I think that you mean to say that you want r to be as small as possible (if I read it right), in relation to the perpendicular distance of the crank rod bearing relative to the piston movement. In which case, a smaller amount of rope and the piston frozen near TDC would allow for more torque on the bolt to remove the clutch and flywheel without bending the piston rod in the process.
In other words, the position of the crank does make a huge differnce. The leverage of the arm of the crank will be far less with the piston at or near TDC (or BDC), compared to when the crank is 90 degrees from TDC. At a full right angle, the force from the crank on the connecting rod will be at its potential maximum due to the leverage of the crank relative to the piston rod. All of the force from the crank at 90 degrees is parallel to the piston movement. Nearer to TDC, less and less force is going 'up' to compress the rod, as compared to when it is at 90 degrees. All the force from the crank at TDC is perpendicular to the piston travel (meaning at TDC, there is no force being exerted on the rod to compress it if you wrench on the crankshaft).
And that would seem to verify why I have never bent a rod in a 1123 type saw, even using my foot and full leg strength on a scrench to remove a clutch. I had one beer too many on that one, and pushed it the wrong way with all my weight. That one had a rag strip stuffed in through the exhaust port, and just enough to keep the piston from clearing TDC. Once I realized my mistake (after having another beer) I reversed the scrench and the clutch popped right off. That 210 is still running fine.