Water Heater Drain Pan Drain completely cloged

[Fried Chicken]

Replace that drain valve with a straight 3/4 ball valve so you can get access THROUGH the valve.
With both top shut offs closed and nothing else open to air water will come out of the heater so slowly you can do an element, drain valve or T&P valve replacement without draining the heater. ;^)
Milkstone remover found at the farm store is a VERY effective lime dissolver.

I'll do that tomorrow and check out Milkstone remover.
I have some phosphoric acid laying around for de-rusting tools, but I also have the 9% vinegar. I'm hesitant to use anything stronger as it might cause trouble with the lining in the water heater.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Most modern water heaters are 'glass' lined. You won't hurt it any more than the lime scale is...

 

[Fried Chicken]

Most modern water heaters are 'glass' lined. You won't hurt it any more than the lime scale is...

Interesting, I was wondering what they used for the liner. Regardless, there are still all the pipes valves and fittings. We'll see, I finally got the thing drained and tomorrow I can get a ball valve for it

 

[Sidecarflip]

All the box stores have them. You want a full port WOG valve (Water-Oil-Gas) with a stainless steel ball. Brand don't matter.

 

[gggGary]

Most modern water heaters are 'glass' lined. You won't hurt it any more than the lime scale is...

I didn't (re) research it but my recollection of water heater manufacturing is that the glass lining is done BEFORE the heater is welded together, why they always fail at the seams.

 

[Fried Chicken]

All the box stores have them. You want a full port WOG valve (Water-Oil-Gas) with a stainless steel ball. Brand don't matter.

Yeah I got one this morning and installed it. Now I need to figure out how to unclog the drain pan drain. Pneumatic pressure has it completely clogged, but I've now determined the clog is beyond where it makes a 90° turn downwards. If it's mud, stagnant water should dissolve it.

For some stupid ****-for-brains reason I didn't buy a drain snake even though I was looking at one. Now I regret it. I've only ever once regretted the purchase of a good tool, but all too often I've regretted not purchasing a good tool.

 

[davidprivett]

there are water heaters that claim they have a swirl feature that is supposed to keep the sediment from sitting in the bottom, I guess as you use the hot water is swirls the bottom keeping some of the sediment suspended in water allowing it to be flushed out threw the faucets. I have a Rudd and it seems to work better than not having that feature, as like the old water heater that got replaced (GE). but I still drain off a coupla gallons monthly and check for solids.

 

[Fried Chicken]

Well I got the drain snake stuck

 

[Fried Chicken]

I don't like any of this.

The drain snake is properly stuck. Tried turning it in reverse and forward and reverse, but eventually it got kinked up and broke at the spinner guy. Now I have this piece of steel wire sticking out of the pipe about 3 feet, but still can't do anything with it; about 15 feet is still in the pipe.

On the bright side: I think I found the outlet and it *might* be a straight shot to the end. It's on the whole other side of the house which makes no sense (the drain pipe crossing 3/4 of the house. It might be easier to clear the clog and go from the other end with another drain snake.

I'm counting my blessings I learned this lesson on an unimportant drain that didn't work anyway.

 

[dwaugh]

Our water is not too hard, but I have occasionally drained off some sediment from the bottom of the tank. Never replaced an anode. Not sure if it's true but I always figured the chance of something going wrong like some threads stripping or something breaking was high enough that I was better off leaving it alone and waiting until it failed. I'm usually a big preventative maintenance type of person but sometimes I worry about the unintended consequences. I suppose if I was disciplined enough to really stay on top of it there would be less chance of things seizing.

Good luck on getting the snake out! Sounds like the pipes are not exposed so that's a bummer.

 

[Fried Chicken]

Hallelujah. HALLELUJAH! I got it sorted.

I was wrong about the drain pipe exit, it was sitting exactly where it should have been, just the grass had completely covered it.

The drain snake had hit the root system so hard it was basically impossible to get out. I had convinced myself it had twisted itself into a knot, was trying all sorts of insane **** with vice pliers and whatnot, it turns out that was completely unnecessary.

Once the water heater was flushing cleanly I used the hose shoved it up the outside drain pipe. Turned the water on full blast, and to my amazement, the water started coming out into the water heater basin; The clog was clear!

Once I managed that I could pull the drain snake out.

Beware anyone using a drain snake, it's not a trivial matter to use one of these, and if you **** up, you can be in for one HELL of a rude awakening. It takes skill to use one properly, and a good plumber will have that skill and know what to do. Not saying don't use it, just don't be an idiot and stick it on a drill at full speed thinking it'll just do its magic.

Our water is not too hard, but I have occasionally drained off some sediment from the bottom of the tank. Never replaced an anode. Not sure if it's true but I always figured the chance of something going wrong like some threads stripping or something breaking was high enough that I was better off leaving it alone and waiting until it failed. I'm usually a big preventative maintenance type of person but sometimes I worry about the unintended consequences. I suppose if I was disciplined enough to really stay on top of it there would be less chance of things seizing.

I get that line of thinking, but I've learned it's never a good idea to get intimidated by a job. Dig in hard, go deep, you'll figure it out along the way, and then you'll get it sorted how you like it.



ALL of this said... I think my water heater might have a leak in it, and it's even possible I caused it. Obviously I hope not... but I'll have to investigate.

 

[dwaugh]

I get that line of thinking, but I've learned it's never a good idea to get intimidated by a job. Dig in hard, go deep, you'll figure it out along the way, and then you'll get it sorted how you like it.

I get it, I've charged right into stuff and had it work out great, and I've charged right into stuff and made a bigger mess. As I get older, and especially with plumbing in critical applications, I have become more cautious on what I tackle. Maybe being more cautious is the wrong word, but my calculus has changed so that I plan, or am prepared, for the worst case scenario and if I think I can deal with it or tackle it I go ahead. It's not always PVC, you can be in a 2' crawlspace with a dirt floor and find the cast-iron pipe with a non obtainable geometry joint that was only held together with wax from a toilet flange going into a crushed lead pipe under a space too narrow to crawl under.

 

[pdqdl]

Our water is not too hard, but I have occasionally drained off some sediment from the bottom of the tank. Never replaced an anode. Not sure if it's true but I always figured the chance of something going wrong like some threads stripping or something breaking was high enough that I was better off leaving it alone and waiting until it failed. I'm usually a big preventative maintenance type of person but sometimes I worry about the unintended consequences. I suppose if I was disciplined enough to really stay on top of it there would be less chance of things seizing.

Good luck on getting the snake out! Sounds like the pipes are not exposed so that's a bummer.

No, when you replace the anode regularly, almost nothing else corrodes. The purpose of the anode is to take the corrosion in one place, protecting the rest of the water heater.

They are so important, all (well managed) ocean-going vessels keep them replaced regularly.

 

[dwaugh]

No, you replace the anode regularly, almost nothing else corrodes. The purpose of the anode is to take the corrosion in one place, protecting the rest of the water heater.

That's what you should do, I was pointing out my flaws.

 

[pdqdl]

 

[Fried Chicken]

That's what you should do, I was pointing out my flaws.

No you don't understand. This isn't a "you should do this" in the same way you should flush your water heater every year or turn your plumbing valves every year.

This is more like... replacing a tip on a TIG welder lol.. just on a 5 year lifecycle...

You can alternatively install an electric anode.... electrochemically it does the same thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Corro-ProtecTM-Eliminates-Corrosion-Limescale-Electrical/dp/B01H459TAK

 

[Fried Chicken]

Here's a picture of the old anode and the new anode for the small mini hot water heater that was showing signs of rust.

 

[Fried Chicken]

ALL of this said... I think my water heater might have a leak in it, and it's even possible I caused it. Obviously I hope not... but I'll have to investigate.

Everything worked out perfectly.

Thanks for the help; it was very helpful.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

Man, what a rollercoaster of suspense and anxiety. With a happy ending! Better than anything on Netflix.

 

[Fried Chicken]

I just went to flush the final water heater, went in, hooked up all my gadgetry.... no sediment came out at all...

[update]

Put vinegar all day, agitated with my pressure contraption... jack **** for sediment came out.

Either it's still up their lurking terrorizing me, waiting to strike at a moment's notice, or this water heater (relatively new: 2019 with anodes replaced on time) has very little or no sediment.

It will be difficult, but I think I will have to live with simply not knowing, b/c I'm not inclined to open the unit up again, fiddle with the borescope, and check.

[update2]

I'll be damned. The exact water heater I have:
https://www.rheem.com/product/rheem-professional-classic-series-atmospheric-prog50-38n-rh60/

In the fine print this text:

EverKleen™ patented system fights sediment build-up

Apparently it swirls the incoming water in such a way that sediments get stirred up and never form.

It looks like it actually worked exactly as intended. The water heater has a production date of 2019, so relatively new. I made a note when I replaced the anode last year, so at max 4 years old, that it had about 70% life left. Rheem claims their anodes last longer.

I'll be damned. Legit it's like water heaters have been perfected, just in time for everyone to switch to something else.

Also apparently it's now against code to put a water heater in the attic b/c in the event of a house fire it can fall on the firefighters heads. I'm dubious; I think the attic is the best place to put them (hot as balls in summer - barely has to run).

For those who stuck around this far, congrats on your newfound water heater knowledge.