it done. They laminated bar they show up with isn't all that great, mine wore out pretty quickly so I switched it over to a Husky bar 20" bar with 72 drive links which I have plenty of around here. The pics below shows a couple of larger trees we got into a few years back and ALL of it was cross-cut with the CS-590 to make the pieces smaller and more manageable to the splitter. It never grumbled once and they refuse to clog up cross-cutting, another really nice feature of that design........Cliff
Did you put a full wrap on your echo, FS said he ran it or saw it run and it was a beast. Was there any issues in removing the bar and chain with the full wrap? The stock plastic handle is so flimsy, Thanks!
Merc1973
Newly infected with CAD
I bought a like new cs-590 display model because of this thread 5 years ago. Been a great saw. I immediately did the MM, removed red limit caps to retuned the carb. Love the loud popping exhaust. I use oregon LGX and EXL and it just pulls like a beast. I just ordered a 20" Oregon PowerCut bar to replace the cheap worn laminated bar to use with my 70 dl chains. I wouldnt mind having a longer bar like a 24" or longer with some skip chain though...
Im curoius about these ebay upgrades, anyone try these?
Im curoius about these ebay upgrades, anyone try these?
Attachments
Yea the felling spikes off ebay for around 20$ they work great. Only thing they don't include is a small screw to permanently mount it to the clutch cover.
Oh and just 1 oring for the filter, I found it on some FB page they told what size needed and went to hardware store for them like 20 cents a piece
Some before pics. They are a bit larger than the original and gines the saw a more aggressive look and definitely more bite
Merc1973
Newly infected with CAD
Looks great, thanks for the info Brufab!
Merc1973
Newly infected with CAD
Merc1973
Newly infected with CAD
Nice! Full chisel?
Yea I run Oregon chain. I tried a archer brand semi skip full chisle and I think it cut slower lol. I was doing test cuts on that red oak log. I have mounted a 34" bar on my echo with a 72lgx110g chain and it was cutting surprisingly good lol. There's a video in this thread of me cutting a stump with it.
